By jake gu
Today we’re going to be talking a little bit about automotive suspensions and how they work to smoothen the ride of your car. There are mainly three purposes of the automotive suspension system. First, they support the weight of the vehicle. Second, they maintain accurate tire contact with the ground. And third, they absorb any shock that you get through the road when you hit a bump.
Most modern vehicles come with an independent front suspension. Which means if one wheel hits a bump it does not disturb the other wheel. Nowadays, people use Coil Spring to support the majority of weight in the car. As it has a really good characteristics for absorbing any bumps as you go up and down on the road.
However Springs aren’t very good at dissipating that energy. In fact that’s why you have the shock absorber. Which is there to smoothen out the ride and make sure the tire maintains contact with the road.
In modern passenger vehicles the two most popular suspensions are McPherson strut and double wishbone style of suspension. The main advantage of the McPherson strut suspension is that it’s really cheap and simple that’s why a lot of manufacturers are moving towards this design. The double wishbone design allows the wheel to stay perpendicular to the body as it navigates a corner or as it goes over a bump. And that maintains good tire contact patch no matter where the wheel is situated. Another advantage of this design is that it can be made adjustable where you can control the position of upper control arms ball Joints.
Click to Know More About Ball Joints and other Suspension Components
About a year and a half ago, we bought a used 2004 Arctic Cat 400 4x4 Automatic to take as a pit vehicle to races. Didn't want to spend too much on this and also wanted something to tinker with. The previous owner said he couldn't get it started and suspected it needed a new battery. The old air filter had also disintegrated and parts had been sucked into the carburetor. I cleaned the carburetor and replaced the battery and air filter and it started up and ran decently. Now that it was running we found that the carburetor leaked like crazy down onto the starter motor. It seemed to be leaking from the accelerator pump cover. I ordered a carburetor rebuild kit and accelerator pump rebuild kid. Replaced the pilot jet, main jet, leak jet, float bowl gasket, and even went ahead and replaced the bladder in the throttle slide, just in case. I also got new gas lines, petcock, and cleaned out the gas tank. After all of that, it still leaked from the accelerator pump cover, even with the engine off and the petcock in the on position. I then took the carb apart again, sprayed all the jets and passages with carb cleaner and compressed air (without any rubber gaskets or bladders in, of course) and adjusted the float. I also replaced the plastic choke assembly that screws into the carburetor. The threads were slightly stripped and it didn't seem to be seating in the carb very well. Put it back together and it stopped leaking, but now it runs like crap. It has okay throttle response with just a little bit of gas, but about mid to wide open throttle it will die. If I gradually apply the throttle all the way open, it will rev out, but quick throttle blips and it dies. Once it is warmed up, I can take it around the yard, but after about 90 seconds, it backfires on deceleration and dies. Let it sit for a few seconds, start it up and it will run fine for another 90 seconds, then backfire on deceleration and die.
I have replaced the starter motor (electric start stopped working and only responded to pull-start). Electric start works fine now.
Today I replaced the ignition coil and spark plug. I had read on arcticchat.com that someone else had similar issues and replacing the coil solved their problem. It has not solved mine, though after replacing the coil, it ran well for about 2.5 minutes before backfiring on deceleration and dying. I have no clue where to go from here. It is a Keihin CVK.
I have always had good luck getting help on thumpertalk in the dirt bike sections, so I thought maybe someone could help me with this!
I believe this is a topic which hasnt been explored much on here as I havn't been able to find any info.
I am curious to know if there is a road legal tyre that isnt knobbly that will fit onto standard 21" and 19" rims on a cr250.
I plan on commuting on the bike on road and dont thing I'll be using it much on the dirt any more.
A few days ago I nearly head on with a T junction because the knobblys didnt hold up while breaking.
Has anyone on here switched from knobbly to road legal flattrack type tyre on original rims?
Any pros cons to doing this?
Sizes, makes, options would be appreciated