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Ripped off!!

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So I just got my 250 back from the local shop. I had to get the top end redone and replace two cracked case halves. One tank of gas in...after breaking it in...I notice it isn't shifting past 2nd very well, ( I thought it was a clutch adjustment), and it seemed to lack any top end, which I attributed to jetting.

Then I noticed a bulge that lead to a crack in my crankcase right behind my water-pump. I then went to kick it over and the tranny seems hooped. I guess they must have put the bottom end back together incorrectly, or didn't follow a correct procedure. Damn!! So now I have a fight on my hands...I know they will try and blame me, as this is gonna cost them more than just labor, but a case half as well. Plus: I'm not even sure they will do it properly this time.

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Same thing happened to me didnt tighten a bolt good enough and it pushed through the right case cover. Its an easy fix if im thinkin its the same bolt, dont have to split the cases just take off the right side cover. I jb welded mine on the trail and it has held for years. Ether way the shop better fix it since their mistake.

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I seen this happen a lot on a fresh rebuild from beginner engine builders especially. The bolt your referring to goes to the primary gear on the right side that bolts directly to the crank. It will come loose and back its way out until it makes contact with the case and causes it to crack. I have a 05 YZ250 in my garage right now with the same issue but the bolt actually pulled all the threads out of the bolt hole in a brand new crank. Shop told him not their issue because bike sat for 3 months before he rode it after the rebuild.

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yup happens all the time.... from not torquing the primary drive bolt down correctly. I made the same mistake on my first engine rebuild and the bolt pushed right through the case. Alot better than paying the shop for labor though. I do all my own work on my bike, and thats a mistake I will never make again! Live and learn, and save some money along the way.

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yup happens all the time.... from not torquing the primary drive bolt down correctly.QUOTE]

And not loctitening with Red loctite as per the manual.

Correct but either way it wont do a bit of good if its not torqued to the correct level. Which the issue is on most Ive seen.

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I have a somewhat similar issue. I recently picked up a 02 yz 250 for 800 bucks because the previous owner thought he had a very serious issue. Basically he rebuilt his motor and rode it about 3 or 4 times and the "transmission started slipping". I thought to myself it was probably I clutch so I gambled my 800 bucks on the bike. I tore it apart after I got home and sure enough its got a brand new crank and top end. As far as his transmission issue, he installed the primary drive gear on the crank backwards and it did not make good contact with the clutch basket. It stripped out the teeth on the crank gear and that's why he thought the "transmission was slipping. I spent 25 bucks on the gear to fix the motor and another 100 to fix other things on the bike. So basically I got a bike with a brand new motor for under 1000 dollars.

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I bought an 03 with the exact same problem for 600. Backwards crank gear. Hit Ebay for used parts and sold it for 1600. I got to keep the extra wheels, pipes, rad valve for my 05.

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per the advice of a buddy, who's done a number of rebuilds and is a diesel / bike mechanic..blue loctite on all bolts inside the case.

Blue for smaller bolts red for the bigger ones:thumbsup:

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Frustrating... I watched my dad deal with the same thing on two bikes as a kid. I learned to work on my own stuff as a result.

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Ok about themain bolts, i never heard of this locktite stuff and i had to take off the main bolt to change clutch plates. i basically made the main bolt as hard as i could turn a bolt (pretty friggen hard) Basically how long would it take to crack through the case?

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yup happens all the time.... from not torquing the primary drive bolt down correctly.QUOTE]

And not loctitening with Red loctite as per the manual.

Well in my manuals for both my YZ's it does not say to use Red loctite or any loctite

Ok about themain bolts, i never heard of this locktite stuff and i had to take off the main bolt to change clutch plates. i basically made the main bolt as hard as i could turn a bolt (pretty friggen hard) Basically how long would it take to crack through the case?

Loctite has been around forever, it basically bonds the threads together so they cant vibrate loose. If you use a torque wrench and but it to the correct torque you shouild not have a problem.

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Loctite has been around forever, it basically bonds the threads together so they cant vibrate loose. If you use a torque wrench and but it to the correct torque you shouild not have a problem.

Well no i didnt but i made it Verrry tight how longdo you think it wouldtake to come loose?

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My manual also shows no LockTite on this bolt.

As for blue = small bolts, red = big, no. Blue is medium strenght, servicable LockTite. Red is high stength and requires the parts to be heated before disassembly. Nothing to due with fastener size, only their application and requirements.

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