Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Bent subframe

Recommended Posts

My subframe is bent on my 09 CRF450 and I am going to try to straighten it opposed to buying a new one. Its not terrible, but standing behind the bike, its pushed about 1 1/2" to the left.

I am going to attack this thing this weekend but wondered if there is a trick or specific way to go about this? Should I lay the bike on its side and try to jump on it to bend it back? Should I leave it on the stand while someone holds it and go at it with a big hammer? I just need to bend it directly to the right.

Its hard to tell in the pic, but it is bent. Thanks in advance for any help.

subframe.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

all i know is aluminium will break if ya bend it enough. Have a plan "B", but for sure give it a go, they are not cheap. I have been riding with one bent not quite that bad for years, and the lower mount has broke 2x and had to have welded..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just done this the other day.

Equipment required:

1. About 6" of 4x4.

2. Sledge hammer

3. Idiot to hold the wood.

One solid hit & straight as a die......:smirk:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just lean it against a tree and kick it back. Or put a long pipe inside the swingarm and pry it back.

O, and it's not hard to tell by the pic...it's bent as shit.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just done this the other day.

Equipment required:

1. About 6" of 4x4.

2. Sledge hammer

3. Idiot to hold the wood.

One solid hit & straight as a die......:smirk:

x2 works every time! Done it many times

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'v strighten them before by laying the bike on its side in your case right side with a block of wood under the frame by the foot peg and straped 2" x 6' pipe to the sub frame and pushed it down just go a little at a time I would not beat on it if you dont have too

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

all you need is 2 300hp tractors, 2 ratchet heavy duty ratchet straps and that will do the trick. ratchet the bike to one tractor and then put the other ratchet strap on the sub frame and ratchet away, this way you can slowly bend it back until its nearly perfect

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
all you need is 2 300hp tractors, 2 ratchet heavy duty ratchet straps and that will do the trick. ratchet the bike to one tractor and then put the other ratchet strap on the sub frame and ratchet away, this way you can slowly bend it back until its nearly perfect

I take it you are having a laugh.........:smirk:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

2fiftyryrer is right! trees or truck hitches will work to.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm with you brother. I will straightening mine tonight as well...

Good luck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the quick responses guys. Now I have some ideas. I will let yall know how it goes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By 33KTM350
      I just bought a Magura hydraulic clutch for my 2014 CRF450R.  Bought it thinking install would be easy, and I'm not sure that's the case now that I have the product in my hands.  I have searched the forums, YouTube, etc for install help specifically for my model year (2013 and 2014 are same really), and haven't found anything specific for the 2013-2014 model install at all.  Instructions from Magura are TERRIBLE, and are not specific at all to the Honda - generic instructions - so I'm debating if I want to return the product, cuz I don't want trouble or a big install job.  Question: for the 2013-2014 CRF450R install ONLY of a Magura Hymec hydraulic clutch - other model years are different and thus it won't be helpful for other model years - do you have any tips or feedback?  My concerns are below...
      1.  The 2014 model has a sleeve behind the clutch actuation arm that the Magura clutch slave cylinder fits into.  Stock, the sleeve holds one end of the cable, with a nut on the other end to keep the cable end tight in the sleeve.  The Magura slave cylinder, however, slides into the mounting sleeve  - but does NOT have a nut: the tension from the clutch actuation arm pulling on the metal Magura slave cyl tip end is apparently supposed to keep the Magura slave cylinder tight in the mounting sleeve.  Q: Will the Magura slave fit in to the mounting sleeve easily, stay tight, and is there any adjustment needed in order to keep the 4-6mm of freeplay that Magura recommends?  How easy is it to get the Magura slave fitted into the sleeve and the metal tip in place?  Is there enough freeplay between slave and tip end to mount in actuating arm AND the holding sleeve, so that the holding sleeve doesn't need to be unbolted?  
      2. The stock clutch cable and OEM setup runs out of the mounting sleeve (see pics marked "metal starts", and then runs through a metal sleeve that routes the cable through the engine compartment - keeping the cable away from the hot parts of the engine case, so as not to melt the cable insulation (I believe).  That metal sleeve is about 6-8 inches in length.  The Magura clutch cable, on the other hand, exits the Magura slave cylinder at an angle - yet has no such metal routing.  I don't think the OEM metal routing sleeve will accept the Magura cable either, so a) the OEM metal routing sleeve would have to be removed first before installing the Magura - and then b) you have to hope that the Magura cable can be routed in such a way with zip ties holding the hydraulic line that line will not touch or be close to the hot metal engine casing as you route it through the engine.  Q: how easy was it to get the OEM clutch cable and metal routing sleeve out?  Easy as unscrewing the nut on the other end of the OEM cable, on the other side of the black rubber cable flange in my pics?   
      3.  My stock clutch pull isn't bad.  I just like the feel of a hydro clutch.  Any feedback on how much better feeling and easier pull will be with the Magura?  What's your feedback on the difference?  FYI, I'm leaving my clutch plates and springs stock.    
       




    • By Eric Blasiman
      We have a 2016 CRF450R with about 11 hours out. never ridden hard always check the oil and change when needed along with the air filter. Took care of the recall that was required as well. Well when riding the bike was stalled out. Went to try and kick start the bike again. the kick start lever just back up jamming my knee into the handle bars and some how ended up cracking the case right by where the kick start goes through the case. Has any one had this happen or heard of this happening? What is the cause? 
    • By crfjunky1320
      Any advice on what should be replaced while I have the top end off for a valve replacement. Will do headgasket and springs of course, anything other parts you would recommend while I'm going at it?
       
      Thanks!
    • By Ron Whitfeld
      The dirtbike is on it's forth year right now on the same motor job. I have to jump start it. Is it worth me trading for a 2009 650 brute force with7000 miles? Need some expert advice. Thanks 
    • By Lucas Hansen
      Just wondering what you guys do to remove black marks on your seat. My 08 crf450r has the red/black seat, and after each ride there are some black marks on the red from my riding pants. Not scuff marks, more like patches of black residue from my pants rubbing on the seat. I’ve tried the magic eraser which seemed to do the trick, but lately they seem like they aren’t coming off. Also tried scrubbing bubbles with a brush and no luck. Not too worried cuz I have an spare OEM seat, but I’d like to keep this one nice. Any ideas? Maybe I shouldn’t wear black pants?
×