How to remove the carb on a 250???

Does anyone have any tips on how to get the carb out of the 2008-2010 250 xcf-w? Is it all force or are there any tips? It's tight everywhere - clearance above the cable at the starter, the upper frame and the TPS, no gap/slack at the mount hoses, etc.

I know this may sound like whining but I just want to be sure I'm not missing some key step that could make this a lot easier/simpler (kind of like the advice for changing tires - "if you're working too hard you're not doing it right"). Should I be swinging the subframe up and out of the way?

BTW - it has a QS3 with adjustable leak jet that makes the bottom even tighter.



I am assuming it's the same on a 2007 450 sxf. I removed the air filter box, the throttle cable and the other cables. I then removed it from the engine, turned it fully sideways and pulled it out of the frame. Hope this helps.

Loosen up the clamps, loosen the upper subframe bolt, take out the lower subframe bolts and swing the subframe up and out of the way. Then you should have plenty of room.

I think the sub frame swing is it. I can't see any other way to move the airbox back without doing this.

I was checking the repair manual and they also talk about removing the engine brace links. The pictures in the manual look like they are probably from a single cable carb with no starter motor (SX-F?) with plenty of room that's not what I'm working with.

Thanks guys.

Actually, you can remove the airfilter and the inner boot can be detached from the airbox assy. I've done it this way but I think it's easier to swing the subframe up. The biggest PITA is removing the exhaust to do it.

Swinging the sub frame worked great. I just loosened (top) and removed (bottom) bolts after removing silencer and then rigged a lightweight hoist to keep it up and away and the carburetor came out and went back in just fine.



Glad it worked for you. You can also just tighten the top bolt to hold it up.

Glad it worked for you. You can also just tighten the top bolt to hold it up.

Oh yeah - I didn't think of that - thanks again.


If you ever have to rejet and need to turn the carb it's still a bit tricky. I have found that the frame is in the way to make it rotate completely but if you loosen the hose clamps you are barely able to force it towards the right side (throttle cable will have some pressure on the frame).

Kind of annoying but you eventually figure it out.

On the 250F you just loosen all three clamps, pull the carb backwards, remove the carb/head rubber, then remove the carb. Far easier than the bigger bikes.

Actually, you can remove the airfilter and the inner boot can be detached from the airbox assy. I've done it this way but I think it's easier to swing the subframe up. The biggest PITA is removing the exhaust to do it.

TJ I never remove the exhaust. Just pull the spring and swing up the can with the subframe and leave the header in place.

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