DR650 and the MSR skid plate...

Just finished installing my new MSR skid plate to my new DR650 :thumbsup:

Here's a "Head's up" to anyone who hasn't installed one yet...the skid plate needs to sit a bit further back than you think it should. If your drain plug isn't COMPLETELY accessible through the hole in the plate, then you're too far forward. Also, it is possible for the ends of the rear mounting bolts to make contact with the engine casing if not centered properly. There is an indent/channel that runs across the case from one side to the other...THIS is where the REAR mounting bolts should go, so the the protruding ends are safely in this channel and away from the engine casing.

When the rear mounting-bolt ends are located this channel, the oil drain-plug should be easily accessible!

Good luck...it took me a few tries, but I got it!

Now...for that all important TEST DRIVE! :confused:

Interested in how much you perceive the engine noise level to have increased. The MSR does have the side wings for case protection doesn't it?

I'm trying to decide on a bash plate style myself and would like your input on the noise thing. Thanks

This is the one I ordered http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/2/10/216/13174/DPITEM/Dirt-Bike-Motocross-Engine-Covers-Guards-MSR-Racing-Skid-Plate.aspx but the one I received is slightly different in that it has 2 rear clamps instead of one, as shown in the picture and the hole for the drain plug is elongated instead of round.

The engine protection extends part way up the sides, not enough for side impacts so depending on how you ride (or fall), you might want to consider extra armor for the clutch/oil filter. Procycle sells the set for $149.95 USD I will probably be getting some of those as well...as soon as I pay off the bills for this last round of "toys"!

As for reflected engine noise...I did not notice anything out of the ordinary on my test-drive today. I ride my TW most of the week as a commuter, and the DR sounds completely different anyway, so I can't really say if a skid plate makes a difference or not. Sorry!

When I got home, I decided to try tweaking the mixture screw (now that it is accessible) and I couldn't believe how HOT the starter gets when the engine is running...youch!

Do they make a plastic case/skid plate for the DR, I would prefer that over the aluminum.

Does anyone know?

I wouldn't recommend The Utah plate. It is flush to the frame and there is less than a 1/4 of a inch of clearance between the plate and the oil drain plug. The oil drain hole is so big that the plug is vunerable. It doesn't cover the entire underside and leaves about 4 inches to get busted up. The bigest problem is the rear mounts nearly touch the engine case and a good hit can force the clamp into the engine case and bust it. I modified my Utah buy extending it to the rear mounting locations for the OEM mounting holes and not using the clamps. Then I glued Rubber to the underside to help with noise. I now have some room underneath the frame rails and plate so I got some room to take a dent and not hit the drain plug.

Does anyone know if they make a 'plastic' skid plate instead of aluminum. I am not doing any 'rock crawling'.

I havn't seen one for a Dr but it would be nice for the guys that don't abuse their bike and just want something to deflect some small stuff. It would be better for noise and would probally be cheaper. The Dr's motor takes every inch of space between the rails and is just waiting to be detroyed without a plate if any serious dirt riding is done.

I havn't seen one for a Dr but it would be nice for the guys that don't abuse their bike and just want something to deflect some small stuff. It would be better for noise and would probally be cheaper. The Dr's motor takes every inch of space between the rails and is just waiting to be detroyed without a plate if any serious dirt riding is done.

Correct, I just want something to protect it, I may just go with the aluminum plate since I am riding dirt roads where I live. The OEM Bridgestone tires are like riding on marbles on gravel roads. :thumbsup:

I need to get real tires on it, as well.

I wouldn't recommend The Utah plate. It is flush to the frame and there is less than a 1/4 of a inch of clearance between the plate and the oil drain plug. The oil drain hole is so big that the plug is vulnerable. It doesn't cover the entire underside and leaves about 4 inches to get busted up. The biggest problem is the rear mounts nearly touch the engine case and a good hit can force the clamp into the engine case and bust it. I modified my Utah buy extending it to the rear mounting locations for the OEM mounting holes and not using the clamps. Then I glued Rubber to the underside to help with noise. I now have some room underneath the frame rails and plate so I got some room to take a dent and not hit the drain plug.

Have any pics of your modified skid plates new rear mounts?

thread_is_worthless.jpg

I slid the plate to the rear a bit up onto to the gusset so I could get a little more space between the engine and plate. Then I cut a piece of aluminum from a old road sign and drilled my holes. I used the rear holes of the plate to bolt on my extension because I thougth it would be stronger than welding it. I cut the bolts flush with the nut and tightened it up. Plenty of clearance and no worries about a busted case. "I should have used loctite" A bolt came out last week and after tring to put a nut on that without taking the plate off was a pain so off came the plate. I got a aluminum nut and ground it in half then welded to the plate and loctited the bolt and ground it flush with the nut. If I loose one again it will be cake. 170.jpg171.jpg174.jpg173.jpg As you can see I need a plate. I had to take a heavy hammer to beat out the dents. Look at the bolts for the peg mounts. That changed my mind about lowered pegs.

Edited by bob101770

Thanks for the pics. I think that was a good idea. I don't like how the rear skid plate mounts have to be positioned just right in the recesses of the case either. Even with the plate positioned just right, the rear mounts are dangerously close to the cases. It appears it would not take much of an impact to push the rear skid plate mounting clamp bolts through the case. Did this modification open a gap between the skid plate and frame rails or is there still skid plate to frame contact?

Besides a reflective noise from the skid plate I think there is a high frequency resonant noise too from metal to metal contact. I had a resonant noise on my CRF230 with the BBR skid plate until I eliminated the contact points. I wish Acerbis made a molded plastic skid plate for the big DR. I had two of them, one my XR and one on my CR too. They were great skid plates. They were vacuum molded around the frame rails and fit like a glove.

If you don't have welding skills or access to a good aluminum welder this looks like a good option. You said one of the bolts came out and it was a pain to join the two pieces together again so you had to remove the plate and ended up welding nuts to it. Here is another option to join the two pieces together using a specialized fastener that would make life easier. You still would have to make sure it is not so tall to create the same clearance problem all over again. Or any captive fastener along these lines that might allow a better fit. I have seen these style fasteners in Ace Hardware Stores

http://www.thefastenerwarehouse.com/catalog/item/570438/216473.htm

Tech25

Edited by Tech25

It opened a gap in the rear of the plate where it sits on the gusset but makes contact again about halfway up the plate. I plan on using washers on the bottom of the front mounts till I get the front of the plate off the rails enough to get the same seperation as I have in the back.

Edited by bob101770

I am going to check up on the plastic skid plate, I do like them better.

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