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Got my first dirtbike

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Well, got my first bike and i would like some help, first of all it's a 2001 kx 60 and it's a little small for me but it seems good for at least this summer. Any way here are my questions...1) The local Dealer told me that honda tranny oil (80w-85) is like the only thing that will runcorrectly in dirt bike, i'm skeptical because that happens to be the most expensive thing there(in terms of tranny oil) and because my clymer manual says 10w-30 or 40 willwork. What do they mean by that???? any 10w-30 motor oil will work or just motorcycle oil? oh and if you don' tmind i'd like to know the cheapest tranny oil you've ran in your bike with out problems(details please!!). i would also like to know if i did something wrong when i put a new gasket on the right side crankcase?clutch cover. It won't stop leaking!:banghead:it doesn't leak to muchto not run just like a drop or two every 10 mins, but it's enuf for me to know i need to fix it. One more thing the spark fouled pretty fast, like 15 mins, however i mainly let it idle i think that mite cause it? how long does a two stroke half to idle to foul a plug? and also would a bent jet needle have any thing too do with af ouled plug?(new needle on the way). there is also a very small rip on the air filter boot but i thought i sealed it with some rubber sealer i found at a local hardware store if i didn't could this foul a plug? and still on theplug subjest i accidentally ran it for like 3 mins at very high rpm's(Moving of course) with the choke open..... i am almost posotove this would foul a plug but would it damage any thing else? Oh actiully there is still one more thing sorry about the massive post when i lean it to right a little further than the kick would be when its open fuel comes out of the carb... this seemed too light of an angle. (float level right)? so thats about it like i said sorry for the long post but i'm really new too this and any help would be appreciated. Thanks!!!:smirk:

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oh ya and when i let off the clutch sometimes it jerks forwards and dies hower it always has a huge jerk how slow am i supposed to let off the clutch?

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The local Dealer told me that honda tranny oil (80w-85) is like the only thing that will run correctly in dirt bike

I always run 80 weight transmission oil (Maxima MTL) in my two-strokes. Don't run the cheapest oil you can find, it will cost you more in the long term. I don't know anything about your particular bike, but if it's like mine, the oil covers both the gears and the clutch, so running crappy oil can mess up the clutch...

i would also like to know if i did something wrong when i put a new gasket on the right side crankcase?clutch cover. It won't stop leaking!

Ummm, well, if it's leaking, you probably did something wrong... :smirk:

One more thing the spark fouled pretty fast, like 15 mins, however i mainly let it idle i think that mite cause it?

Yes, idling could have caused it to foul, especially if the jetting isn't correct.

Oh actiully there is still one more thing sorry about the massive post when i lean it to right a little further than the kick would be when its open fuel comes out of the carb...

Maybe someone who is familiar with your bike can answer that...

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Well, if you're serious...

1) The local Dealer told me that honda tranny oil (80w-85) is like the only thing that will runcorrectly in dirt bike, i'm skeptical because that happens to be the most expensive thing there(in terms of tranny oil) and because my clymer manual says 10w-30 or 40 willwork. What do they mean by that???? any 10w-30 motor oil will work or just motorcycle oil? oh and if you don' tmind i'd like to know the cheapest tranny oil you've ran in your bike with out problems(details please!!).

It's fine to use a non-Energy Conserving oil of the proper weight per the manual in the tranny. It doesn't have to be something your dealer says to use or the oil police will show up.

i would also like to know if i did something wrong when i put a new gasket on the right side crankcase?clutch cover. It won't stop leaking!:banghead:it doesn't leak to muchto not run just like a drop or two every 10 mins, but it's enuf for me to know i need to fix it.

Get another gasket. Make sure the sealing surface is clean and free of dirt or nicks. Use a torque wrench and tighten the cover bolts according to the manual.

One more thing the spark fouled pretty fast, like 15 mins, however i mainly let it idle i think that mite cause it?

Yep, it can. Might only take a few minutes. If you're not riding on the pipe, a plug one heat range hotter should help

would a bent jet needle have any thing too do with a fouled plug?

Yep, it can.

there is also a very small rip on the air filter boot but i thought i sealed it with some rubber sealer i found at a local hardware store if i didn't could this foul a plug?

