D606 VS Kenda Trakmaster

Has anyone tried both the Kenda Trakmaster rear and Dunlop D606 rear?

Which one do you prefer and why?


I took everyones advice and put on a 606 for my trip to baja, but I am going back to Trakmaster. Maybe its just that the 606 is pretty worn out now, but I used trakmaster tires for years and was happy with them. Good priced tire, lasted as long as anything else and worked the way I wanted it to. I only got the 606 because it seemed like 90% of the people on here said to get that tire for the Baja.

I run Trackmasters on my dualsports, the DR400s is with a 120/100/18 rear and normal front. Comparing a lightly worn (80% left) rear Track with a 95% left 606 on an identical '07 400s, well, I won't be spending more for a 606 that doesn't work as well here in east TN. I tracktored up what they were spinning on. It simply chugged through the mud where they were sending up rooster tails and walking it, etc. If you want to slip and slide and throw mud, the 606 rocks! You can't do that with the Kenda. it just hooks up and goes... even when I had the front brake locked and as leaning over the handlebars in nice muddy muck, it just pushed the front wheel along and went. lol

I dont run either of them, but have ridden many bikes (including several drz's) with each of them. I find the trackmaster slides weird, but the 606 has slightly less absolute traction in snotty stuff. They last about equally well and the trackmaster is cheaper.

The wider knobs of the 606 make it more of a 80/20 tire, they perform pretty good until it becomes dry slick... then they will drift... the TM's I find are similar to the old 756 and is closer to a 90/10 tire. Some don't like the TM front....but I've had no issues with it.

D606(rear), better on road. offroad, di$appointed.

K-760(rear), way better offroad, on road disappointment, wears fast.

K-760, my choice, since i ride way more offroad.


I've had both and prefer the Trakmaster II. Works better off road and good enough on road.

i run a trckmaster on my offrd bike and love it. ive never run on road but i think it would wear real fast...

I ran Trakmasters on my DRZ in the past. I've since switched to a more streetable tire(Shinko 244) since I was riding a lot more street than off road-which was killing the Trakmasters. I plan to go back to the Trakmasters once these Shinko's wear out.

DRZ400 - I prefer the TM over the 606. I always found the back end to wallow around too much with the 606, especially in the sand. :thumbsup:

With that said, since I switched to the Pirelli MT-43 I will probably never go back to either of them. :confused:


I'm running 606's front and back on my dirt converted SM. I am new to dirt riding so I don't have any other experience, but they seemed to hook up just fine. Trail conditions were mostly damp and muddy in places. I didn't have much trouble with them, other than they didn't seem as sure-footed as I would have liked in the mud.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By BikeChimp
      I'd like to turn my UK 2004 DRZ400S back to stock airbox (snorkel) and jets, needle shim position etc
      When I bought it the PO had fitted a Sigma6 kit and done the 3x3 mod but is doesn't have a tapered needle like the JD and other kits. Took me ages to get it running right, however it still runs rich and I'm fed up of arsing around with it. 
      So I've bought a standard airbox without 3x3 hole, stock exhaust.
      Q1 The Suzuki manual says this Mukuni BSR36 (29FA) carb should have a 142.5 Main Jet but the Clymer manual say its a 135.  In UK everything's from sea level to 1000m. I'm in Sheffield so nothing gets above 500m even in the Peaks (Hills). Any UK owners or anyone else know what the correct jet should be?
      Q2 Says the original needle is a '5DH36-2nd'. The needle has 5 notches on it. Currently set at 2 clip from bottom. The Suzuki reference says needle is 5DH36-2nd, Does the 2nd bit mean 2nd from top or bottom?
      Q3 - Does anyone have a detailed photo of the shim order just in case it was assembled wrong. (mine is attached)
      I know most people on here are going to be horrified I'm taking back to stock but any help on above would be really appreciated.

    • By Bgringo
      I've read a lot of threads about this but still haven't found exactly what I'm looking for.  I'm pulling my 2004 DRZ400S out of storage sometime this week and getting it ready for the season.  I live at 9,000 ft, but my first ride of the year is probably going to be at around 5,000 ft.  I was going to pull the 145 main jet I'm running and put in the 150 adjusting the needle from the 2 clip to the 3rd, then re-jet once I got home.  I already have the extended fuel mixture screw in place so I started thinking that I should just run the 150 jet set up and adjust the fuel screw to compensate for the higher elevation where I'll be doing most of my riding.  I will be going down in elevation for rides until late May or June depending on snowfall, but riding on the street when I'm able.  Are there any disadvantages with this?
      I'm new to posting on this forum, so please forgive me if I didn't get the right search words in and there is already a post about this.
    • By Markl5557
      I am currently running 10w 40 Belray non synthetic and I want to switch to full synthetic amsoil .... is it ok to switch from regular to synthetic? I have read it’s not safe to go from synthetic to regular can someone explain if it’s safe to go from regular to synthetic!? Thanks !
    • By RockyMtnMark
      Good Morning,
        Last night I measured my valve clearances for the very first time (I know...) on my DRZ400S.  It's a 2002 and I've owned is since 2011.  I bought it with t's got about 15,000 miles on it and most of it's miles these days are on dirt.
      Intake specs are 0.10-0.20 mm.  Exhaust specs are 0.20-0.30
      My intake valve clearances are in spec, forgot to write them down.  My exhaust valve clearances are between 0.1778 and 0.2032 which is slightly out of spec.  They are no more than 25 microns out of spec.  My question is, do I really need to shim these?  Will this kind of out-of-spec cause performance, mechanical, or other losses?  As far as I can tell, I'd have to buy a whole shim kit which is like $80.  Thanks!
    • By Zach440
      Selling my 2009 Drz400sm. Been a great bike but it’s time to let go . Not looking for any trades - spring is just around the corner ! Located in northern Virginia . Cash only $4200- willing to negotiate I have some wolfman luggage options available as well. Love to make a package deal for someone 

      -11640 miles . Mild off-road never wrecked.
      -Oil / filter changed every 1500 miles
      -New did chain , brake pads , front sprocket at 10400 miles .
      - valves checked and within spec at 10,000
      - jetted with JD kit and 3x3 mod
      -doubletake mirrors
      -waterproof usb wired and located next to Speedo
      - drc large foot pegs , barkbusters with integrated turn signals . 12oclocklabs tall delete with upgraded circuit board
      -thumpertalk case savers
      -sergeant seat (amazing) and Clarke 3.9 tank (190mile range )
      - fog lights wired in so they shut off with high beams
      -Shorai lithium battery
      -led headlight

      - stock gas tank and seat will be included

      The bike is dirty in photos and I apologize my water is currently disabled outside due to freezing temps . Radiator guards and skid plate NOT included but can be for some extra $$. Rear tire could be replaced but front is fine .