2007 250xcw - Can't get lights working

Here's my electrical issue:

I picked up a headlight and tailight for a 07 250xcw. Since neither light worked once connected, I checked the front and rear harnesses for 12+ volts. Nothing there. Then checked across the voltage regulator. Still nothing. Then checked the yellow wire that comes up from the stator/lighting coil to a ground. Still nothing.

I'm no electrical expert but at this point was guessing the issue was with the lighting coil. Fortunately, I have twin 07 xcw's so swapped the stator/lighting coil and fired up the bike again. Still no lights and no voltage at the yellow wire using the other stator/coil.

I suppose both lighting coils could be bad but am wondering if I'm even diagnosing this correctly? Am at loss and am hoping I'm overlooking something obvious.

Any thoughts?

Are you checking for DC voltage or AC voltage. The stators put out AC voltage. So if your checking for DC you will see nothing, flip your your multimeter over to AC and see what you have.

What lighting kit did you get and did it come with a wiring diagram?

I believe you need to have a voltage regulator / rectifier and a battery to make the lights work, but not sure, this is where the wiring diagram comes into play, it should tell you all you need to know about hooking up the lights.

If you can post up the wiring diagram I'd be happy to look it over, I'm not an electrician but I have been shocked :smirk: enough times to have a good understanding of electricity and power circuits

O40R

Oh my...AC/DC? I was on the DC setting! It's a little late to fire up the bike on a Sunday night but will switch to the AC setting and recheck things tomorrow evening.

What lighting kit did you get and did it come with a wiring diagram?

I believe you need to have a voltage regulator / rectifier and a battery to make the lights work, but not sure, this is where the wiring diagram comes into play, it should tell you all you need to know about hooking up the lights.

If you can post up the wiring diagram I'd be happy to look it over, I'm not an electrician but I have been shocked :smirk: enough times to have a good understanding of electricity and power circuits

O40R

Thanks for the offer! It's the stock headlight and tailight I bought on Ebay. No wiring diagram with it but will see if I can dig one up tomorrow and post it.

Not sure on the battery either but would guess a battery is only necessary for lights on without the engine running. That's how my DRZ was. Once the bike starts, wouldn't the lights just run off the stator/lighting coil without a battery?

I would think so, this is why the light gets dim at idle.

You have to have a completed circuit for the light to work, voltage has to flow in a circle thru the light bulb. If you have an open (break / short) in the circuit power can't flow.

You may need to check all of your electrical connections for continuity / broken wires, also check your grounds to the frame.

Well I found two connectors that I'd forgotten about in the spaghetti of wires when taking the bike apart this past winter (at the time, figured they were for turn signals). One connector with a yellow wire and one connector with two white wires. Connected the two through a spare switch I have and wallah...lights! (Over 40 Rider: Your mention of open circuit got me thinking on this...thanks!)

Still trying to figure out the following items:

-On the stock headlight there are two bulbs;a large one in the center and a little bulb near the bottom. Only the little bulb is lit. Is the large bulb for high beam? How should this be connected? I see an additional white wire that appears to loop back into the harness connector and am guessing this may have something to do with it.

-Without a battery, is there a way to stop the headlight flicker at low rpm's?

-The taillight has an additional two wire connector. No idea what its for since the three-wire connector for the light plugs into the bikes main harness and is working.

Good job hotshot. On my bike the small bulb, which I think is just a running light, is never lit so i can't help you there. I seem to recall though that the bulbs were dual element bulbs which would give you hi/low beams. I think the small bulb is just a running lamp.

Good job on the troubleshooting!!!

Well I found two connectors that I'd forgotten about in the spaghetti of wires when taking the bike apart this past winter (at the time, figured they were for turn signals). One connector with a yellow wire and one connector with two white wires. Connected the two through a spare switch I have and wallah...lights! (Over 40 Rider: Your mention of open circuit got me thinking on this...thanks!)

You're Welcome, glad I could help

Still trying to figure out the following items:

-On the stock headlight there are two bulbs;a large one in the center and a little bulb near the bottom. Only the little bulb is lit. Is the large bulb for high beam? How should this be connected? I see an additional white wire that appears to loop back into the harness connector and am guessing this may have something to do with it.

I believe you are correct, do you have a hi-lo switch to test this theory?

-Without a battery, is there a way to stop the headlight flicker at low rpm's?

Only way I know of without a battery would be to turn the idle up

-The taillight has an additional two wire connector. No idea what its for since the three-wire connector for the light plugs into the bikes main harness and is working.

