Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Stack Differences

Recommended Posts

I switched my MV from:

Piston

20 .11 x5

18 .11 x2

11 .25 x2

17 .30 x3

collar

8 .15 6id

to this:

20 .11 x3

18 .11 x2

16 .11

14 .11

11 .25 x2

17 .30 x3

collar

8 .15 6id

Bike is an '08 yz450f. Fork springs are .48, shock spring is stock (5.5 i think). Im 170lbs, intermediate mx. Im thinkin it should now have a little less ls comp. but gaining some hs comp?? Float is .20 on both setups. Was blowing through the stroke a little on the first stack so im hoping the second stack will help. Any opinions?? Depending on how it feels tomorrow, im already thinking i may want to add another face shim, and close the float up to .15 but i'll start with what ive got. Thanks in advance for your opinions :smirk:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

at least you softened the stack

i'm not sure whether that's what you was looking for

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A shim stack is linear. So you can't make a difference in high and low speed damping this way.

If the stack bottoms on the 17 0.30's you could gain high speed damping by reducing the opening distance.

With your stack you only make the bending line rounder. I think you won't feel it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

when ever you remove face shims on a mid you are always going to loose both high and low speed damping even with more shims in the taper

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

if you are 170, and running a 5.5kg shock spring what are your sag #'s?

are they within spec? 5.5 seems a little stiff for your weight. you may want to go with 105mm-108mm. then check the static numbers to see if the spring is right for you.

also, the pivot shim (clamp) in the mid is having an effect on the stack stiffness in the mid. if you add taper, the stack does become softer, but if you change the clamp, you can stiffen the stack that way as well. imho of course.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hhmm. So what if I add back the two face shims, and take out the 16 .11? Then I would have the five original face shims in there, and my float would change from .20 to .10?? From the original stack with the five face shims, i was looking for a little bit more damping everywhere, and for the forks to stay a little higher in the stroke on downhill heavy breaking. Would closing the float to .10 be too gnarly of a change? Thanks for the input btw.

Sag #'s are fine, cant remember exactly but they were within spec when I got my suspension back form the Company that originally revalved it for me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

if you want to hold the fork up more, you should close the float but dont increase stiffness. Only close it by the minumum amount as it soon adds to the stiffness.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I switched my MV from:

Piston

20 .11 x5

18 .11 x2

11 .25 x2

17 .30 x3

collar

8 .15 6id

to this:

20 .11 x3

18 .11 x2

16 .11

14 .11

11 .25 x2

17 .30 x3

collar

8 .15 6id

:

I would set you up this way.

mid

20.11x4

18.11x2

16.11

14.11

11.25x2

17.30x3

float .15

rebound

20.1x4

13.1

18.1

16.1

14.1

12.2 or 12.1x2

base

32.11x20

30.11

28.11

26.11

24.11

22.11

20.11

18.11

16.2

no passives on comp adjuster

if to stiff pull 5 of the 32.11 and re-test.

350cc outer

comp 10 R 10

.48 springs

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

455, The MV comp stack you suggest is exactly where im going next i think. Rode yesterday and i can tell you that even though the second stack was in fact I little softer, it had much better action all the way through the stroke. It was too soft for me, and didnt keep the front end up like I wanted under hard braking, but it didnt bottom hard at all. In fact, I was purposely over jumping a step down and landing in the flats on the front end and even though it bottomed, it just seemed to kiss, not CLANK!! A smaller float to keep it up, and one more face shim to add a little more damping everywhere I think will be a super good setup.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

dustin, bottoming isn't controlled by the mid (ok, that's not 100% true because everything plays together).

But what you experienced and analyzed correctly is the diving of the front end when braking.

That's exactly what is pretty much influenced by the mid

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I realize that as well. I just wanted to inform some folks that even though the stack was a bit softer, it didnt blow through the stroke near as bad as the first stack does. Also, even coming into turns lower than before, it wasnt harsh deep in the stroke at all like the first stack tended to be. I was just pointing out that IMO it is a better MV setup than stacking the face with little taper like the first setup, thats all. i was thinking that since the stack is softer, that it would blow right through the stroke and bottom harshly, and it didnt. Thanks for your input though, I have def learned a ton in the last few weeks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dustin, list your current base stack and passives if any?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

BV looks like this;

piston

32 .11 x16

30

28

26

24

22

21

20

19

18 .15

17 .25

20 1.6 washer x2

11 .25

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
BV looks like this;

piston

32 .11 x16

30

28

26

24

22

21

20

19

18 .15

17 .25

20 1.6 washer x2

11 .25

Looks fine and should work well once you add that extra 20.11 to the mid. :smirk:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By smokey9lives
      Hi,
      I have a 2003 DRZ (actually a KLX400) and the head tube bearings are shot.  I ordered a new set to install but I'm wondering if anyone has any recommendations on other parts I should replace while I have the front disassembled.  I was thinking about new rubber fork protectors, but are there other things that wear out on the DRZ front ends that you can only get to when disassambled?
      I also broke off a replacement key that I got for the steering lock.  I must have been made of cheap pot-metal.  Should I just remove the whole lock mechanism?
      Any tips or tricks for getting the old bearings out and the new ones in would be welcome!
      Thanks!
    • By hondahondo
      A few picks of my winter project.













    • By Luke Hufford
      Hey guys. I recently purchased a 16 yz250x and the first 2 rides i LOVED the suspension. Then the day before a race i reset all my clickers to stock and everything felt like crap. No plushness at all and deflected off everything. I now have a 5.4 shock spring for my 190 pound weight and dialed in sag. Any recommendations on where i should go from here? Right now the fork is 12 out on comp and 15 out on rebound. Shock is 1.75 turns out on hsc, 14 out on lsc, and 18 out on rebound. Any help would be appreciated!
    • By jake gu
      Today we’re going to be talking a little bit about automotive suspensions and how they work to smoothen the ride of your car. There are mainly three purposes of the automotive suspension system. First, they support the  weight of the vehicle. Second, they maintain accurate tire contact with the ground. And third, they absorb any shock that you get through the road when you hit a bump.
      Most modern vehicles come with an independent front suspension. Which means if one wheel hits a bump it does not disturb the other wheel. Nowadays, people use Coil Spring to support the majority of weight in the car. As it has a really good characteristics for absorbing any bumps as you go up and down on the road.
      However Springs aren’t very good at dissipating that energy. In fact that’s why you have the shock absorber. Which is there to smoothen out the ride and make sure the tire maintains contact with the road.
      In modern passenger vehicles the two most popular suspensions are McPherson strut and double wishbone style of suspension. The main advantage of the McPherson strut suspension is that it’s really cheap and simple that’s why a lot of manufacturers are moving towards this design. The double wishbone design allows the wheel to stay perpendicular to the body as it navigates a corner or as it goes over a bump. And that maintains good tire contact patch no matter where the wheel is situated. Another advantage of this design is that it can be made adjustable where you can control the position of upper control arms ball Joints.
      Click to Know More About Ball Joints and other Suspension Components
×