question on jetting for CRF230f

First post here... Just bought a 230f to get back into riding. 2009 model.

I've read the multitude of threads to determine how I need to change my jets.

I am going with the 120 main, 48 pilot and 03-05 needle. Removing air box and baffle.

With that said, the 120 and 48 will be here before the weekend but the 03-05 will not. So, my question is can I change the main and pilot and leave the needle alone for now? Or do I need to wait and do all 3 at the same time?

Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks

John

First post here... Just bought a 230f to get back into riding. 2009 model.

I've read the multitude of threads to determine how I need to change my jets.

I am going with the 120 main, 48 pilot and 03-05 needle. Removing air box and baffle.

With that said, the 120 and 48 will be here before the weekend but the 03-05 will not. So, my question is can I change the main and pilot and leave the needle alone for now? Or do I need to wait and do all 3 at the same time?

Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks

John

Don't know what elevation you are riding at, but around here (2000-3000 feet) we leave the stock needle (or the 03-05 needle in my case) in the stock position for the best throttle response. If we raise the needle anymore, we get some slight bogging when trying to wheelie over a log, etc. :smirk:

If you just want to be able to 'raise' the needle you can take it out and put some sort of 'spacer' washer under the clip and that will have the effect of moving the clip down lower (my 230 has the clip in the 4th groove from the top) the spacer can't go anywhere once you've replaced the needle.

You may want to buy yourself a 'T' handle Kouba (or similar) fuel screw because the one you have fitted can only be altered with a special 'D' shaped tool (legend has it that some sort of electrical 'butt' connector will grip it if persuaded over the 'D' shape though)

You will deffo need to be able to adjust it though as the 48 pilot is going to the extreme IMO (mine was cured with a 45)

The 120 main has made mine much better than with the 132 'power-up' that was installed when i bought it.

Ian :smirk:

I am in Clemmons, NC... around 1000 elevation(i think!).

My stock needle is an '09! My 03-05 will not be here before the weekend so I'm just wanting to know if I can change the other 2 for this weekend.

I chose the 48 based off of the sticky post about Mike's dyno testing....

My stock needle is an '09! My 03-05 will not be here before the weekend so I'm just wanting to know if I can change the other 2 for this weekend

I know that my friend, i was just letting you know you could swop the other 2 parts and use a needle SPACER to achieve use of the 09 needle until your 03-05 turns up as i'm pretty sure they only use the 03-05 needle to gain use of the 4th groove (which the 09 needle doesn't have:moon:)

Good luck anyway

Ian

Quick Update...

First off, Thanks Ian for the comments.

I installed the 48 pilot and the 120 main tonight... removed the baffle and air box snorkle....

I didn't touch the stock needle and I didn't adjust the mixture screw... left them the way they came from the factory.

Bike definitely runs better... Started up quicker... Idles good. When I take off, once I get some RPM in the engine it really takes off....

When I'm at idle and I twist the throttle slowly everything is fine... When I give it full throttle from an idle, the engine stalls completely....

Is this because I have touched the stock needle or mixture screw?? Or, is it because it's not completely warmed up...? I only ran it for 2 or 3 minutes as the kids in the neighborhood are starting to go to bed!

Thoughts anyone?

The 230 does NOT have an AP (accelerator pump) which most modern 4 strokes do have so by whacking to WOT (wide open throttle) on the stand you are pulling the throttle slide fully open without the corresponding amount of fuel getting into the mix.

As long as it 'rides' ok you will get used to 'rolling on' the throttle and will probably never experience 'the bog' again.

If you want to SEE what the AP does just type "AP squirt" into youtube and you will be able to see what the 230 (and many other 'old school' designed bikes) doesn't have.

It isn't a bad thing though, name me an AP equipped bike that can do 70 mpg like the 230 does

Ian

Understood.... I guess I was wondering why opening the throttle quickly before my changes didn't seem to bog like it does now...

It does do fine by rolling it and I can definitely deal with it. I was just wondering if the new needle or changes to the existing needle and/or messing with the mixture would have any effect.

Thanks again for all the comments.

John

let it warm up ! mine wont bog at all but does when wickin it in the garage... out on the trail it wont bog .. same jets as you...

sounds like the needle man..

put the 03-05 needle in.. ur good

When I give it full throttle from an idle, the engine stalls completely....

Mine does the same, but does just fine rolling...don't remember what it did before I jetted it though.

2006 CRF 230F

Dynojet Powerup needle in groove #3 (for under 5,000 feet)

DJ116 Main Jet = 122.5 Keihen

48 Pilot

'T' handle Kouba fuel screw - 2.5 turns out

BBR aftermarket exhaust

Snorkel removed

BBR Rev limiter

K&N filter

I too was wondering if this could be corrected, but it's not a big deal...

From what I have read, it seem that since the 230 does not have an accelerator pump it will bog when the throttle is cracked from idle. Mine does before and after jetting but it doesn't bother me in normal riding, just when I want to rev in neutral quickly for no apparent reason.

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