Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

DB snorkel, not forest approved?!?

Recommended Posts

okay, so you know those goofy looking DB snorkels that people install to cut down on noise? what's been bugging me, is how in the heck does that NOT qualify as a spark arrestor?:smirk::smirk: the way i see it, anything that 'kills' the spark should be forest approved as a sparky... so how is a DB Snorkel, which has 2 seperate 'J' turns made out of a polymer rubber not considered a spark arresting device? I would think that if anything could destroy a spark, hitting the outside of a J turn on 2 seperate accounts would be it:excuseme:

that's my little rant for the day, because i was STRONGLY considering one for the 310 cause that things has a throaty roar to it and since im rocking the PC304 i really need a spark arrestor anyways so i thought i could "kill 2 birds with one stone" but noooOOOOooo..:prof:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A forrestry approved silencer and header wrap on your pipe will reduce the noise way more than a snorkel. Most of the noise is from the pipe. A thick pipe like the Gnarly helps too, also a pipe guard.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

FMF Gnarly with Q-Stealth -- forest approved, quiet, plenty of low-end torque.

but I dont think either one are available for a 91... -- sorry.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

doggawnit.. haha what i really liked about the snorkel is that it quiet's the bike down without sacrificing HP to do it. they have dyno charts showing before and after installation and most bikes lost like 1-2hp and 1/2 a lb of torque, not really a noticeable difference. My bike needs it too, i just repacked like 2 weeks ago and that thing is LOUD i can't even hear other people around me unless im totally putting around and theyre on the gas hard!

But Im not gonna go outta my way to buy a $100 pro circuit nature friendly, AND spend an additional $85 for a snorkel just to quiet it down to be legal! its absurd.. I'll try my luck with the ranger on the sound issue:p

I've also heard of people sealing the header pipe/port with high temp silicone? or moparcone? how much difference would that make on sound? I do the normal stuff like repack every other month or so, usually the same time as im cleaning carbs and air filters.. But i would like to try that sealing idea out, and also the pipe wrap, how much does that stuff cost?

on a related note, im almost POSITIVE that there's a bolt loose that has a washer that rattles like crazy, if i could find that little turd and screw it back in i think that should help as well!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You could use a stock silencer, most of the noise comes from the pipe. So header wrap and a pipe guard you should be the quietest bike out there. The exhaust opening is sealed by 2 o-rings and a copper washer. Try replacing those before you gum it up with silly-cone.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I like the DBSnorkel so far on my "KDX100"

IMG_5146.jpg

I tried header wrap but to my ears, made no difference. I took the wrap off but will revisit it later in the summer as I might add a pipe shield and see if that helps with the wrap together.

IMG_5032.jpg

My bike came with a R304 shorty and I wanted a Spark Arrester as well so went with the PC Type 296 which was way quieter than the R304 and the DBSnorkel made it even softer. Bike came jetted for R304 and Vforce3 reeds and don't think I will make a jet change for the Type296 and DBSnorkel.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

^^ AWESOME!^^ thanks a lot Conman, those pics are sweet! What does your bike blow dB wise? i would guess its pretty quiet, like a black ops stealth commando.. lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By jace kornegay
      I have a problem with my stage 2 exhaust cam on my rmz whenever I kick it over the exhaust cam likes to stop at the lift unless I put it at tdc or kick it really slow it runs fine when it starts and I have played around with the shims right now all the valves are shimed and I have checked the timing everything’s to spec it just gets stuck at the exhuast I’m pretty sure it’s something to do with too much compression I probally will end upbuying stock cams but wanted to see if anyone knows how to fix this first
    • By frontline510
      I recently acquired a 1990 KDX200. The bike runs reasonably well for it's age. The first ride over 30 min the gearbox oil started overflowing into the airbox (overflow hose is routed to airbox). The oil that overflowed and the oil in the gearbox are an odd shade of dark forest green. The oil appeared to be overfilled slightly which explains the overflow. What I don't understand is the weird dark blueish greenish gray color of the oil.  I believe the PO used motul 10w40 ester gearbox oil because he gave me a half used gallon. I use Motul 710 2t oil which is blue, and run green coolant in the radiator. I drained the gearbox oil and there was a nice little clump of dark gray metalic paste on the magnetic drain plug, which should explain the gray hue. What I do not understand is the greenish blue hue. Anyone know what in the heck is going on with this old horse?
      The pic shows a sample of my drained oil. When held up to the light it turns more of a green color. Oil still feels slick as can be.

    • By 2strokeKyle
      I am wondering how a kx125 will do at at Glaims. I am 14 years old 5 foot 4 inches  and 100 pounds. I will have a paddle tyre in the back too. 
       
    • By Snox90
      will a clutch basket from a 98kx250 fit a 96kx250? How about the carb also?
    • By Kaelan Frost
      I have a new cylinder that i bought to rebuild my 1993 kawasaki kx250 with, because the old cylinder was destroyed. The guy said the cylinder is overbored a little but never gave us numbers. The new one i bought came with a piston thats been used and i would like to replace. I believe the piston that came with the cylinder is the correct size, but it very well could be off and i have no way of knowing. So how do i properly measure the cylinder bore, and how do i use this measurement to find what size piston I need to get?
       
      thanks,
      Kaelan
×