scotts stabilizer leaking

[cdf450]

I left the bike outside all winter so I think that might have something to do with it..

the stabilizer is an older model, from before 2007 I believe. it only has 1 dial to adjust it, and from that dial it is leaking oil. its also very hard to turn the dial now. is it an easy fix? is it easy to take these stabilizers apart? what kind of oil do I put back into them?

thanks!

[orangyktmthing]

You can contact scotts and they can give you prices for rebuilding it. Depending on how many hours you have had on it, it might not be a bad idea. Steering dampers need regular oil changes just like suspension/engines/etc... If you hit up their website, they have pretty useful information with regards to do it yourself rebuilds, parts breakdowns and all that other fun stuff. Here is the website: www.scottsperformance.com

[cdf450]

hm, thats very cool. I just read it all... seems pretty easy and I imagine I can get by without using their special tools too. a rebuild is 65-100$ + shipping which isnt too bad, cheaper than I thought. not sure how much a rebuild kit is though or where to get one... has anyone here replaced the seal? do you absolutely need the special tools? (3-bolt Puller, bullet tool for installing seal and link arm puller)

thanks!

[Eric@ScottsPerformance]

hm, thats very cool. I just read it all... seems pretty easy and I imagine I can get by without using their special tools too. a rebuild is 65-100$ + shipping which isnt too bad, cheaper than I thought. not sure how much a rebuild kit is though or where to get one... has anyone here replaced the seal? do you absolutely need the special tools? (3-bolt Puller, bullet tool for installing seal and link arm puller)

thanks!

Out of curiosity, all of the Scotts Damper have two adjustmants on top of the damper and a screw adjustment on each side of the damper.

As far as a rebuild goes if you want to try it yourself by all means. I know you will need at least the 2 main seals at $5.95 each. The link arm puller is VERY helpfull at $12.95 because you really do not want to pry the arm off the shaft and potentially damage the body of the damper. It is very unusual for the knob to be leaking which makes me wonder if it is really the problem or if it is something else. When we do install the knob assembly we use grease to assemble it and in time it may be possible that grease has melted and left some residue around the body by the knob. If you have a leak in the damper you will feel a gap in the damping. If you give me a call and have the damper in your hand I can walk you through a few things the test.

FYI, my personal damper has not been taken apart in about 6 years now. I do a basic oil change every year which can be done without taking it apart. Also keep in mind that living here in So Cal is pretty easy on seals and things like that because we do not have mud and grit like other states and I never use a pressure washer on my bike.

Thanks-

Eric

[zilla]

You can do it yerslf, and I made a puller, etc.. I bought my SCOTTS in 98. I changed oil myself a few times , and then sent it in once a few years ago.. SCOTTS mic's internal parts and replaces whats out of spec.. Mine worked much better after a factory rebuild.. And it was ~$100..

[cdf450]

Out of curiosity, all of the Scotts Damper have two adjustmants on top of the damper and a screw adjustment on each side of the damper.

As far as a rebuild goes if you want to try it yourself by all means. I know you will need at least the 2 main seals at $5.95 each. The link arm puller is VERY helpfull at $12.95 because you really do not want to pry the arm off the shaft and potentially damage the body of the damper. It is very unusual for the knob to be leaking which makes me wonder if it is really the problem or if it is something else. When we do install the knob assembly we use grease to assemble it and in time it may be possible that grease has melted and left some residue around the body by the knob. If you have a leak in the damper you will feel a gap in the damping. If you give me a call and have the damper in your hand I can walk you through a few things the test.

FYI, my personal damper has not been taken apart in about 6 years now. I do a basic oil change every year which can be done without taking it apart. Also keep in mind that living here in So Cal is pretty easy on seals and things like that because we do not have mud and grit like other states and I never use a pressure washer on my bike.

Thanks-

Eric

here is a picture, you can kind of see where it was leaking out of the knob on the right. it leaked quite a bit, to the point where it made 3 drops of oil on the tank mount where it mounts to the frame. I dont think its grease that melted because it didnt do this last summer when it was super hot. it hasnt even been hot yet this year in alberta. it was pouring down the back of the stabilizer and now that knob on the right side is very hard to turn.

those seals are cheap, same with the link arm puller. I would like to go ahead and purchase those ASAP via my credit card as well as anything else I might need to replace inside of the stabilizer. I dont think I need any of the special tools other than the link arm puller though. thanks!

ps: is there a 2nd knob under that black thing?!?! if so, what does it do?

I should also mention I bought this stabilizer used off TT. when it is all the way hard, its VERY hard to turn the handlebars, but once I back it off 1/8th of a turn it becomes pretty easy to turn, back it off half a turn or a full turn and it becomes almost no resistance to turn. its not consistant. turn the dial 5% and resistance decreases 25%. and is this an older model stabilizer? I have a friend and his clicks when you turn it. mine spins 3 revolutions with no clicking sounds. thanks!!

[4strokeridertt]

I think i would pack it up and send it in for a factory rebuild.

[Eric@ScottsPerformance]

I think i would pack it up and send it in for a factory rebuild.

I think I would agree! ?

Ok, this damper is at LEAST 12-15 years old. At this age I would recommend that you let us rebuild it. If you want to do it yourself you see the parts and either order them online or call us and tell us what you need here:

http://www.scottsonline.com/dampparts.php

And the tools are here:

http://www.scottsonline.com/groupproducts.php?Groups=187

The manual is here that wil ltell you how it all works:

http://www.scottsonline.com/litrack/257.pdf

Thanks-

Eric

[cdf450]

wow. 12-15 years old?!?! how long have you guys been making these things?!?!?!?

I was thinking the same thing... I will just send it in to you guys. how much do you figure that would cost for the full rebuild that I will need, and what is the address? I will send it tomorrow.

[Eric@ScottsPerformance]

wow. 12-15 years old?!?! how long have you guys been making these things?!?!?!?

I was thinking the same thing... I will just send it in to you guys. how much do you figure that would cost for the full rebuild that I will need, and what is the address? I will send it tomorrow.

The dampers have been out since the late '70's early '80's and we have been making and distributing them since the mid to late '80's.

By the picture I am going to guesstimate between $50.00 to $100.00 depending on the condition of the base underneath the low speed knob and the main wing when we open it up. If it is anything uglier than that we will give you a call and let you know once we have it opened up and know exactly what is wrong.

You can use this link to print out a repair form and fill out as much of it as you please. Just make sure you box up the damper real well before you send it in as I have a few people that like to send them to me in a padded envelope and that does not work out so well! ?

http://www.scottsonline.com/litrack/367.pdf

Thanks-

Eric

[cdf450]

The dampers have been out since the late '70's early '80's and we have been making and distributing them since the mid to late '80's.

By the picture I am going to guesstimate between $50.00 to $100.00 depending on the condition of the base underneath the low speed knob and the main wing when we open it up. If it is anything uglier than that we will give you a call and let you know once we have it opened up and know exactly what is wrong.

You can use this link to print out a repair form and fill out as much of it as you please. Just make sure you box up the damper real well before you send it in as I have a few people that like to send them to me in a padded envelope and that does not work out so well! ?

http://www.scottsonline.com/litrack/367.pdf

Thanks-

Eric

ok I got the form printed off and filled out. I send it to the address at the top of the form I assume?

and also, it says to contact you ahead of time if I want it done faster, other than have it sit on your shelf for 7-10 days, not to mention 2 weeks shipping before and after you guys receive it. so is it possible that I can get it worked on right away when you guys receive it on june 7th or so and have it shipped back ASAP too please?

thanks.