Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

frozen chain adjuster

Recommended Posts

I just got a 2000 CR250 and the chain adjuster bolt is frozen. I have read in this forum to use heat to loosen it. My question is do I heat the bolt or swingarm? I would think heating the bolt would make it softer and easier to break. Heating the swingarm would cause it to expand, loosening the bolt? :smirk:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Heat the swingarm. You can also spray some pb blaster in the drain holes at the back/bottom of the swingarm if it has them. I would just be careful doing that if you use heat so you don't end up with a fire.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Patience is the key to getting it out without breaking it. Use PB Blaster on it, then wait at least overnight before you touch it. Use more PB Blaster, then see if you can get any movement on the bolt, in or out. Never use too much force, just use lots of PB blaster then wait another day before attempting to move the bolt again. Work it in and out again slowly. If it's still finding resistance, continue to allow the PB Blaster to soak overnight. Even the worst seized bolts will come out after a few days if you are patient and don't try to force the bolt out too fast.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i don;t think its possible to heat the swing arm without heating the bolt to .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Patience is the key to getting it out without breaking it. Use PB Blaster on it, then wait at least overnight before you touch it. Use more PB Blaster, then see if you can get any movement on the bolt, in or out. Never use too much force, just use lots of PB blaster then wait another day before attempting to move the bolt again. Work it in and out again slowly. If it's still finding resistance, continue to allow the PB Blaster to soak overnight. Even the worst seized bolts will come out after a few days if you are patient and don't try to force the bolt out too fast.

+1 you can speed this up by removing the rear wheel and swing arm from the bike and prop it up against a wall so gravity helps the p.b blaster move in

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yea do everything you can NOT to break the bolt. Its real easy to. I broke mine off. So i went to the hardware store and bought a brand new drill bit started drilling out the bolt and "SNAP" the drill bit broke. I was screwed. Ended up going online and buying adjustment blocks that puts the adjustment on the back of the swingarm. I would shoot you the links but i cant remember the name of the guy that made them(real small personal shop)

Bottom line do what the guys are saying take your time, I would even go so far to drill a small hole at the bottom of the swingarm so you can spray pb blaster on the backside/inside of the bolt.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By D.Barrett
      Kicking around the idea of selling my CR250. I have other bikes and never get a chance to ride this one.

      This is a well-maintained bike with tons of aftermarket parts. It's set up primarily for woods/single-track riding, but will still do just fine on an MX track.

      Engine:
      -Fresh Pro-X top end(<1 hour)
      -FMF Gnarly pipe & FMF Shorty silencer(<1 hour on fresh packing)
      -PWK Air-Striker Carburetor(bought new from JD Jetting last year)
      -Steahy 10oz. Flywheel Weight
      -Boyesen Rad Valve with Carbon-fiber reeds
      -TwinAir air filter

      Misc:
      -Excel Pro-Series Wheels(19"/21")
      -Brand-new Shinko tires(546 Front, 505 Cheater Rear not mounted yet) w/ Heavy-duty tubes
      -Works Connection Radiator Guards
      -Skid Plate
      -FMF Factory 909 Handlebars
      -Polished Frame
      -Sunstar 13/51 Steel Sprockets(new in box)

      I'm sure I'm missing a few odds and ends. Comes with a Bill of Sale only. (708)287-1998 - Dave
    • By waldo
      Parting out 2000 cr 250r: frame 150.00, seat with brand new fx cover 30.00, sub frame 30.00, pro circuit works pipe 50.00, kick starter 10 bucks, tank with shrouds 30.00, rear shock 45.00, swing arm 40.00.  make offer on all other parts in picture. Buyer pays shipping from 36092 zip. 
    • By BabyGroot69
      Hello,
      I could not seem to find a similar thread so if one exists I apologize. I have an 02 cr250r with an 01 motor. I need to buy a new silencer with a spark arrestor because the current one does not have one. I am not sure if the owner before me used an 01 or 02 silencer because I have read the frame had significant changes from 01 to 02. Any thoughts? Thanks!
    • By Christo6060
      I want to restore a 1996 cr80 that doesn’t have any graphics and absolutely love the 1994 cr125r tank shroud graphics, I can’t seem to find anything that fits the cr80 with those graphics. I found one last week but lost the page and couldn’t track it down again, do the cr125r graphics fit the cr80 tank shrouds? or does anyone know where someone could make them for cheap or know about any in Australia 

    • By cerialsledder
      Hey guys,
       
      Could someone please explain the numbers on a needle jet for a mikuni carb?  I'm currently running a 38-73 needle but a lot of the people I talk to say I would be happier running a 38-70 needle.  I don't have a problem with going with what other recommend but I would like to understand the numbering for the needles first.  I understand the nozzle sizes, main jet and pilot jet it's just this damn needle thingamobob
       
      Thanks a lot 
×