Rear Shock rebuild - DIY

The bumpstop on my bike is gone. Other than that the shock seems fine, although I know it could use some fresh oil and maybe a recharge. Anyway, I searched and searched for a detailed How-To on this. The best thing I could find was this:

http://idriders.com/proflex/files/shock%20service.pdf

I want to service the shock myself. However, I've never done this before so I'm trying to gather as much info before I dive in.

I still have at least one question though -

Can anyone tell me if the How-To in the link will get the shock broken down enough for me to replace the bumpstop.?

The piston comes off or underneath the bump stop is a jam nut locking the lower clevis to the shaft. The nitrogen/oil will escape when the clevis is removed.

Bump stop is full disassembly. The piston comes out of the body, then piston off the rod, disassemble the piston and valve stacks. You will want to replace the shaft seal. Need a special tool to put the seal-head back on the shaft. None of it is very hard to do. Then refill with oil and bleed the air out. That takes some practice to get right. The bladder has to come out and the compression valve out. It is a little involved for a cook book walk thru but you can teach yourself. When all done, it will need a nitrogen recharge.

The bumpstop on my bike is gone. Other than that the shock seems fine, although I know it could use some fresh oil and maybe a recharge. Anyway, I searched and searched for a detailed How-To on this. The best thing I could find was this:

http://idriders.com/proflex/files/shock%20service.pdf

I want to service the shock myself. However, I've never done this before so I'm trying to gather as much info before I dive in.

I still have at least one question though -

Can anyone tell me if the How-To in the link will get the shock broken down enough for me to replace the bumpstop.?

The CLEVIS DOES NOT NEED TO COME OFF FOR ANYTHING YOU DESCRIBE NEEDING TO DO..

OK with that out of the way,...

DO a You tube search, there are a lot of vid for the showa shock.. Go to MX TEch, and the down loads page.. they have a pdf on on a showa shock service.

In order to remove the valve and shim stack you have to grind the peen off the nut/shaft, without removing the peen around the center hole in the shaft which retains the needle ..

So a grinder and steady hand is needed.. Other then that, an IN LB tq Wrench, hand tools, picks, and a set up to charge the shock (or take it to a shop)

You will also need to buy or make a tool to remove the compression valve from the shock body.. You can grind down a deep well socket so it fits the flats of the valve, and then add some steel straps around the circumference.. Or you can just buy the tool...

A Seal bullet tool is not a have to have, nor is the tool to seat the seal head.... The right tools make the job easier for sure, and I will not do the job without them these days,, but did many a shock before I had the right tools.

You will also need to buy or make a tool to remove the compression valve from the shock body.. You can grind down a deep well socket so it fits the flats of the valve, and then add some steel straps around the circumference.. Or you can just buy the tool...

Ok so i got it all apart and everything WAS looking good. The the wire i used to hold my valve stack together came undone and the stack got all mixed up. :smirk:

Anyway, I'm hoping someone out there has the specs for a stock DRZ400e rear showa shock.

Any one? Eddie?

Oh crap. That is the one thing you don't want to do. I did not revalve my DRZ shock so no I don't have the shim stack. It will be unique to DRZ400 E or S or SM. Maybe even for the production year. Try Eddie or E.Marquez

Oh crap. That is the one thing you don't want to do. I did not revalve my DRZ shock so no I don't have the shim stack. It will be unique to DRZ400 E or S or SM. Maybe even for the production year. Try Eddie or E.Marquez

He did via PM.. Problem I'm HERE Map_Afghanistan.gifand my suspension data is >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>maps?hl=en&q=map+kempner,+texas&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hq=&hnear=0x865ab9a07026269f:0x440f0733ec581136,Kempner,+TX&gl=us&ei=43LWTaz7LYj8vQPJy5C0Bw&sa=X&oi=geocode_result&ct=image&resnum=1&ved=0CBoQ8gEwAA.

Ok so i got it all apart and everything WAS looking good. The the wire i used to hold my valve stack together came undone and the stack got all mixed up. :smirk:

Anyway, I'm hoping someone out there has the specs for a stock DRZ400e rear showa shock.

Any one? Eddie?

It's not a big deal, try asking in the suspension forum. Hope you have a set of digital calipers tho.

Ok so here's what I've pieced together so far for my stock drz400e rear showa shock:

# of shims/thickness in mm/diameter in mm

Starting at the piston on the Compression side:

4) .20x44

3) .15x44

1) .15x34

1) .10x26

1) .20x42

1) .20x40

1) .20x38

1) .20x36

1) .20x34

1) .25x32

1) .25x30

1) .25x28

1) .25x26

1) .25x24

1) .25x22

1) .30x20

2) .30x40

PLATE

Starting at the piston, Rebound side:

6) .20x40

1) .10x25

1) .20x40

1) .25x38

2) .25x36

1) .25x34

1) .30x32

1) .30x30

1) .30x28

1) .30x26

1) .30x24

1) .60x25

PLATE

That leaves me with 1) .60x18

I'm not quite sure where to put that one. Any ideas? Does everything else sound right?

goes after the .60 x 25 in the rebound stack.

Thanks! Does everything else look right?

yes,seems right.

If you have any issues with your shock take or ship to to JM Racing in Spring Texas North of Houston - they are great and have all the suspension parts and knowledge you will ever need.

www.JM-Racing.com

25700 Interstate 45 # 121, Spring - (281) 353-7729

Could you tell me a DRZ 400E shock shims ID and fork rebound shims ID? Thanks.

goes after the .60 x 25 in the rebound stack.

I suspect you are wrong. I stumbled across the same problem, after shock disassembly. I left with the same shim but I've noticed that there's a faint print on the shaft side of base plate, which is exactly same size as this shim. So I conclude that in stock this shim probably goes between base plate and shock shaft. Can someone else confirm this? Also I will answer my previous question myself: shock shims are 12 mm ID, fork rebound shims are 6 mm ID...

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