Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

What need to happen with my valves ?

Recommended Posts

Ok so i need(ed) my valves replacing , i took the head to a local parts shop and the owner said that he would order some new valves and fit them for me ..

He told me that seats don't always need re-cutting and that mine didn't , But i have read on these forums that seats do need cutting to ensure good valve life ..

I also don't know if he ordered in a whole valve kit or just valves (no springs etc.)

My clearance's zero'd twice and was shimmed at least 3 times ( bought 2nd hand so i dont know about before i bought)

Now im confused as hell , do the springs need to be replaced as well as everything else associated with valves ? or just valves ?

Also do i need the seats cutting ?

This guy isn't a mechanic or anything , he is just a rider who opened a shop and im starting to wonder if he knows what he is doing or just trying to make a bit of money without actually doing the job correctly

I aint rich and i need these valves to last as long as possible , which is why i need them putting in as correctly as possible ..

Im thinking about ringing the shop up and asking for my head back before he goes and puts these valves in ( the valves should arrive at his shop on money)

Oh and these are intake valves only , exhaust stayed in spec

Please any answers are appreciated here ..Thanks in advance

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

if he's doing SS inlets you also have to use the compatible springs etc as the valves are heavier than the OEM Titanium inlets

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Go get your head and find a new mechanic who knows what he is doing. This guy obviously has no idea how to do a proper valve job. New valves must always be put in with a seat that has been resurfaced. It will cost you a little more but the valves will last alot longer. If you put new valves in your head without getting the seats cut your new valves will soon be garbage. Even though the exhaust valves are in spec the guides my not be, and the seals most likely need replacing.

You can spend a little more now, or a lot more later.

Check out crfheads.com or crfsonly.com

Edited by Keith72
added links

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the reply's ,

Ive decided to get my head on Monday and take it to a good mechanic (one that has a good reputation and does lots of works on MX bikes)

I really wish i would have just taken it there in the first place now , I am going to buy the valves from the shop that my head is at and then take the head for seat cutting and new valves putting in at the good mechanics ..

And do you guys know about the springs ? the guy at the shop ordered titanium valves like i already have but im wondering if i need springs to go with them ? or do i just use the old ones ? I dont have a clue if he ordered the whole kit (I hope he did) ..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I dont really think springs are reusable. I suppose you could but its probably better to get new springs and retainers and valve seals.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah i guessed you would "need" new springs and i would feel 100 times better with a whole new set .. now i just have to hope the guy at the shop was smart enough to order the whole set ..

Thanks for all the help guys

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When you redo a head, you will only get out of the head what you put into it. You would definatly want to have the seats cut to ensure correct contact with valve. Also, springs do need to be replaced. They are cheap enough its not a problem, and it is assurance to have new ones put in. Also, as stated above, make sure they check valve guide conditions. If the guides are gone, it would only be a matter of time and burned oil to find you were back at base one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah i actually booked the head in at a good mechanic who actually know exactly what there doing ,

He agree's the other guy didnt have a clue about valves ..

It will get done correctly now :smirk:

Thanks for all the reply's , they did help a lot

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By Callum Hunter
      I'm quite new to the moto scene and I've got a '09 CRF250R in need of what I believe is a top end rebuild. I've never gotten a rebuild before so I'm unfamiliar with the process and the steps to take in getting this done in a safe and efficient manner. I was wondering if anyone knew of any reputable shops in or near Vancouver, Canada (where I live) that could look at my bike and help me out with my situation. About 6 months ago I got an inspection on the bike and the shop told me that my cam bearings had "spun in their journals", requiring the installation of a new cam along with the rebuild. I haven't had anything done to the bike since the inspection so the motor is still in this state. She's running but I'm afraid that the motor is a ticking time bomb and would like a shop to take a look at it, let me know what needs to be replaced and get the rebuild done without me worrying about getting taken advantage of. I'm currently out of the country in school but have plans to get this done once I'm back. Any tips, recommendations, or help would be greatly appreciated!
    • By Kadensmith44
      I’m wanting to powder coat my bike but it’s all new to me. I’ve got a powder coater picked out that I’ve heard is good for what I’m doing. I’m not 100% what kind of sand blaster I need and what kind of media. I have also heard you can’t cook in the oven after you’ve baked your parts is that true?
    • By luke8500
      Hi all, 
      I have a 2004 honda crf250r and it wont start hot at all. The motor was just rebuilt with a new cylinder and piston. The valves were just adjusted. It will start cold in 1 or 2 kicks with choke but as soon as it gets hot it wont start. If you bump start it the motor will just turn over without starting.  sometimes it will start. It runs great until you shut it off.  im thinking its either a fuel issue or an electrical issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated. 
    • By SandSoldier
      Hello! This listing is for my 2007 Honda CRF250R dirt bike. Last winter I spun the rod bearing and just recently finished rebuilding it. Selling to fund new bike. I am currently the second owner.

