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Is this right? Racetech Gold Valves no dampner?

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Got the 2001 DRZ 400S 3 seasons of riding ago(it sat for 2 seasons unused as well). I have a fresh zero miles stock DRZ rear shock installed that actually has the 3 adjustments rear - instead of the 2001 2 adjustment shock.

So I'm reading a 100 threads on DRZ 400s forks- just after I took the top caps off to refresh the fork oil on my 2001 400s forks for my first time- currently all drained and rinsed out. It's a second hand bike that I have 2 seasons on.

There are racetech stickers on the legs and the previous owner said he had the forks sent out and done by Racetech for him. The forks rode hard as a rock for both him and I, and he was surprised when I said it rode really hard- (We both weigh 175-185 lbs-ish plus gear max 200lbs).

Off comes the cap easy - followed by one exactly 2 inches long and the other 2 1/8th inch long of grey PVC plumbing- one side 1/8th inch longer than the other, followed by a 20 inch springs and a gold colored lower valve that has the locking nut threaded down about a 3/16th" and the other 2/16th" inch. Was wondering if I should set them slacker or just equal to the slacker of the 2 ????

There was no dampner rods in the shock to disconnect from cap as per:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=937579

Is that correct ???

The fork springs have no number markings on the flat ends or anywhere I noticed. They hopefully are the right ones as the previous owner is same size as me.

The top adjustment was screwed in 6.5 turns in or 3 lines on the scale on the side of the screw adjuster head in on both sides and on the lower legs the in the middle of the bottom of the nut - it was screwed in 1.5 turns on both sides.

Riding season before last 2 winter and the minus 40f as the bike sat through those winters- it had a leaky fork seal and I had a decent sized puddle on the floor through the first winter in addition to all the fluid it had lost while riding- common I have heard for frozen/ shrunken components to leak better.

So I bring it out of mothballs- ride it hard and find the front end to be softer and quite a balanced decent setup front to back through the sand whoops etc- due to the loss of fluid- i get the impression it's not the springs I had a problem with- it was the weight/height of the oil???

Bike had always tracked nice and still did, but it would just beat you up - feeling so hard on any bump. But the front tire always felt planted as it still did with less fluid.

I never touched the rear set up , but plan to this time.

My plan is just to go find the lightest fork oil I can get and then turn clickers to your suggestions or trial and error ????

Edited by RealtorGordonB

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I will go about setting the sag on the rear etc. As for settings- I didn't check them and I will, rear end sits a little low from the KTMs 530 and 525 I have been riding the last 2 years - but it feels pretty good offroad in the bumps and sand whoops where I went and pushed it- any suggested settings on those 3 will be tested as well please describe not only the name , but the location as well- I don't know what each of the 3 are called, nor what they do.

Thanks

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When the front forks were new in 2001- before the Racetech parts were installed - was there dampners in the forks?

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There is damping RODS in the forks, but that is all. The first couple of years of the S model, the forks were not CARTRIDGE type forks. Thus the missing cartridge rods that screw into the bottom of the fork caps.

What the OP has is a set of Racetech Gold Valve EMULATORS!

Do a search and you can find out all the dirt on them.

Bundy

When the front forks were new in 2001- before the Racetech parts were installed - was there dampners in the forks?

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There is damping RODS in the forks, but that is all. The first couple of years of the S model, the forks were not CARTRIDGE type forks. Thus the missing cartridge rods that screw into the bottom of the fork caps.

What the OP has is a set of Racetech Gold Valve EMULATORS!

Do a search and you can find out all the dirt on them.

Bundy

I see- I thought the rod that connected to the cap was a dampening rod- interesting.

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you need to get a set of drz cartridge forks. you will be light years ahead.

I understand what you are saying. I'm not thinking to keep this bike forever and would rather sell it and buy a better bike than upgrading this one.

I need help just making it the best it can be without upgrading anything else.

I'm gonna try 2.5 weight fork oil to see if that stops it from pounding me.

Anyone remember how these old forks work and have suggestions on the adjustment settings I could try?

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They look exactly like Racetech Gold Valve pics on internet.

RaectechGoldValves.jpg

gold colored lower valve that has the locking nut threaded down about a 3/16th" and the other 2/16th" inch. Was wondering if I should set them slacker or just equal to the slacker of the 2 ????

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Who knows the fork oil level for these old style 2001 forks- or how do I find it tonight- shops closed.

I'm planning to have it reassembled as much tonight as I can.

IMG00472-20110510-1712.jpg

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those are emulators. yes,loosen the spring. 120mm level. when i was still doing the emulators i wass running nut flush with the end of the bolt in most cases.

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