how to make my 450r better on tight trails?

hey guys looking to make my 05 450r better on enduro type tight nasty trails.

the place i ride varies from big coal hills,jumps ect to a tight nasty single enduro trail in the woods. still want to keep the mx characteristics

pros: bike pulls great up hills in 3rd gear wouldnt wanna gear it much lower that it would change that.

cons: terrible on tight trails,constantly on the clutch and stall quite often and when i do stall or put it down it can be a :smirk: to start again. besides that starts up no problem. my friends 06 kxf450r is much better on the trails

thanks in advance for the help!

Auto clutch and suspension that is dialed you can't have suspension that's awesome on trails and track. Valving and springs are different.

Auto clutch and suspension that is dialed you can't have suspension that's awesome on trails and track. Valving and springs are different.

i never really messed with the suspension. overall doesnt bother me either way the way its set i can always try messing with the stiffness for a better ride on the trails. im not a racer just like to get out in the woods once in a while and ride the local spot.

my main concern is the stalling and being on the clutch constantly. drives me nuts and beats the crap outta me.

would a heavier flywheel and say 51 tooth rear sprocket help without being too low? i have a 49t on there now

Yes a 51t sprocket should help with giving more acceleration. It appears that a lot of people use the 51t sprocket for trails. I have a flywheel on my crf, which was on it when I bought it. I have yet to ride one without the flywheel weight so I'm not sure how much of a difference it makes.

I installed a 35 oz. flywheel, it helped, but stalling was still a problem. Put a Revloc Dyna-Ring auto clutch in, what a difference. The clutch alone will be a big improvement. You'll really enjoy the bike more, it worked for me. I can plunk along on the slow, technical trails without having to work the clutch. I might change from stock gearing to a 50t, but like you said it doesn't lack any power. Oh I've got an '08, engine is stock, stock exhaust, jetted proper.

if you like the mx "feel" of the bike, are still hitting some "sweet jumps", not sure you would want to go much bigger than 17oz flywheel. At trail techs recomendation I went with 13oz and like it. All i do is woods and harescramble racing. Presently i run 13/49, but that is down here in pretty flat FLorida. As already stated, the gearing change will help in the tight stuff. I use 1st gear a fair amount. An auto clutch appears to be in your future.. and if you went that route, i THINK you could keep the 13/49 to not loose lots of top end speed, perhaps even going down to stock 13/48=47 for more open road speed.. and could go with a lighter fww if you felt aftewards you needed it.

Don't overlook softer front springs..(but as often occurs, posters don't include thier wieght). You can back off comp and reb all ya wan't with stock stuff, but it still won't soften up as much as would be ideal in the initial stroke for woods/trails, AND keep enough firmness in the mid/lower stroke. Revalve would allow for a softer upper stroke and firm-enough mid/lower stroke. Suspension done right, makes the bike AMAZING.

I kept stalling my 07 450r on tight mountain trails, and I needed to turn up the idle speed.

Once I did that, it helped alot.

Isaac

rekluse and suspension work have made a world of difference.

A very efficient and cheap part for what u need is Powernow ! I installed one on my 450R 04 and it was a good help to reduce stalling !!

I have my 450 set to idle around 1700-1800 RPM once it's fully warmed up. I can lug it in gear to around 1400-1500 RPM without it stalling. I can get it to idle as low as 1300 RPM.

Before you spend big bucks on flywheels, etc..try simple things first like making sure your jetting is squared away, raising up your idle speed, and adjusting your clutch cable so it engages a little further out in the travel. That will give you more room to "feather" the clutch.

The only time I stall my 450 is when I'm stopped, and let the clutch out too quickly without giving it enough gas. Once I got my pilot jet and idle speed set, almost all of my stalling issues went completely away.

Proper jetting means you don't need any of that fancy carb bling. Most of them are band aids. The best thing I ever did to my bike was moto pro suspension and a dyna ring auto clutch so much easier and fun to ride. You will love it.

I fixed my 2009 crf 450r buy buying a 2011 KTM 300 XC! Works great now!

The 450 has a rekluse pro clutch and $1500 Factory Connection suspension.

