2001 DRZ 400s fork set up adjustment advice??

There are racetech stickers on the legs and the previous owner said he had the forks sent out and done by Racetech for him. The forks rode hard as a rock for both him and I, and he was surprised when I told him I thought it rode too hard- (We both weigh 175-185-ish lbs plus gear max 200lbs).

Off comes the cap easy - followed by one exactly 2 inches long and the other fork 2 1/8th inch long of grey PVC plumbing- one side 1/8th inch longer than the other, followed by a 20 inch springs and a gold colored lower valve that has the locking nut threaded down about a 3/16th" and the other 2/16th" inch. Was wondering if I should set them slacker or just equal to the slacker of the 2 ????

There was no rods in the shock to disconnect from cap as per:


And I am told these are different from the new style of DRZ forks.

The fork springs have no number markings on the flat ends or anywhere I noticed. They seem to be the right ones as the previous owner is same size as me.

The top fork adjustmenters were screwed in 6.5 turns in- or 3 lines on the scale on the side of the screw adjuster head in on both sides and on the lower legs the in the middle of the bottom of the nut - it was screwed in 1.5 turns on both sides.

Lots of fork oil leaked out from seal over winter.

So I bring it out of mothballs- ride it hard and find the front end to be softer and quite a balanced decent setup front to back through the sand whoops etc- due to the loss of fluid- i get the impression it's not the springs I had a problem with- it was the weight/height of the oil???

Bike had always tracked nice and still did, but it would just beat you up - feeling so hard on any bump. But the front tire always felt planted as it still did with less fluid.

My plan is just to go find the lightest fork oil I can get and then turn clickers to your suggestions or trial and error ????

Found 2.5w fork oil and gonna try that first- if too light I'm sure I'll notice.

Edited by RealtorGordonB

When the front forks were new in 2001- before the Racetech parts were installed - was there dampners in the forks?

Your post is very confusing... Sounds like you are missing parts...? Or you are really not sure of whats going on. Um... my best advice would be to get a manual for your bike and research, ALOT' on this forum and retain a clear understanding of what you are trying gain. There is a wealth of imformation on this site. But if I was to take a guess, it sounds like there was way to much oil in your forks...

if you set the clickers half way, thats close to where most OEM set them.

Confusing in what way- maybe wrote too much? These are the older non cartridge type shock and have no rod in them connected to top cap.

Well PVC? Not sure why that would be in there? You must mean the dampning rod? Open bath forks? Maybe I'm confused? Sorry if I sounded rude. I wasn't trying to be.:smirk:

Well PVC? Not sure why that would be in there? You must mean the dampning rod? Open bath forks? Maybe I'm confused? Sorry if I sounded rude. I wasn't trying to be.:smirk:

No offense taken- just was looking to clarify what was not clear. I tend to write more than easy to read amount.

The PVC pipe is normal for spacing aftermarket springs- no surprise to me.

Apparently there is still a dampning rod down in the bottom and the gold valve seats on tp of it- it's not the same as a connecting rod that attaches to the top cap in hte newer DRZ forks :smirk: I thought the same- I took the top off the top of the fork and said- where's the dampening rod :prof:

These are what used to be normal I suppose- the dampner is at the bottom and there is no connecting rod up to the cap.

Oldschool - there is no rebound setting which is a problem pointed out to me. You need heavier oil like a 10w to act as the rebound setting. I almost put 2.5 w in today- glad I persisted for more answers.

I need to slacken my gold valves to free up movement of the the shock - wherein a new style cartridge shock you can lighten oil to make the shock move smoother(does not affect rebound).

Is the PVC used for preload? Like washers in verted forks?

Is the PVC used for preload? Like washers in verted forks?

Probably partially- though I was told that preload should be 4-5cms = around half inch- and these spacers are 2 inches long

I'm lost... Research a lil more and come back with a more direct question. There is a lot of guys and gals... on here that can and will help you out' mog, harp,davej and a host of others. Sorry if I didn't mention your name... Thank you to all! So start with the seals that are leaking. set fluid highth per manual for now, and like mog said... set clickers back to stock.:smirk:

So far I have learned after taking the forks apart - the racetech gold valves were set too tight, I loosened them off to even with each other with lock nut about 1/4inch from flush with end of thread and replaced the fork oil with fresh 10 weight as per manual.

The PVC pipe is just a spacer and is used to make the aftermarket springs the right length. The spacers are exactly the right length for 1/8th inch preload- less than what manual calls for but not an issue. When I use the top cap preload set to 1/3 inch the forks feel good.

I also found out that the rod that connects to the top cap is not the dampner(these forks have dampner below the spring- they are not the same as the 2002 and newer cartridge style fork)- the rod in newer forks is a connecting rod(??dampner connecting rod I assume??).

I now just need to look up what the setting screw on the bottom of the fork tubes does and get it set up and I'll be having a great ride.

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