Hole in bottom of crankcase

Hi all, I got a replacement engine shipped to me but during shipment too much pressure pushed on the oil inlet causing it to break a penny sized hole next to the threaded opening on the bottom of the motor.

Anyone know if there would be too much pressure in the case to try a JB weld fix?I can see the piece inside that broke off, was thinking I could piece it all back.

I believe that the pressure builds up in the case to push the oil into the frame which is the holding tank, is that correct? is that a lot of pressure?

I filed a claim so hopefully ups will admit they didn't package it well enough and refund the cost. If not was wondering if I could salvage it long enough to ride and save to get my old one rebuilt.

Gotta wait for them to come check it out now.

:thumbsup: Just when I though I could get ridin again :confused:

The oil drain broke?

thats not from internal pressure but either from an external impact of overtightening the drain plug and the washer becomes a wedge cracking the cases...

there is no way oil pressure would crack or break the case like that.


I think the previous poster misunderstood your OP.

Usually pressure doesn't build up in the crankcase, so JB weld will probably work fine.

I see...

So the oil inlet from the oil tank?

Pressure can easily build from the crankcase due to combustion pressure leaking past the rings. All engines do this. hopefully the crankcase is vented well enough to keep pressures reasonable and let the JB weld work, but thats a sketchy situation.


pressure in case is minimal as it's vented to atmosphere.only pressure pulses from piston motion and blowby.

pump pulls oil back into tank,not positive pressure in engine.

you can try jb weld as temporary measure but welding up is better option.you must remove loose piece however.

Please post a picture of the damage.



Here are the pics. Thanks for the answers to the oil pressure, makes sense about the pump and venting. I guess I am just frustrated so I can't think clear.

If you look you can see the piece just hanging over the edge

Wow... that is pretty bad. IDK if I'd try to fix it.

I'd want to send it back to the seller and get your money back. That or get a price for new cases and labor along with other needed parts and file a claim with the shipper, it was insured, right?

Pretty sure it was insured. The seller paid to have them package it so he feels he was not at fault. I agree, they had no padding on the bottom, they just put it in a box with a trash bag on it and filled the box with packing peanuts. The case would be about 300, then i was thinking at least 300 more labor. I paid 700 for the engine so they are better off refunding me.

I can't do anything til Monday when the UPS investigator can hopefully meet me to see for himself.

Thanks for the advice, I think it's pretty bad as well

Do not supply the estimate yourself, unless the UPS guy pays the full amount of the insurance, get a dealer quote. Maybe you'll be lucky, UPS will pay you the full amount and let you keep the engine. Then source a set of donor cases.

A really good welder could fix the cases. Then engine would have to be split and all traces of oil removed as well as all rubber parts. Theheat the entire case up un a special furnace then quickly TIG weld it. Followed up by a magnifluxing to ensure a perfect weld. A check for case true and then a reassemble. When I lived in NJ, I had a lot of frineds in the Defense industry, made missle systems. They had some kick butt welders. I knew this one retired guy, was now welding farm implements but he was so good, NASA used to send him the really delicate stuff to do. Perfection was an understatement.

Man ... thats nasty !!

if ups will pay for new cases, go that route. if not cases can be welded.

here is my 600rr case from when the bike hit a tree.





bike now runs great :smirk:

Thanks all for your advice. UPS wouldn't help me, Luckily ebay buyer protection had my back and is refunding me when I return the engine to the seller.

That sucks for the seller though also.

UPS wouldn't help?.... was it insured?

UPS won't tell me anything, from what I understand from my ebay claim, UPS is going to pay him for it. He is really making out though because ebay is forcing a refund for me so I get my money back but he still gets the money from UPS and I have to pay to send him back the engine. Now he can part it out and make even more if he is smart. So he gets paid for UPS supposedly damaging it, the engine back to do whatever with and I am out $75 dollars and still not riding over 2 weeks after.

