Removing Throttle Return Cable

I recently read about a bunch of guys removing their throttle return cable and how they liked it, how it reduced some arm pump, and made for a smoother throttle. So, I tried it in my last race (harescramble).

I did feel like the throttle was smoother and I did feel like I would have had reduced arm pump, but I dont normally have issues with arm pump to begin with.

On one of my laps I had a slow speed tip over in a stream, nothing too bad. Picked 'er up, one or two kicks, and I was back in the race. But, for a little while after my tip over, say almost an entire lap, my throttle was not closing completely when I let off. In fact I had to twist it back manually for the last couple of millimeters, and even then my throttle wasn't completely off. I had to pull my clutch to stop ALL acceleration. It wasn't anything crazy though, nothing I couldnt control with my clutch. And, after a little while the engine speed would return to idle.

So, my question is this. Those of you who have removed the throttle return cable, are you just removing the cable and half of the plastic housing that feeds the two cables into the throttle cam/tube? This is what I did but it seems a little iffy. With only one half of the plastic cable housing, there is a void which allows the remaining half to sort of flail around if you will. If you dont understand what I mean, let me know and I will post a picture of what I am talking about.

thanks

Jake

Not to sound like a prude, but most high-performance applications run either a push/pull cable or a pull/pull setup for safety. You should have someway to manually close your throttle. Right now you're relying on a rather small torsion spring in the carb to do all the work. As you've already found out, one crash and you ran into a situation where you couldn't close your thottle. Imagine if that happened but instead of hte last few milliimeters, your throttle was stuck half open or WOT. Most race cars will use a dual spring setup (one on the carb, one on the pedal), plus a toe-strap so you can manually pull it closed if required. If you don't suffer from arm pump to begin with, why take the risk? You want a smoother throttle, by some high-end super smooth cables from mcmaster carr and have a blast.

Not having a closing cable is not an issue on todays modern dirt bikes. The throttle return spring is plenty strong enough. The slide is riding on bearings. In the old days, this was not the case and the return cable was needed.

My guess is when you dropped the bike that the cable got is a bind somewhere and was causing your problem. Double check how the cable is running under the gas tank.

I haven't run a return cable for years. I did not remove the return cable assy.though. I just unhooked it at the carb. and the throttle tube, then pulled the excess towards the carb. and used a tie-wrap to hold it in place. Leave the return cable housing in place. You can use it as a spare if your pull cable ever gets damaged. Its not a perfect fit but it will get you out of the woods and back home.

Thanks L-vie. I'll take another look at it and maybe strap that return cable to my pull cable too. Nice peace of mind to know the spare is right there.

Im not too worried about my throttle getting stuck WFO. If it did I'd just clutch it and then hit the kill switch. yeah my race would be over, but i wouldnt get all mopped up.

I would like to try some of them fancy shmancy super smooth throttle cables and throttle tube set ups too, but the cash just aint there this month.

wet riding conditions causes stiction around slides, i have an old bike that needs its slides taken out and dried to stop sticky throttle in winter.

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