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Kick starter

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Yes you will need the idler gear and bushings as well as a side cover gasket, the kick starter stopper, and possibly a few other pieces. Personally I would just buy the kit since by the time you source out the bits and pieces you'll have spent just as much anyway. I shopped around and got my kit for 212 shipped. It's an easy install too if you do your research.

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Yes you will need the idler gear and bushings as well as a side cover gasket, the kick starter stopper, and possibly a few other pieces. Personally I would just buy the kit since by the time you source out the bits and pieces you'll have spent just as much anyway. I shopped around and got my kit for 212 shipped. It's an easy install too if you do your research.

Yeah I just seen a picture of a kit and there is a lot more bits! I should just get the kit but I gave my damn battery a good long charge and it fired up without too much of a fight just before.

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Yeah I just seen a picture of a kit and there is a lot more bits! I should just get the kit but I gave my damn battery a good long charge and it fired up without too much of a fight just before.

I've never had a battery let me down but I've been in situations were I've worn down to the extent that was fearing the bike wouldnt fire. Sure is a reassuring feeling to know that I'll never have to worry about batteries again though.

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is it possible to install the kick start and remove the starter assembly on a 400sm?

would it be worthwhile in weight savings?

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Ok guys, I'm new here and have a question. I bought a '03 DRZ 400E that already had the kick start kit installed. I went to do the RTV fix on my bike, and discovered that the idler gear retainer and hardware were not reinstalled. In the process of getting the whole clutch/transmission cover off the right side of the bike, I ended up knocking the kicker shaft and spring out of place. No broken parts, just knocked out of place. So, anyways, I'm following Mr. Cob's tutorial on installing a kicker, and I have everything in it's place. I put everything back together, minus the clutch pack in the basket. I put the cover on to help support the kicker shaft, pulled the decompression lever, and eased the lever through one full stroke. I let off it, it reset and I put my foot on it again to ease it over again, and everything locks up. Any suggestions?

Also, I noticed some differences in parts on my bike compared to Mr. Cob's tutorial:

the washer on inside end of the kicker shaft is cut to match the splines instead of being a regular flat washer as per Mr. Cob

The gear on the kicker shaft that meshes w/ the kicker idler gear is not flush/at the same height as the idler gear.

I have not added any parts to the bike, it is exactly as I got it w/ the parts installed. The bike ran great, and I have only ever started the bike w/ the kicker as the battery is flat.

Any help? Pics would be great as I learn easiest that way. lol

Thanks

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Is the ratchet spring still installed? Ratchet stop on properly? Are you sure that basket is properly seated on the primary nut, waterpump and idler gears? I would wonder if not having the idler retainer could be an issue, interestingly it's not mentioned to reinstall the retainer in the kicker kit instructions yet the detailed thread I used stated it's needed. I put it on and it my kicker works fine.

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Matt,

Everything is lined up and correctly positioned on the kicker shaft. Ratchet spring included. Ratchet stop is on properly aslo. W/ the clutch basket off, when I rotate the shaft by hand in the direction of kicking the bike over, the ratchet gear pushes toward the driven(?) gear on the kicker shaft. When I release the shaft back to it's relaxed/stowed position, the ratchet gear disengages the driven(?) gear and the driven gear will spin freely. However, w/ the clutch basket installed, minus the nut(I'm just placing the parts together loosely to check operation), and I got to put any force onto the kicker shaft in the direction of normal rotation, it locks up...I'm wondering if maybe I have the bike in gear? Normally I'd just pull the clutch lever in, but since the clutch is not assembled and installed....lol

I'm really curious about the spring washer on the kicker shaft. Is is supposed to be cut to match the splines of the kicker shaft? What about the driven(?) kicker gear not being exactly level w/ the idler gear? Any thoughts?

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I'm going to put the retainer bracket back in, just waiting on the parts to show up. I can't tell that there's any damage from not having the retainer, but I'd rather have it then not.

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I would try testing things with side cover back on. I'm thinking that maybe the shaft is binding being as that it's not fully supported by the side cover. Also make sure that the clutch basket is engaging the primary gear, water pump gear and the idler gear. If I recall that was a bit of pita. I believe the clutch will partial engage both the idler and the primary while

hanging up on the water pump. As far as the alignment of the idler and the washer goes I honestly can't remember as it's been months since I installed mine.

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I have been putting the cover back on. All the gears meshed when I had the cover on, minus the water pump gear, because I have the pump shaft out for the RTV fix atm. I can't see how the lack of that would cause anything to bind up...I had a bit of an issue w/ the oil pump gear hanging up the works, but rocking it back and forth, everything dropped into place and meshed up nicely.

I'm wondering if there was a revision to the kit and they changed the washer? I don't know. But, it was working just fine when I took it apart. lol

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Ok, so I've got the retainer bracket, and assembled everything back together, and the kick start lever is still locked up solid when I go to put any amount of weight on it to move it through a rotation. All the kickstart add on parts are accounted for and installed now. The gears are timed/located to the marks on the kicker shaft, and indexed properly for the install(at about the 4 0'clock position)clutch unit is in, and the side cover is on, minus the clutch cover...I'm at a loss.

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Does the motor spin freely when you turn the clutch, does it turn with the starter? Have you isolated that it's a kick start problem(remove the kickstarter and try turning the engine). There's so few parts with kicker assembly I'm wonder if there's not something else wrong. FYI don't know if tried kick a drz yet but it's sure is nothing like a 125. Are you sure it's just not the engine compressing?

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Ok, I bit the bullet and got a new battery for the bike as the old one was toast. So, using the e-start only, w/ the clutch off, the engine wouldn't spin. I put a breaker bar on the primary nut, and turned it counter clockwise. It turned about 2 full turns before coming to a solid stop. Letting go of the nut, the engine turned clockwise about a 1/4 of a turn. W/ the clutch assy off, the kick start seems to operate normally. It ratchets and springs back. Hitting the e-start, the engine will rotate the same number of turns forward, as when I rotate the engine backwards w/ the breaker bar...and then stops solid. The kick start will rotate the engine also, but only as far as the e-start will. I'm using the decompression lever, as mine is a "E" model. The engine would also rotate w/ the clutch on, but only the almost 2 full turns. I don't believe the kicker has anything to do w/ the problem anymore.

I'm begging to think that something must have got out of whack when I broke the primary nut loose to locktight it. I did the primary nut while I was waiting on the retainer bracket to show up for the kick idler gear. I don't think I tested the kicker w/ all the parts in place before I did the primary nut. The index marks(dots on the gears driven off the primary, line up as best I can tell for how far the engine will rotate.

I'm wondering if the timing chain slipped and now I have a valve meeting the piston being that the cams are out of sync to the crank??! Is that even a remote possiblity? I'm not a knowledgeable motor head. At least when it comes to piston engines. I know how they work, but the finer points, eh...

I don't know how many miles or hours are on the bike either, so I can't give an accurate idea of how much it's been ridden. It's an '03, if that helps any...

Thanks again.

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Ok, I got it figured out. It wasn't the kick start holding things up, it was the cam timing. Guess it skipped when I used a impact gun to get the primary nut off... Everything is going back together atm. :smirk:

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Thanks. It was stumping me and frustrating me to no end. I did end up getting pulled over last night though after I got it all back together. haha

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So it runs fine now with the cam timing corrected? I guess that means that "Hitting the e-start, the engine will rotate..and then stops solid" doesn't apply enough force to bend a valve when it hits the piston?

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