The hunt is on to find another now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By BikeChimp
      I'd like to turn my UK 2004 DRZ400S back to stock airbox (snorkel) and jets, needle shim position etc
      When I bought it the PO had fitted a Sigma6 kit and done the 3x3 mod but is doesn't have a tapered needle like the JD and other kits. Took me ages to get it running right, however it still runs rich and I'm fed up of arsing around with it. 
      So I've bought a standard airbox without 3x3 hole, stock exhaust.
      Q1 The Suzuki manual says this Mukuni BSR36 (29FA) carb should have a 142.5 Main Jet but the Clymer manual say its a 135.  In UK everything's from sea level to 1000m. I'm in Sheffield so nothing gets above 500m even in the Peaks (Hills). Any UK owners or anyone else know what the correct jet should be?
      Q2 Says the original needle is a '5DH36-2nd'. The needle has 5 notches on it. Currently set at 2 clip from bottom. The Suzuki reference says needle is 5DH36-2nd, Does the 2nd bit mean 2nd from top or bottom?
      Q3 - Does anyone have a detailed photo of the shim order just in case it was assembled wrong. (mine is attached)
      I know most people on here are going to be horrified I'm taking back to stock but any help on above would be really appreciated.

    • By Bgringo
      I've read a lot of threads about this but still haven't found exactly what I'm looking for.  I'm pulling my 2004 DRZ400S out of storage sometime this week and getting it ready for the season.  I live at 9,000 ft, but my first ride of the year is probably going to be at around 5,000 ft.  I was going to pull the 145 main jet I'm running and put in the 150 adjusting the needle from the 2 clip to the 3rd, then re-jet once I got home.  I already have the extended fuel mixture screw in place so I started thinking that I should just run the 150 jet set up and adjust the fuel screw to compensate for the higher elevation where I'll be doing most of my riding.  I will be going down in elevation for rides until late May or June depending on snowfall, but riding on the street when I'm able.  Are there any disadvantages with this?
      I'm new to posting on this forum, so please forgive me if I didn't get the right search words in and there is already a post about this.
    • By Markl5557
      I am currently running 10w 40 Belray non synthetic and I want to switch to full synthetic amsoil .... is it ok to switch from regular to synthetic? I have read it’s not safe to go from synthetic to regular can someone explain if it’s safe to go from regular to synthetic!? Thanks !
    • By RockyMtnMark
      Good Morning,
        Last night I measured my valve clearances for the very first time (I know...) on my DRZ400S.  It's a 2002 and I've owned is since 2011.  I bought it with t's got about 15,000 miles on it and most of it's miles these days are on dirt.
      Intake specs are 0.10-0.20 mm.  Exhaust specs are 0.20-0.30
      My intake valve clearances are in spec, forgot to write them down.  My exhaust valve clearances are between 0.1778 and 0.2032 which is slightly out of spec.  They are no more than 25 microns out of spec.  My question is, do I really need to shim these?  Will this kind of out-of-spec cause performance, mechanical, or other losses?  As far as I can tell, I'd have to buy a whole shim kit which is like $80.  Thanks!
    • By Zach440
      Selling my 2009 Drz400sm. Been a great bike but it’s time to let go . Not looking for any trades - spring is just around the corner ! Located in northern Virginia . Cash only $4200- willing to negotiate I have some wolfman luggage options available as well. Love to make a package deal for someone 

      -11640 miles . Mild off-road never wrecked.
      -Oil / filter changed every 1500 miles
      -New did chain , brake pads , front sprocket at 10400 miles .
      - valves checked and within spec at 10,000
      - jetted with JD kit and 3x3 mod
      -doubletake mirrors
      -waterproof usb wired and located next to Speedo
      - drc large foot pegs , barkbusters with integrated turn signals . 12oclocklabs tall delete with upgraded circuit board
      -thumpertalk case savers
      -sergeant seat (amazing) and Clarke 3.9 tank (190mile range )
      - fog lights wired in so they shut off with high beams
      -Shorai lithium battery
      -led headlight

      - stock gas tank and seat will be included

      The bike is dirty in photos and I apologize my water is currently disabled outside due to freezing temps . Radiator guards and skid plate NOT included but can be for some extra $$. Rear tire could be replaced but front is fine .