That might be for the turn signals

there is really nothing you can due about it dimming at idle due to the AC voltage since the voltage varys so much at different rpms and due to the fact that it doesnt have a battery wich means no real steady voltage. Mine ranges from 9 to 10 at idle right off idle shoots up to around 32 volts. Make sure your voltage regulator is working correctly

I used to have the same problem on my XR. I rewound the stator and the lights were bright all the time with no battery. My EXC has a trail tech high output stator in it and my lights are dim, go figure.:smirk:

If your running a trailtech stator and you have dim lights you better re-check your wiring job. If you want solid steady lights convert to DC. The trailtech regulator / rectifier is cheap and does the job well. It takes the AC outputs of the stator and provides you DC. Run a battery and you will have lights all the time that never dim.

Joe.........

Thanks for the responses guys! After looking further into the wiring harness and headlight, I'm theorizing that there are 3 circuits for the headlight that are powered by the yellow wire from the engine/stator:

-white wire powers small "running" light bulb

-above white wire is jumpered to power green wire for low (or hi?) beam

-a blue wire feeds the hi (or low?) beam but no jumper is installed power blue wire

Is this theory correct? Can I just run one more jumper wire to power the blue wire or is this too much power for the stock stator to handle? Unfortunately, the large (two circuit) bulb "rattles" due to a blown filament so will have to buy another before checking this theory.

I'll have to look into the Trailtech regulator/rectifier. Definitely like the idea of a no flicker setup.

Since I'm in for another bulb, is there a brighter one that will still work with the stock stator?

Sounds like you are getting close. I don't know if the wires can be jumpered or not.

Anyone else?

Thanks for the responses guys! After looking further into the wiring harness and headlight, I'm theorizing that there are 3 circuits for the headlight that are powered by the yellow wire from the engine/stator:

-white wire powers small "running" light bulb

-above white wire is jumpered to power green wire for low (or hi?) beam

-a blue wire feeds the hi (or low?) beam but no jumper is installed power blue wire

Is this theory correct? Can I just run one more jumper wire to power the blue wire or is this too much power for the stock stator to handle? Unfortunately, the large (two circuit) bulb "rattles" due to a blown filament so will have to buy another before checking this theory.

I'll have to look into the Trailtech regulator/rectifier. Definitely like the idea of a no flicker setup.

Since I'm in for another bulb, is there a brighter one that will still work with the stock stator?

Yes, you can tap the AC output and run whatever you like. If you get too crazy you could over draw the stator but it will not hurt anything, your lights will just run dim. Don't get caught up into what color wires are in there. Just think of the circuit you want to run and make it happen. As your bike site you have AC so use it the way you want.

If you go the DC route you will ditch the dim factor, going DC is easy enough. Where you will get into issues is if your running high wattage stuff like a bike HID.

Joe........

DSCN4949.JPG

Here are some pics from my 200 - should be close to the same.

ktm%20light2.jpg

and

this

ktm%20light.jpg

Hope this helps.

Yes, you can tap the AC output and run whatever you like. If you get too crazy you could over draw the stator but it will not hurt anything, your lights will just run dim. Don't get caught up into what color wires are in there. Just think of the circuit you want to run and make it happen. As your bike site you have AC so use it the way you want.

If you go the DC route you will ditch the dim factor, going DC is easy enough. Where you will get into issues is if your running high wattage stuff like a bike HID.

Joe........

DSCN4949.JPG

Joe, thanks for your clear explanation. Electrical can be sort of "voodoo" because you can't see what's going on physically. Think I'll head to Sicass Racing today as it looks like they have a variety of bulbs, switches, etc.

Here are some pics from my 200 - should be close to the same.

ktm%20light2.jpg

and

this

ktm%20light.jpg

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the pics Deeman! :smirk: Our setups look identical. Is that a blue fuse I see? Do you know if its there to protect from an overload or just as a jumper between the blue and green wires?

Blue fuse indeed - and yes, it's only a jumper since I don't have any switches at all on the bike.

I wired up both the Green and Blue wires- so both filiments are energized. Is this OK to have both on at the same time?

Or does, low beam filament switch off when High beam is on with the stock switch?

I only started the bike in the garage to see if they work. Don't want to blow out anything on the trail next week.

Well I picked up a 45/40w halogen bulb and headlight running light/hi/lo switch from Sicass Racing. Don't know that I'll need three levels of light unless plating which I doubt will do but hooked it up and all is working.

Thanks for the fuse trick Deeman as a juimper! Works well.

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