Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Correct FCR?

Recommended Posts

Hello all, I'm currently arranging to buy a fcr 39mm carb. Everything looks good about it, but my question is just because I'm told its an "fcr 39mm" how do I know its the right one of my drz? I know pictures are worth a thousand words so here it is.

fcrcarb003.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is this something I can buy separate? The google machine shows it as just a piece of pipe thats tapered on one end.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

"intake bell" is the part of the carb where the air enters. I can't tell if it is removable or not from the pix. This looks like a old Yamaha carb. Probably not a good investment.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This FCR is off an 03 KLX 400R the intake bell is built on, not added like on the MX FCR. "It fits without it."

Same Fcr are all the older DRZ and KLX's are running.

I have a Fcr on my klx400 but my drz has a MX FCR which has a removable intake bell.

Will not preform like a brand new MX FCR 39mm but it is a FCR for a klx/drz.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
This FCR is off an 03 KLX 400R the intake bell is built on

negative,that is a yamaha carb. that doesnt mean the carb is bad but it definately not a E model fcr. in order to use the carb you neeed a E model air boot.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Normally works out just as much trying to get it to work.. Just buy a right one in first place :-)

Words to live by!!! I found out the hard way!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It will work just great! I have one that is almost identical. TPS won't work. You will have to stretch the intake boot and tighten the clamps to get everything to hold. Make sure its on straight. I grinded some of the throttle cover off to get it not to rub the frame and moved the black oil tank outward to give the carb more room. I recommend using only the pull throttle cable or buying yamaha cables but I don't know about the length.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By Bignerd0100100
      Hey all, 
      I'm looking at buying a 2004 Suzuki DRZ400EK or at least I think it's an EK according to Vin lookup websites, but it does not appear to have a kickstarter. I was told the bike was owned by a motorcycle dealer and that it has a current green sticker, and a California license plate but has not been registered for the streets since 2011. I want this as a dual sport but am not clear if the fact that it already has a plate means I am good to register it or if maybe they took away the ability to register it after it was plated, California loves to do that kind of stuff. Since the bike was owned by a dealer I would think they were up on the latest regulations in California, but who knows. Can anyone add any insight as to what I should look for on the bike itself like the carburetor, model numbers etc? Or do I just try my luck at the DMV?
    • By smokey9lives
      Hi,
      I have a 2003 DRZ (actually a KLX400) and the head tube bearings are shot.  I ordered a new set to install but I'm wondering if anyone has any recommendations on other parts I should replace while I have the front disassembled.  I was thinking about new rubber fork protectors, but are there other things that wear out on the DRZ front ends that you can only get to when disassambled?
      I also broke off a replacement key that I got for the steering lock.  I must have been made of cheap pot-metal.  Should I just remove the whole lock mechanism?
      Any tips or tricks for getting the old bearings out and the new ones in would be welcome!
      Thanks!
    • By antonyp
      Hey Guys,
      I recently bought a 2003 DRZ400S and thought it would be a good idea to check the valves clearance etc . I timed the engine on TDC with the magneto mark aligned as per the manual but I find the cam timing slightly odd. The arrows pointing upward are on the 1st and 15th pin as they should but with the magneto timing mark aligned they are not perfectly straight. Same goes for the arrows that should be parallel to the cylinder head casing. Is this normal or should they be absolutely perfect ?
       

×