Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

DRZ 400s with FCR39

Recommended Posts

My DRZ400S have FCR 39 slant body and a complete exhaust from a DRZ400E with this jetting

160 main jet

48 pilot jet

stock DXP needle clip 4

2 turn fuel screw

This bike works good with this set-up

I make yesterday 2 others mods

1- DRZ400E cams

2- FCR 39 jetting whit TT set up

155 main jet

45 pilot jet

200 main air jet

100 pilot air jet

EMN needle clip 3

2 1/4 turn fuel screw

and i remove the coast enrichener

Whit this set-up the bike runs but it is less powerfull than my first mods (6-8 mph moore and better throttle response without E cams and my first jetting)

I rechek my cams timing and it's at the right place

What i do wrong with my jetting :smirk:

it's not the good jetting for my set-up ???

Give me answer to make me out of trouble

THANKS Pat

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I added E cams last week to my drz400s with the E header also (I also have a FCR-MX). I didn't notice much of a difference. I'm wondering if the E cams would like higher compression. Would higher compression move more air?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The cams don't change compression ratio.I don't know the specs difference for the DRZ E and S cams but normaly a more performant cams give greater valve lift and duration opening

What's your FCR-MX jetting ?

I ride at sea level to 1500ft

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
The cams don't change compression ratio.

but they do change the dynamic compression and affect cylinder pressure.

post a picture of the cam timing from the sprocket end with the tdc mark lined up in the window.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

what year E cams ? ie what letter is stamped on the sprockets. later year E cams are in fact S cams

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The cams is from a 2001 DRZ E sold in Canada ,not a Californian one. My S cams and supposed E cams are marqued with 29F (all 4 ) I remove the E cams and have about .025-30 " more in lift than the S cams.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Eddie, i have anything to take a picture to show you . When i buy the bike at 2800 milles from a 60 years men , now at 3050milles.

Whit the TDC mark line up the ex cams arrow 2 are perfectly up and the int arrow 3 is verry slightly backward .When i change the cams i mark the chain link in front of his arrow.

I'm sure the cams are at the good place.

My whinters 2001 DRZ 400 E When i put a MCCT and adjust valves after winther the cams timing is not as good of my 400 S ( a new chain needed ) and it runs better than my 400 S Whit cams and jetting

My jetting written earlyer is good for my aplication ???

or some mods are needed ???

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

marking the chain does no good. the chain can move off the teeth of the lower sprocket.

the jetting is reasonable.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You are wright for marking the chain, but after chain + MCCT and turn engine 2 time to return next TDC and rechek the mark and it is OK .

Q for jetting. The need of the 100 pilot air jet it's only for the CE removal ???

this mod lean the air/fuel mixture ???

The pilot air jet is for the air/fuel mixture for ( only ) the pilot Jet ???

The CE is only for backfire in engine deceleration ???

I verify the color of my plugs and the mix is lean ( on normal riding )

what's the best for me

1- pilot jet 48 , 1 turn fuel screw , 160 main jet

2- EMN needle clip 4

3- reinstal the CE

4- or ?????

Thanks Pat

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I added E cams last week to my drz400s with the E header also (I also have a FCR-MX). I didn't notice much of a difference. I'm wondering if the E cams would like higher compression. Would higher compression move more air?

I have now changed to a 160 main Jet. Didn't think I'd need it because I still have the stock exhaust with the spark arrestor removed. On the freeway with the 155 my bike would hesitate when I opened the throttle, better with the 158. Now the hesitation is gone and I feel like I have more power. Yesterday I speed tested my bike because it was 103 degrees outside. I figured if its jetted to rich, it will run like crap. It ran the best it ever has.

I was wondering if you have discovered any solutions? I still can't believe my bike needs a 160, and maybe I'll try a 162.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By Bignerd0100100
      Hey all, 
      I'm looking at buying a 2004 Suzuki DRZ400EK or at least I think it's an EK according to Vin lookup websites, but it does not appear to have a kickstarter. I was told the bike was owned by a motorcycle dealer and that it has a current green sticker, and a California license plate but has not been registered for the streets since 2011. I want this as a dual sport but am not clear if the fact that it already has a plate means I am good to register it or if maybe they took away the ability to register it after it was plated, California loves to do that kind of stuff. Since the bike was owned by a dealer I would think they were up on the latest regulations in California, but who knows. Can anyone add any insight as to what I should look for on the bike itself like the carburetor, model numbers etc? Or do I just try my luck at the DMV?
    • By smokey9lives
      Hi,
      I have a 2003 DRZ (actually a KLX400) and the head tube bearings are shot.  I ordered a new set to install but I'm wondering if anyone has any recommendations on other parts I should replace while I have the front disassembled.  I was thinking about new rubber fork protectors, but are there other things that wear out on the DRZ front ends that you can only get to when disassambled?
      I also broke off a replacement key that I got for the steering lock.  I must have been made of cheap pot-metal.  Should I just remove the whole lock mechanism?
      Any tips or tricks for getting the old bearings out and the new ones in would be welcome!
      Thanks!
    • By antonyp
      Hey Guys,
      I recently bought a 2003 DRZ400S and thought it would be a good idea to check the valves clearance etc . I timed the engine on TDC with the magneto mark aligned as per the manual but I find the cam timing slightly odd. The arrows pointing upward are on the 1st and 15th pin as they should but with the magneto timing mark aligned they are not perfectly straight. Same goes for the arrows that should be parallel to the cylinder head casing. Is this normal or should they be absolutely perfect ?
       

×