Jump to content

Recommended Posts

has anybody here built a midvalve for a drz400e,just wondering whats involved as far as parts and if somebody could recommend a stack as a starting point,im 230lbs running gold valves 2 stage and am running a fairly stiff low speed stack,works so so but would like more bottoming control. have .49 springs which probably should be stiffer.would a midvalve help me tune in some more damping.i also have a set of 98 rm 125 forks that i would like to set up for the drz but dont know who still has springs or where to start.Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So you must have disabled the stock midvalve and made it into a check valve as per Race-Tech's recommendation? The result is often a bike that dives and has too much movement. Maybe just reverting the check-valve back to a stock midvalve would do the trick.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i havent had the cartridge apart but was under the impression that these forks came with a ck plate in them and not valving for the midvalve.anybody know?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
i havent had the cartridge apart but was under the impression that these forks came with a ck plate in them and not valving for the midvalve.anybody know?

Yep they run a check plate

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes the DRZ runs a check plate on the MV. The check plate id is 9.6mm so it is not just a simple case of throwing some shims in there to build a stack.

I cant picture what the rebound tap looks like at the moment but you should be able to spin it up in the lathe and reduce the shoulder od down to allow you to fit 8mm id shims.

I haven't done this so I cant recommend a stack to run.

You should ba able to gain more bottoming resistance through base valving if a midvalve conversion is too difficult.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wouldn't it be simpler to just drill out 8mm ID shims to 9.6mm? Could someone explain precisely what midvalve should consist of? Let's take 2005 Honda CRF 450 midvalve as an example: 6 x 20 0.1, 4 x 17 0.1, 9.5 0.2,8 2.3,9.5 0.2,2 x 10 0.2 (data from suspensionnetwork.com). I guess that actual stack is 6 x 20.1 and 4x 17.1. Do the smaller shims go inside the spring? How the stack is supported on spring cup, and how to regulate float? Thanks for help.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Why? How hard can it be? :busted:

they are made of spring steel, not normal iron. and they are very thin...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
they are made of spring steel, not normal iron. and they are very thin...

And to mention the distortion you get from the heat :busted:

Just get a mid base and collar off a KYB or showa for that matter and build from that platform. :busted:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
And to mention the distortion you get from the heat :busted:

Just get a mid base and collar off a KYB or showa for that matter and build from that platform. :bonk:

:busted: i did one of those "zero-float" schemes with older showa components for a guy who wanted his street app. to handle more like the supermoto we did for him.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
And to mention the distortion you get from the heat :busted:

Just get a mid base and collar off a KYB or showa for that matter and build from that platform. :busted:

If you use proper tools - good quality, sharp, cobalt drill the heat will be minimal and it will cut through in an eye blink.

You say to use stuff from other fork but someone have pointed out earlier that DRZ 400 fork have non standard damping rod diameter?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Try holding a shim without damaging it. If it isn't drilled centered, it'll adversely affect the results for that particular shim.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

russ what year and model bike forks could i use the mid base and collar from?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
russ what year and model bike forks could i use the mid base and collar from?

The last one I did, the parts I had were out of a KYB, (06-10)I cant remember the year or bike just had the parts laying.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
And to mention the distortion you get from the heat :lol:

Just get a mid base and collar off a KYB or showa for that matter and build from that platform. :banghead:

:)

Thats a great solution russ!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did just install midvalve on my DRZ 400 E fork as russ adviced. I have also stiffened base valve. Result is dramatic improvement of fork performance. It's lost its annoying diviness, improving both confidence on big bumps and damping of small terrain roughness. Earlier I had to run compression valve fully turned in which didn't help much with diviness but resulted in very harsh ride on small bumps. Now i run 10 clicks out on compression and It damps well big jumps and eats small ones, so the fork is both harder and softer just where it needs to be. Thanks russ for great advice. The only question remains, why Suzuki did install such shitty valving on enduro version? Yamaha WR 400 which is older construcion has much better stock suspension setup...

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


×