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damper(?) rod not pushing out

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06 CRF250x

Story:

Putting new fork seals in, one fork goes perfectly. When pulling apart the other one I noticed the damper(?) would get sucked in instead of being pushed outwards. I figured it leaked air or something so I continue to it apart I put new oil in, pump it up and down to bleed out the air, put the valve back on the top and see if the rod gets pushed back out but when I push the rod in oil come out of the bleeder holes and the rod just gets sucked back in. What do I have to replace? O-rings? I do have motion pro air bleeder on it if that has anything to do with it.

Thanks in advance for any help.

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you have to replace the floating piston oilseal, it's broken.

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ok so i ordered new seals from race-tech, how much of a pita are they to install? is there a guide somewhere?

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I wrote this before:

-Heat up the threads on the fork cap and use a 13mm wrench to hold the nut and remove the fork cap.

-Pull the fork cap, spring and nut off of the shaft

-Pull the free piston off of the shaft

-Remove the bushings and o-ring from the free piston

-Remove the circlip and washer from the free piston

-Place the free piston in the oven at 250F for about 15-20min

-Take note of which way the seal goes in the piston

-Flip the piston over and use a micro screw driver or something similar to tap the seal from behind out of the free piston. Slowly go around tapping and it should come out.

-Place the new seal in the piston and tap it into place with appropriate sized socket or something similar and put the washer/circlip back in

-Cover the threads of the shaft with teflon tap and carefully put the free piston back onto the shaft

-Put everything else back together

The seal will either come out easy or be a pain in the ass. If it really won't come out you may have to use something like a puller. If you have a lathe then you use that and skip a few steps.

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-Heat up the threads on the fork cap and use a 13mm wrench to hold the nut and remove the fork cap.

easier (+ better and way faster) to remove the compression holder

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easier (+ better and way faster) to remove the compression holder

I'm blanking on the part?

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he means the complete shim stack with the tap still connected, the part which the comp needle goes into, it unthreads and then you dont have to reset the adjuster for the right amount of clicks.

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easier (+ better and way faster) to remove the compression holder

It's hard to do without the proper shaft holder. Before i had someone machine some aluminum blocks for me, i used hard wood blocks. The compression tap is 16mm. If you drill a 16mm hole in a hardwood block and then saw it in half, you get the perfect tool for the job :smirk:

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It's hard to do without the proper shaft holder.

nope - you just need a face spanner

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hmm, this is sounding a bit technical. am i going to need any special tools? drill? drill what?

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nope - you just need a face spanner

I would like to know more about this. Also forgive my ignorance but what is a face spanner?

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Here you go

comptool.jpg

No need to remove piston and shims

Just did it for better perceptibility

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Didn't know they were removable. That definitely makes things easier if I have to do it in the future.

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soft jaw grips can work depending on how much threadlock there is.

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I wrote this before:

-Heat up the threads on the fork cap and use a 13mm wrench to hold the nut and remove the fork cap.

-Pull the fork cap, spring and nut off of the shaft

-Pull the free piston off of the shaft

-Remove the bushings and o-ring from the free piston

-Remove the circlip and washer from the free piston

-Place the free piston in the oven at 250F for about 15-20min

-Take note of which way the seal goes in the piston

-Flip the piston over and use a micro screw driver or something similar to tap the seal from behind out of the free piston. Slowly go around tapping and it should come out.

-Place the new seal in the piston and tap it into place with appropriate sized socket or something similar and put the washer/circlip back in

-Cover the threads of the shaft with teflon tap and carefully put the free piston back onto the shaft

-Put everything else back together

The seal will either come out easy or be a pain in the ass. If it really won't come out you may have to use something like a puller. If you have a lathe then you use that and skip a few steps.

I just replaced my ICS seals following Kan3's instructions. When I put it all back together, how far on do I thread the cap before tightening the lock nut? Maybe I was not supposed to remove the lock nut, but I did in order to clean everything up. But it seems that the distance I screw on the cap will affect the tuning of the shock. Is there some way to determine the correct distance? Or doesn't it matter?

PS - When ordering ICS seals, order two. I thought they would come as pairs, but they do not, so I had to pay shipping twice - which costs as much as the seal.

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