The flywheel is not to much , and helps out woods riding alot. I put a 13 oz. on my bike , works nice. Easy job to do too.

best bet is to get a 250f. and regear it to ur preferences. i have an 03 crf450r and it is ''NOT'' a woods bike. im takin it to my local track this weekend and if racing doesnt work out for me im tradin for a 250f

best bet is to get a 250f. and regear it to ur preferences. i have an 03 crf450r and it is ''NOT'' a woods bike. im takin it to my local track this weekend and if racing doesnt work out for me im tradin for a 250f

.. a crf450 is not a woods bike for some riders.. :smirk: Personally i wouldn't want anything else unless i was on some mountain goat type trails. Then no way would i want it, would prefer a crf250X (electric start, easier to ride).

The 13oz fww is a nice balance of less stall prone/easier log crossings-but not too much rev loss.. and pretty darn easy to install. If your not racing harescrambles and only riding woods/trails, ya may like a bit more weight on the fw.

turn off the computer and ride I'm sure if a real pro got on your bike and rode it you would see that it turns just fine ....just kidding :smirk: read up on a revalve ...the more you ride it the better it gets:ride:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=390319

thanks guys you rock :smirk:

lots of good info. ill try the small stuff first.

1) ill try cranking the idle speed up

2)adjusting the clutch if needed,pretty sure it lets out pretty far,dont have a problem feathering it,the idle speed is probably my problem.

3)51t rear sprocket

4)heavier flywheel if im not happy

5)auto clutch if im still not happy

also im no carb guru i have an aftermarket fuel mixture screw and pro circuit ti-4 exh and the big header for torque. i think i have it set pretty well but im on stock jets. like i said it can be terrible to start after dumped or stalled and sometimes will stall idling if your pushing it up hill.

thanks guys you rock :smirk:

lots of good info. ill try the small stuff first.

1) ill try cranking the idle speed up

2)adjusting the clutch if needed,pretty sure it lets out pretty far,dont have a problem feathering it,the idle speed is probably my problem.

3)51t rear sprocket

4)heavier flywheel if im not happy

5)auto clutch if im still not happy

also im no carb guru i have an aftermarket fuel mixture screw and pro circuit ti-4 exh and the big header for torque. i think i have it set pretty well but im on stock jets. like i said it can be terrible to start after dumped or stalled and sometimes will stall idling if your pushing it up hill.

stalling :smirk:

You need to get the fuel screw dialed in. Once thats set properly the bike will start easy hot or cold.

Nobody can tell you where to put it. Start at 1.5 turns out and then get it right from there.

Once the bike is running and HOT...you need to set the idle speed to 1800 rpm and then dial the fuel screw either direction until the idle speed is at its fastest. Then readjust the idle speed screw to 1700-1800 rpm again.

You cant do this with the engine cold. It'll be way too rich to start when hot. Thats probably the problem anyway. And every once in a while you'll have to use the hotstart lever anyway. If you tip the thing over and the carb bowl ends up dumping through the main jet into the carb throat its going to need the hot start to fire without kicking it 805 times to clear the cylinder.

stalling :smirk:

You need to get the fuel screw dialed in. Once thats set properly the bike will start easy hot or cold.

Nobody can tell you where to put it. Start at 1.5 turns out and then get it right from there.

Once the bike is running and HOT...you need to set the idle speed to 1800 rpm and then dial the fuel screw either direction until the idle speed is at its fastest. Then readjust the idle speed screw to 1700-1800 rpm again.

You cant do this with the engine cold. It'll be way too rich to start when hot. Thats probably the problem anyway. And every once in a while you'll have to use the hotstart lever anyway. If you tip the thing over and the carb bowl ends up dumping through the main jet into the carb throat its going to need the hot start to fire without kicking it 805 times to clear the cylinder.

thanks seems like the bike needs the hot start lever everytime when its hot but will start in one or two kicks. starts fine hot or cold except for when its stalled or dumped. sounds like it needs some carb tuning like u said.

how do u set the idle speed to 1800??

I dont think a 450r is made for tight trails. a good 250 2 stroke set up right has way more usable power. I have an 07 450r sux on tight trails. I have a xt 350 yamaha with 8000 miles that does better on the tight trails

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