Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Crank in "Non-Servicable" 08 CRF450

Recommended Posts

So I think I need a new bottom end rod bearing. My motor sounds a lot like this guys:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XQmG3Tpe3Wc

I called Monarch Honda in Orem Utah and they said that the crank for this bike is a "non-servicable" crank.

You mean to tell me I can't just have the crank rebuilt like every other crank I've dealt with?

Thoughts?

PS - Typo in the title, I meant to say "is" not "in"

Edited by jethro450
stupid typos

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Honda Shop in Orem just told you "they" don't service the cranks. They can be serviced but most of the time a new part costs the same or less so why bother.

The one issue of the Honda crank is the sprocket side runs in the bearing itself. So you can change the bearing in the case, but the crank pin the bearing runs in is going to still have wear or a compromised bearing race (not new)

By the way, listening to that vid makes me want to reach into the computer and hit the kill button ASAP

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
The Honda Shop in Orem just told you "they" don't service the cranks. They can be serviced but most of the time a new part costs the same or less so why bother.

The one issue of the Honda crank is the sprocket side runs in the bearing itself. So you can change the bearing in the case, but the crank pin the bearing runs in is going to still have wear or a compromised bearing race (not new)

By the way, listening to that vid makes me want to reach into the computer and hit the kill button ASAP

I WANTED TO SHUT IT OFF TOO! :prof: Luckily mine doesn't sound quite that bad yet.

The way the service guy talked to me was like, "it cannot be done". Not just that they don't do it, that's why it bothered me because I know it's possible but you are correct, it'll probably cost the same to just buy a new one.

I guess I'll just bite the bullet and buy a new crank. Not the first time I've split a 450 case...

PS - the motor has 80 hours on it, 40 of that was with a 2moto snowbike kit on. Stock valves haven't budget even half a thousandth since day one, piston looks perfect, everything except this pesky rod bearing.... :smirk:

pps - my youtube is jethro450, lots of snowbike vids for ya if interested :smirk:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So where's the best and cheapest place to buy a wiseco bottom end kit (crank, seals, bearings, etc.) that I've seen in the Tucker catalogs for $300 or so?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can buy a brand new OEM crank from Apache for only $267.

I wouldn't use a China crank in any of my bikes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

More questions, sorry: I have a crank i took out of my 06 450 that blew up (I bought the bike blown up and fixed it). That crank actually "seems" ok. Zero up and down movement on the rod, side to side is in spec. I'm half tempted to throw that in and try it. My only hesitation is that I can't test if the rod itself is bent or not and that's why I didn't use last time. Any good way to check the alignment of where the wrist pin/bearing connects?

Anyone tried a stroker Hot Rod crank that adds 3mm to the stroke?

stroker kit 16-4152

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For $280 I would rather replace it than waste the four hours to tear it apart

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the inner bore of the rod wasn't perfectly round, but it's dang close. the vertical direction measures 0.001" longer than the horizontal. there IS sign of wear though, and for that reason I don't think I'll use it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got the motor out tonight (I moved over the last month, been too busy to get to this).

Couple thoughts:

1. Rod has ZERO up and down movement, makes me think the crank is fine.

2. The piston looks perfect, but can rock side to side within the wrist pin more than what I'd classify as "slightly".

3. I might be running just a tad lean, what do you guys think?

4. I can't get the wrist pin out. Not sure if the piston is moving a little and caused some warpage in the wrist pin clip area or something but it is definitely not coming out. The wrist pin can slide both ways about 5mm and then it hits metal to metal and isn't going anymore.

So... questions...

A. You think I just have piston slap? I had that on a few two-strokes in my day and it just doesn't sound like that to me. If so, I guess I could dremel out the inner part of the piston and get the pin out, then install a new piston.

B. I feel like I'm just guessing at this stupid noise and wasting money tell it goes away. My inclination is to buy a new crank, piston, and cam chain tensioner and see what happens. What do you guys think?

getimage2.jpg

getimage.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks lean. And stupid question but did you take out the piston pin c clips?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

monarch is so full of d-bags that dont know jack. if you need parts and servace take it to USA Motor toys and they will fix ya up, 801 - 796 - 7416 ask for Matt he is the servace guy and can get you lined up for wayy less then monarch

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i rebuilt the crank in my 09 kx250f, new crank pin/con rod/ cage and bearings, good as new, also had the crank balanced and it was in spec.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The top of the rod is where the rods go bad most of the time. I wouldnt run it if its not round anymore. Youre asking for a really big expensive failure if you do.

For the cost of rebuilding the crank you can buy a new one and you wont have to wonder about the crank pin that runs in the bearing on the stator side (that isn't rebuild-able, all you can do is replace the bearing in the case, which you should do anyway)

Other than that, I think your parts list for the rebuild is good. New piston, new crank, a manual CCT and a new cam chain and if the valves havent move dont mess with them. Just leave the head together.

And its not lean. I looks pretty good actually, for pump gas that is.

Should be good to go. If you cant get the pin out of the rod, try an air hammer. Ive had to go this route a couple times when the pin was seized in the top of the rod. It'll probably come right out. My air hammer cam with a pointed attachment that works great. Normally you just have to push it past far enough to drop the rod out.