If you covered a bunch of the filter with goo, maybe. Just get a new filter and be done with it.

i accidentally ran it for like 3 mins at very high rpm's(Moving of course) with the choke open..... i am almost posotove this would foul a plug but would it damage any thing else?

only if you over-revved it, but you'd know if you broke it by now.

when i lean it to right a little further than the kick would be when its open fuel comes out of the carb... this seemed too light of an angle. (float level right)?

Sounds reasonable. Can't hurt to check it. Use the manual.

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I found some 10w-40 FOUR STROKE oil for motorcycles at a local auto store i belive this willwork but likei've said numerous times i'm new to this and i wanna double check that fourstroke oil will work in a 2 stroke transmission. Also i checked the jet, its 200! that seemed a little high especially because i like to trail will the occasional racing my cousins. What do you think will a 140 jet work? i just want to stop as much fouling as possible. And thanks guys for all your patience.

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Yep, 4T motorcycle oil will work just fine in a 2T tranny. Gears are gears. :smirk:

There's a process to finding the right jet, and it isn't just picking one and running with it.

The skinny version is to go down 1 jet size at a time and ride the bike WOT. Then check the spark plug after a "chop". (kill the engine while still WOT).

If the spark plug ever gets a white insulator, stop and go back 1 jet size richer.

If the bike starts losing power, you're too lean. Go back 1 jet size richer.

The better way to do this is to tune the carb in stages. I usually start with the pilot circuit (so the thing "idles" [more or less] and doesn't foul the plug after a short idle) an get the right pilot jet and the airscrew set to between 1-turn open to 2 1/2 turns open from fully closed. Then the main jet gets set for best power, no fouling, and "not too white" on the sparkplug insulator. Then the needle gets set to "best power" in midrange. Some of this is a tradeoff to minimize bogs or other weirdness you can get. I hope that makes sense. There are plenty of threads on this and since it's a KX60, it's probably a good idea to search in that forum.

Trail riding (off the pipe) usually needs a leaner jet than MX, so you're on the right track thinking this way. Whatever you do, don't run that 2T too lean or you'll be putting a top end in it right quick. That means knowing that you'll be "leaner" on the pipe so you can't really wring it out like your racing buddies can, and you'll need to open the throttle once in a while during long decels to keep the top end lubricated. A quick way to trash a top end is to ride hard WOT and then coast with the throttle closed. Try and keep it on the pipe once you get used to it. A dark, dry spark plug is okay. Wet isn't great, and bright white is bad. It's a little hard to tell sometimes with today's pump gas, so take your time on it. Your wallet will thank you. Good luck! :smirk:

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Thanks alot for all the information really helps. and i'm sorry but if you'll bear with me..WOT? and by to lean you mean fuel air? or oil:gas i figure fuel air and will a smaller jet make it to lean? i'm also guessing you mentioned lean being bad and white plug being bad. they probably go hand in hand. it's mildly wet but mostly black. I guess i will try a 190 jet unless you stop me.

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Yep. +1 above.

opening the airscrew leans the pilot (idle) circuit.

Dropping the needle 1 clip (put the clip closer to the slotted end) leans the midrange.

Dropping a size (190 vs. 200) on the main jet (MJ) leans the main fuel circuit.

Do one thing at a time. It will take a while to get the bike jetted the way you like it.

It's fine that the plug is mostly black. You will want it to be dry and grey or dry and tan, but don't sweat perfection. Dry and black will be okay too. A 190 will be fine to install and see what happens and it's fine to go smaller on the MJ as long as you keep an eye on the plug color and stay on the rich side of the jetting. That said, you should fix the float problem before you bother with the jetting. Lowering the fuel level in the float bowl tends to lean the jetting somewhat, so take care of the problem things first (including the air filter boot*).

* I just realized that you were talking about the boot and not the filter. A dirty or over-oiled filter can make the bike run rich. A torn boot will tend to make the bike run lean (by bypassing the restriction of the air filter), but far worse than that allows dirt to get into the engine and can kill an engine in a hurry. If you're not confident of your repair of the boot, it's probably best to spend a few $$ and just replace it.

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