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New Hub and Basket?

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took the clutch apart and found the nut holding hub in was lose. i just spun it off with fingers. took some pictures because these things dont look like i think they should. this is my first time tearing into a clutch and have herd of unwanted grooves. i took a few pictures. let me know what you think, im really hoping i dont need to spend $500 rebuilding this clutch

2000 yz250 smoker. pretty much stock for all i know.

Thanks for any advice.

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it worked fine until the clutch had no back friction when i compressed the lever. so i took it apart and this is what i found. along with the nut completely loose.

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Wow that's a worn out basket even the gear thing on the back has a grove in it, did the clutch even disengage? Either way that thing is toast.

The inner hub, you prob could file those groves out but you might just get a new inner and outer hub at the same time.

I rode and did a few hare scrambles with a similar looking inner for a year and didn't have any issues.

If you get both billet parts it'll prob run ~$500. You could probably score something for far less on ebay, you'll just have to research what years are interchangeable.

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Basket is whatever scrap price they'll give you, hub is on the way out. If you want, you can carefully file them flat, but then you create extra play, so the plates really bang against it and kill it off again, only a lot faster this time. But it might last you a month or two. The problem with that method is the "running start" may also end up with one of the tabs busting off, and breaking something far more expensive than the clutch basket, which will need to be replaced anyway. I doubt I'd risk it.

Probably time for a new basket. If you know a tinkerer with a TIG and a milling machine, you can redo the one you have, but it is pretty far along. I'd replace it as soon as I could, and the plates as well. I'd say it has lived a long, hard life. The groove on the primary driven gear is probably a factory "beauty" mark.

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the basket i will replace for sure. the hub has just the one grove on it that you can see in the picture, but if its on its way, than i figure i mine as well get both? is that what i am hearing from you all? ill look around ebay, but i dont really mind getting new reliable parts knowing i will have a durable clutch. unless you think the hub is ok? im still a little undecided.

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That is the most roached clutch I have ever seen. The basket has grooves worn on the non-driven side of the tangs... Yikes. I find it hard to believe that clutch was even operable.

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unless it all just went to shit in an afternoon and i noticed nothing, but it worked well enough that i had no suspision of it going bad untill the nut came loose and i lost all play in the clutch lever.

oh well. its time for some overhauling on this bike anyway, so i mine as well get it all over with.

looks like ill be doing the clutch, top end, wheen bearings, and maybe a few other things that could use some TLC. Got the bike from a friend for $800 last year. so im not to disappointed.

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That is the most roached clutch I have ever seen. The basket has grooves worn on the non-driven side of the tangs... Yikes. I find it hard to believe that clutch was even operable.

The non driven side gets pooched because the drive side adds so much slop that it can rock back and forth, beating the whole thing to death. That's why the file method just gives you a reprieve long enough to order a replacement: it adds even more slop.

I've often wondered why some enterprising soul hasn't come up with a steel u-shaped shim arrangement to repair these. Along the lines of the ones supplied as wear points for pads on disc brakes. Granted, you have to have some way to be sure they didn't come off from the centrifugal force, but I'm sure a first year engineering student could do this for extra credit. Nothing I have makes enough power to do this.

Since the aftermarket high grade ones aren't that much more expensive than the stock stuff, I'd upgrade. Maybe the GYTR version would fit for that year. They aren't bad. Buy the set, don't mix and match.

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The non driven side gets pooched because the drive side adds so much slop that it can rock back and forth, beating the whole thing to death. That's why the file method just gives you a reprieve long enough to order a replacement: it adds even more slop.

I've often wondered why some enterprising soul hasn't come up with a steel u-shaped shim arrangement to repair these. Along the lines of the ones supplied as wear points for pads on disc brakes. Granted, you have to have some way to be sure they didn't come off from the centrifugal force, but I'm sure a first year engineering student could do this for extra credit. Nothing I have makes enough power to do this.

