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For some reason this information is not getting out to everyone, and I think it should be. This is what I consider vital information.

These are my opinions, before you start challenging me on this info.

Yes, you can buy your own jets rather than the JD kit. JD kit has tuning info, multiple jets, and SUPPORT.

** JD jet kit: corrects lean condition, and comes with multiple needles for multiple altitudes. No apump parts. No leak jet.

** Leak jet: you need to go down to a 55 or 50 to get the pump to squirt long enough, to work correctly. Increases duration of squirt.

** Apump diaphram and spring: replace only if your bike sits alot, or, if you have recently 'mistakenly' used carb cleaner on the carb.

** Apump mod: you can add an o-ring to the apump linkage, but a Merge Racing Detent spring upgrade works better, and lasts longer. Improves direct connection with throttle linkage. Pre 2008 models only need this.

** Apump adjustment: not required on all bikes, but good to check: apump linkage arm should touch throttle linkage arm, then back off 1/2 a turn. That is your starting point for the timing. Timing is about squirting just below the slide, and never hitting the slide.

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This should be a sticky. I took your advice some months ago and after seeing you repeatedly answer the same question, finally pitched in myself last week to try and save you some keystrokes. Who can make it a sticky?

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Krannie is the man!!! Using his tips my bike runs great. :smirk:

One question. What should the mere mortal use to clean the carb after storage? Isn't the modern gas we use part of the problem, so using that as a cleaner is out, right? I have looked around and I have yet to find one that says it's safe for o-rings. Should we just take the carb off , disassemble it and use Dawn?

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Krannie is the man!!! Using his tips my bike runs great. :smirk:

One question. What should the mere mortal use to clean the carb after storage? Isn't the modern gas we use part of the problem, so using that as a cleaner is out, right? I have looked around and I have yet to find one that says it's safe for o-rings. Should we just take the carb off , disassemble it and use Dawn?

Zip Ty racing recommends that if the carb has visible 'grunge' in it from Ethanol, to remove it and soak it in Simple Green overnight. Then clean passages a with Spray solvent like Brake cleaner. Using Stabil, and draining the float bowl before storage saves many hours of hassles.

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Krannie,

Why shouldn't carb cleaner 'mistakenly' be used to clean a carb?

Are they wrong to advertise their product as 'carb cleaner' as less knowledgeable people than yourself (me) may inadvertantly buy the stuff 'thinking' they are doing the right thing

I have heard mention of it destroying the 'O' rings etc and would like to know what other 'cleaner' you would recommend instead?

Up to now i have always cleaned any carb parts in a tub of paraffin or petrol and used compressed air to blow them dry and clear the passages, is that still OK for me to do in the future or is there something better to use?

EDIT: Apologies, I've just read the previous post properly but have never heard of 'simple green' in the UK

Interested amateur willing to learn

Thanks for all your positive inputs on the forum

Ian :smirk:

Edited by mxscotty
re-read the last post, Doh!!

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Krannie,

Why shouldn't carb cleaner 'mistakenly' be used to clean a carb?

Are they wrong to advertise their product as 'carb cleaner' as less knowledgeable people than yourself (me) may inadvertantly buy the stuff 'thinking' they are doing the right thing

I have heard mention of it destroying the 'O' rings etc and would like to know what other 'cleaner' you would recommend instead?

Up to now i have always cleaned any carb parts in a tub of paraffin or petrol and used compressed air to blow them dry and clear the passages, is that still OK for me to do in the future or is there something better to use?

EDIT: Apologies, I've just read the previous post properly but have never heard of 'simple green' in the UK

Interested amateur willing to learn

Thanks for all your positive inputs on the forum

Ian :smirk:

Ian

My experience has been that if you use any petrochemical cleaners that contain solvents that leave a residue (kerosene, petrol, auto carb cleaner, etc) that you will inadvertently damage fragile rubber parts. Solvents that do not leave a residue (do not out-gas for more than a few seconds) do not cause this damage.

'Carb' cleaner here in the states, generically refers to 'Automotive Spray Carburetor Cleaner', or "Carb / Parts Cleaner for parts immersion" and is designed solely for use on Automotive parts.

Auto carbs no longer use Butyl or Natural rubber parts, but use Composite or Paper/Phenolic/Synthetic plastic parts, impervious to Cleaners, Gasoline, etc.

Motorcycle carbs, use a great deal of rubber parts, including the 'body cavity separation seal' (the one behind the Torx security screws), which if damaged will destroy the carb.

There are 'Motorcycle Carb cleaners' available, and they are essentially the same as Spray Brake Cleaner, but cost twice as much.

0000-Motorex-Carburetor-Cleaner---.jpg

The Brake cleaner should be non-chlorinated type.

Brakleen%AE+Non-Chlorinated+Brake+Parts+Cleaners+-+20+oz+aerosol+brakleen+brake+parts+cleaner.jpg

What not to use:

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSOG_GLBA6v0P0OdG34QgUNmlNJHTjP7ta1nvfB25r8hbMXHS9_WQ

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcS9lOHfjQhHG9OvlS8WRHCgxl0V6V103gtb_1_aMZEu2vvfShwszA

2011-04-03_033529_carb.jpg

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Krannie-

You got to be tired of this issue however one more question out of me and that's it. I ordered this part (DIAPHRAGM SET, PUMP OEM part # 16021-MEN-A01) and it comes with a ton of other stuff in the package. Orings, needle looking thing, diaphragm, spring and cover. Do you replace everything or just the diaphragm and spring? I have also ordered the Merge Racing Spring spring as well.

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Krannie-

You got to be tired of this issue however one more question out of me and that's it. I ordered this part (DIAPHRAGM SET, PUMP OEM part # 16021-MEN-A01) and it comes with a ton of other stuff in the package. Orings, needle looking thing, diaphragm, spring and cover. Do you replace everything or just the diaphragm and spring? I have also ordered the Merge Racing Spring spring as well.

You can order just the diaphragm and orings as a repair kit, but I would change everything since you will have the parts.

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For some reason this information is not getting out to everyone, and I think it should be. This is what I consider vital information.

Could be the name tied to the sticky at the top:

Sticky: CRF450X FAQ Central!

May not be intuitive enough for the noobs or those in a hurry.

Maybe something like CRF450X Modifications, How To's & FAQ's.

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