      Current registration valid until 2020, pink slip in hand.

      Fresh parts:
      -top end kit: Wiseco; forged, moly skirt coated, 12.9:1 comp ratio (new wrist pin, gaskets, etc)
      -cylinder: new OEM
      -bottom end kit: Wiseco; (new bearings, seals, etc)
      -oil pump: new OEM
      -head studs & nuts: new OEM

      -fresh oil and filter
      -all tolerances checked in top end
      -valves adjusted
      -carb adjusted

      Note:
      *rebuild was done by my dad (master tech at CAT) and I (4th year mechanical engineering student)
      *has maybe 15 minutes on new parts, IT HAS NOT BEEN PROPERLY BROKEN IN YET
      *I have email receipts, pics of rebuild, and old parts as proof of rebuild, just ask and I'll show em off

      Other parts:
      -90% tread on front and rear tires
      -excell takasago front wheel
      -custom aluminum skid plate
      -wrap around hand guards
      -spark arrestor
      -kickstand

      Feel free to ask for any more specifics or pictures!

      LOCAL PICK UP ONLY

      Thanks!
    • By Matt Ray
      Okay so the title is a little vague. 
      So it was having trouble idling and even starting when I first bought it about a month ago for $2k. 
      So I did a rough clean of carb, looked up on YouTube, Forums, Etc on how to do it. I only cleaned jets with carb cleaner and sprayed around the float bowl area and such, so not too extensive.
      Did that and I took it out to a park, It would start up right away mostly, few kicks sometimes, but when I got it started, I had to keep the choke on. Right when I was ready to go fast and go up to 3rd and 4th gear I'd switch it off and it would work fine and sound fine and everything, but when I slowed back down and coasted around 1st gear i'd pop it back out again because it sounded like it was going to do. I have some videos if people would like me to link to them.
       
      So after that I decided to take it apart and replace spark plug with OEM NGK R0409B-8, replace main jet from a old 170 to a new 170, replaced pilot jet from a old 40 to a new 42, and kept starter jet the same just made sure that wasn't clogged, ordered a new adjustable fuel screw and used that.
      and it was still having a little bit of problems! I just started up today and the day before today. It would run only with choke on, if i twisted throttle in neutral it sounded pretty good, no gun shot noises or anything, pretty smooth. 
      If I tried to take choke off it would die immediately. So I started it back up again, took around 6 kicks.. So again with choke on it sounded like it was starting to lose power and RPM's would drop so I'd twist throttle a few times and it would stay idling.. then after a small amount of time, start to sound like its about to die again... so I would rev it up again, and repeat..
       
      Fuel line isn't clogged, flows fine.
      I tried fuel screw everywhere between 1 and 2 turns out..
      I checked valve clearances, and I'm no expert but from the videos I watched the slipped underneath intake and exhaust with only minor force.
      So I'm lost.. 
      Maybe float bowl is messed up? Should I just do a COMPLETE carb rebuild from videos I've seen on youtube, like this one -> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3AXb9UprT30? Or what? 
       
      It's getting annoying taking it apart all the time, I jsut want it to start up quickly and run well!!
       
      Thank you!
       
      Austin, TX, Elevation 600ft, where I ride its around 900ft
       
       
×