Since the aftermarket high grade ones aren't that much more expensive than the stock stuff, I'd upgrade. Maybe the GYTR version would fit for that year. They aren't bad. Buy the set, don't mix and match.

where do you buy that at? looks like rockymountainatv doesnt have the entire set?

thanks again for your help. this is huge

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The non driven side gets pooched because the drive side adds so much slop that it can rock back and forth, beating the whole thing to death. That's why the file method just gives you a reprieve long enough to order a replacement: it adds even more slop.

I've often wondered why some enterprising soul hasn't come up with a steel u-shaped shim arrangement to repair these. Along the lines of the ones supplied as wear points for pads on disc brakes. Granted, you have to have some way to be sure they didn't come off from the centrifugal force, but I'm sure a first year engineering student could do this for extra credit. Nothing I have makes enough power to do this.

Since the aftermarket high grade ones aren't that much more expensive than the stock stuff, I'd upgrade. Maybe the GYTR version would fit for that year. They aren't bad. Buy the set, don't mix and match.

As I sit here during lunch from my engineering job, I must agree.

It seems odd that their isn't an easy fix to save the basket but fix the fingers.

I believe Barnett or some other company makes a basket that has replacable liners on the fingers.

I agree with everyone above. Replace basket and hub. Try to find some nice aftermarket units. I believe a few companys have lifetime warranties, that is where I would be spending my money.

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I think if you count the number of friction plates that came out of this clutch you may find your one short.

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does anyone know if the rekluse z-start pro clutch kit for the 2000 yz250 will work on my 1999? $599 for the entire kit. thats much better than the 1100 for others.

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does anyone know if the rekluse z-start pro clutch kit for the 2000 yz250 will work on my 1999? $599 for the entire kit. thats much better than the 1100 for others.

I know, I know. Yes the z-start pro will work in a 1999 YZ 250. You will need a new outer basket because the ZSP does not come with a basket. You should also get a new set of friction plates. The ZSP will come with everything else.

IdahoJoe

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where do you buy that at? looks like rockymountainatv doesnt have the entire set?

thanks again for your help. this is huge

The GYTR stuff should be available at most, if not all, Yamaha dealers. It helps to have a local dealer you can rely on. I buy a lot of stuff mail order/ Internet. But I have a reasonably local dealer that I spend at and they take really good care of me. A great relationship with an outstanding dealer is priceless. Bad ones are just that: bad. Look at the Yamaha website, go to the parts lists, see if the latest clutch is the same part number as yours. If so, look at the current YZ, look under the accessories tab, and look at the clutch components. Those are the ones. Assuming they fit. My guess is they do, Yamaha tends to have just a few clutch sizes and uses them on lots of different models.

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The GYTR stuff should be available at most, if not all, Yamaha dealers. It helps to have a local dealer you can rely on. I buy a lot of stuff mail order/ Internet. But I have a reasonably local dealer that I spend at and they take really good care of me. A great relationship with an outstanding dealer is priceless. Bad ones are just that: bad. Look at the Yamaha website, go to the parts lists, see if the latest clutch is the same part number as yours. If so, look at the current YZ, look under the accessories tab, and look at the clutch components. Those are the ones. Assuming they fit. My guess is they do, Yamaha tends to have just a few clutch sizes and uses them on lots of different models.

499.33 gets me all plates, springs, basket, and hub from the dealer.the hub was only $79. i couldnt believe it, especially after i saw the prices of all the after market hubs. why didnt i think of that? thanks bro. it all should be here on friday. i have a piston, some new air filters, and tools coming from rockymountainatvmc as well. im excited. $600 should get this bike running like a champ. i have new seals on the shocks from last year, and wheel bearing will be getting replaced with a new rear tire as well. how sick is this thing going to be when im all done!

does anyone know where i can get an entire plastics set in the yellow or orange KTM color? i would love to get this frame painted and get it looking good if im going to get ir running good.

Thanks again for all the help.

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A lot of the mail order/Internet places offer plastics. I wouldn't rule out factory stuff as well. I believe Denis Kirk sells plastics sets. Maybe Wheeling Cycle does as well. The factory stuff is pretty tough and certainly lasts as long as the originals. :smirk:

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