As far as the rod goes, think about the spec. The rod pin hole is .7491" +/- .0004".

Its plus or minus 4 ten thousandths of an inch. The max if the hole is round is .750 and if I found one that big, I wouldnt run it. The clearance spec is only .0006". Its less than one thousandths. If you measured .001" of slop (which you may be able to hear but not feel) its too much. The top of the rod is toast.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I hate spending money but I'm going to put new crank bearings in the case while I'm at it. I'll order parts today and maybe post a picture or two and a follow up response in about a week when I get it all put back together. Thanks for your responses fellas.

PS - I read some other long thread on here about jetting a year or so ago. I'm running a 160 main on the second clip for everything above 5000', winter, summer, it doesn't matter. I put a 165 in when I go to lower elevations (2500-5000). My bike runs super crisp and clean .... and has a crank issue... lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By 33KTM350
      I just bought a Magura hydraulic clutch for my 2014 CRF450R.  Bought it thinking install would be easy, and I'm not sure that's the case now that I have the product in my hands.  I have searched the forums, YouTube, etc for install help specifically for my model year (2013 and 2014 are same really), and haven't found anything specific for the 2013-2014 model install at all.  Instructions from Magura are TERRIBLE, and are not specific at all to the Honda - generic instructions - so I'm debating if I want to return the product, cuz I don't want trouble or a big install job.  Question: for the 2013-2014 CRF450R install ONLY of a Magura Hymec hydraulic clutch - other model years are different and thus it won't be helpful for other model years - do you have any tips or feedback?  My concerns are below...
      1.  The 2014 model has a sleeve behind the clutch actuation arm that the Magura clutch slave cylinder fits into.  Stock, the sleeve holds one end of the cable, with a nut on the other end to keep the cable end tight in the sleeve.  The Magura slave cylinder, however, slides into the mounting sleeve  - but does NOT have a nut: the tension from the clutch actuation arm pulling on the metal Magura slave cyl tip end is apparently supposed to keep the Magura slave cylinder tight in the mounting sleeve.  Q: Will the Magura slave fit in to the mounting sleeve easily, stay tight, and is there any adjustment needed in order to keep the 4-6mm of freeplay that Magura recommends?  How easy is it to get the Magura slave fitted into the sleeve and the metal tip in place?  Is there enough freeplay between slave and tip end to mount in actuating arm AND the holding sleeve, so that the holding sleeve doesn't need to be unbolted?  
      2. The stock clutch cable and OEM setup runs out of the mounting sleeve (see pics marked "metal starts", and then runs through a metal sleeve that routes the cable through the engine compartment - keeping the cable away from the hot parts of the engine case, so as not to melt the cable insulation (I believe).  That metal sleeve is about 6-8 inches in length.  The Magura clutch cable, on the other hand, exits the Magura slave cylinder at an angle - yet has no such metal routing.  I don't think the OEM metal routing sleeve will accept the Magura cable either, so a) the OEM metal routing sleeve would have to be removed first before installing the Magura - and then b) you have to hope that the Magura cable can be routed in such a way with zip ties holding the hydraulic line that line will not touch or be close to the hot metal engine casing as you route it through the engine.  Q: how easy was it to get the OEM clutch cable and metal routing sleeve out?  Easy as unscrewing the nut on the other end of the OEM cable, on the other side of the black rubber cable flange in my pics?   
      3.  My stock clutch pull isn't bad.  I just like the feel of a hydro clutch.  Any feedback on how much better feeling and easier pull will be with the Magura?  What's your feedback on the difference?  FYI, I'm leaving my clutch plates and springs stock.    
       




    • By Eric Blasiman
      We have a 2016 CRF450R with about 11 hours out. never ridden hard always check the oil and change when needed along with the air filter. Took care of the recall that was required as well. Well when riding the bike was stalled out. Went to try and kick start the bike again. the kick start lever just back up jamming my knee into the handle bars and some how ended up cracking the case right by where the kick start goes through the case. Has any one had this happen or heard of this happening? What is the cause? 
    • By crfjunky1320
      Any advice on what should be replaced while I have the top end off for a valve replacement. Will do headgasket and springs of course, anything other parts you would recommend while I'm going at it?
       
      Thanks!
    • By Ron Whitfeld
      The dirtbike is on it's forth year right now on the same motor job. I have to jump start it. Is it worth me trading for a 2009 650 brute force with7000 miles? Need some expert advice. Thanks 
    • By Lucas Hansen
      Just wondering what you guys do to remove black marks on your seat. My 08 crf450r has the red/black seat, and after each ride there are some black marks on the red from my riding pants. Not scuff marks, more like patches of black residue from my pants rubbing on the seat. I’ve tried the magic eraser which seemed to do the trick, but lately they seem like they aren’t coming off. Also tried scrubbing bubbles with a brush and no luck. Not too worried cuz I have an spare OEM seat, but I’d like to keep this one nice. Any ideas? Maybe I shouldn’t wear black pants?
×