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flywheel puller for xt 350


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Most magnetos that use this type puller have a male threaded portion on the crankshaft that the puller pushes against. The XT has the same type of magneto, but a female threaded hole for the retaining bolt, vice a retaining nut. If you use the standard flywheel magneto puller there's a really good chance you'll mess up the threads. Yamaha sells this plug affair that goes into the hole and the puller pushes against it. I made my own from a bolt of the correct thread, with the head cut off and a screwdriver slot cut into it so I could install and remove it. Yamaha calls it a "thread protector" and their part number is YM1382. That and the valve shim tool are worth every penny. Making your own shim removal tool is sort of silly when you can buy it for about 8-12 bucks. (PN is YM4106) Other than Motion Pro, I can say from experience that when it comes to special tools, going to the Yamaha shop and getting it from them will be a better idea that most other places. The tools are high quality and last and last. My mag puller is from them, bought it after my previous one died in 1978, still have it, still works great. I have quite a few Yamaha special tools, all are first rate.

Find your free PDF manual here and download: http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp

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I've tried to get this manual previously but everytime I put in code, it goes to an error screen. Any thoughts?

It did that to me a few times as well, but then it finally worked. But now you have another source.

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Yes it does. Remove the bolt, install the crank plug and the puller, with the outer threaded part of the puller threaded in as far as it will go, tighten the puller center bolt until it has quite a load on it, then smack it with a hammer, but not real hard, as it could damage the crankshaft ball bearings. A sharp rap with a 5 pound hammer to the puller center bolt usually pops it off. Don't lose the woodruff key. it has most likely never been off. There's little reason to on ones with a CDI, the old points versions required pulling quite often.

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ok thanks for info. I had some problem gettin it off cause the bolt that I cut off was to short for puller to contact so I had to make another rig. But I gotta it off after about 1hr of fooling. Took 10min. to put it all back together. You ever had crank seal leak? That was my problem, i've never had any others do that before.

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Yes, sadly, I have had a few crank seals go bad. They were all in two strokes, but it is the same problem and solution. Carefully get the old one out without killing either the crankshaft or the cases, carefully, and lightly polish up both the cases and the crankshaft with some 400 wet or dry paper, and find a deep socket the same OD as the seal, and after greasing the seal lip where it rides on the crank. Give it a few whacks, make sure it is even and square with the cases, and you're done. Don't put anything on the outside of the seal where it fits into the cases. That side is fit dry.

Have fun!

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Hey, thought I was in the clear the other day after running my bike with side cover off. No leaks. Took bike on about a 35mile ride this weekend when it was hot. Than after sitting for 2 hrs, I noticed a small drip. Took cover off and oil trickled out of cover. Doesn't appear to be leaking around or through seal. Any other places that oil might could seep out? Thanks

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Hey, thought I was in the clear the other day after running my bike with side cover off. No leaks. Took bike on about a 35mile ride this weekend when it was hot. Than after sitting for 2 hrs, I noticed a small drip. Took cover off and oil trickled out of cover. Doesn't appear to be leaking around or through seal. Any other places that oil might could seep out? Thanks

The only thing I can think of is the screws that hold the two halves of the cases together, I don't think there's anything else in there. Could it be getting in via he harness hole? Not sure if it has a vent.

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