Oil from behind front sprocket '86 KX250

I just bought this 96 KDX200 with an 86 KX250 motor in it for $300. I've read a thread about doing this on a 2006 KX250F, is it the same procedure for my 86? Take off the front sprocket, remove the spacer, and replace the two o-rings?

This is the gasket set I bought because the top end was in pieces.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Kawasaki-KX-250-KX250-1985-1986-Top-End-Gasket-Set-Kit-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1c1bf7dc96QQitemZ120728312982QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Are the two rubber o-rings in this kit the ones I need to put behind my front sprocket?

Thanks in advance for any help

I just bought this 96 KDX200 with an 86 KX250 motor in it for $300. I've read a thread about doing this on a 2006 KX250F, is it the same procedure for my 86? Take off the front sprocket, remove the spacer, and replace the two o-rings?

This is the gasket set I bought because the top end was in pieces.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Kawasaki-KX-250-KX250-1985-1986-Top-End-Gasket-Set-Kit-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1c1bf7dc96QQitemZ120728312982QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Are the two rubber o-rings in this kit the ones I need to put behind my front sprocket?

Thanks in advance for any help

the 2 o-rings are only half of the seal and the more common part to go out, the other part is the actual seal around the spacer. it could be this seal and the spacer (spacer gets a wear groove) or the 2 o-rings. try the o-rings first. i would replace the spacer at the same time, its cheap.

and no, thats a top end gasket kit, these o-rings are part of the bottom end; the o-rings in the top end kit go on the pipe. you need to order them from kawi, or match them up from an o-ring kit, or buy a "complete" or "bottom end" gasket kit which includes the seal and o-rings

Yea. I susbrcibed here to learn anything.

I have a 1991 KX250 I just bought for $700.

It weeps, drips oil from behind the sproket too.

I ordered a "seal" for that off the parts drawing. Hope it works.

I ordered a top end gasket set and piston set too.

Looking forward to wrenchine on my "new" MX bike.

Fry, lets see a pic of your old one.

When I was a kid in HS, I had a 1978 or so. "Anniverary special" with gold rims. Twin shocks in the rear. I think drum brakes too. I should try to figure out which bike that was. It was air cooled. 250

Coo

go look at my how to in the stickys, if its like mine (kdx200) it all should apply

I thought I put two pictures in my garage of it Coo, but here are two pictures of it in my buddy's garage just before we started getting into it. You can't really see the motor all that well though. I'm going over there tomorrow to do more work on it, I'll post some more pics for you then.

I couldn't find the how to in your sticky Sean, but I found this exploded image on the net. 92027 is the spacer I assume and the o-ring I need to replace is 92055 right? Does the spacer just slide out? I think I'm missing the spacer and that's probably why oil comes out. :smirk: Thanks for your help Sean.

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If I can stay motivated with working on it I want to strip it down to the frame this winter, paint the frame black, anodize the rims black, and change out the purple plastics with white or green. I have a new black seat cover on order right now to cover the purple. Then add whatever decals I can come up with.

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nice ride, i just fixed the countershaft seal on my 89 kdx200, it was very easy. the PO didnt have any O rings in there and made up for spacing by putting a circlip behind the sprocket. it leaked like hell.

all of the parts came to just under $50. its very straight forward, my only advice is to stop pushing the seal in when i gets flush bc it will keep going in past flush. check out this thread:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=646957

nice ride, i just fixed the countershaft seal on my 89 kdx200, it was very easy. the PO didnt have any O rings in there and made up for spacing by putting a circlip behind the sprocket. it leaked like hell.

all of the parts came to just under $50. its very straight forward, my only advice is to stop pushing the seal in when i gets flush bc it will keep going in past flush. check out this thread:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=646957

that would be my how to :smirk:

There it is... lol Thanks buddasahk

Nice how to Sean... The first seal came out with no problem, now its just getting that collar out. It should just slide out right?

Fry

I'm thinking this is all I need to replace, this one o-ring and seal. Just wanted to make sure this was it.

image1.jpg

image2.jpg

I'm thinking this is all I need to replace, this one o-ring and seal. Just wanted to make sure this was it.

image1.jpg

image2.jpg

make sure there shouldnt be 2 orings

Be sure the collar doesn't have a groove worn it.

There was only the one o-ring.

Nope... there is only the one o-ring. I'm still waiting on the seal to get here. We finally got the bike to kick but no spark. Found that the wiring is all screwed up.

Mine was dripping oil all the time.

Thought it was the seal behind the sproket as that is the #1 cause.

Bought the oil seal and finally got tired of all the oil spots in my shop so attacked it last night. Was bit worried that the old seal didn't just "pop out" with a screw driver prying it. But worked it for a while and got it out. Wire wheeled the spacer as it did have some pitted surface. Put it all back together and....still leaks. I take the brake lever off and tighten all the screws on the oil cover casting. I can see where it's weeping. Sure enough, there is a small hair line crack there.

So, I'll take it off tonight and bring it to the local welder for a quick tig-job.

But good to know it has a new oil seal in there and nothing terrible wrong with it and can keep topping it off. A new oil cover casting (the second one in, the larger one with the fill plug an all) is $175 bucks. A new brake pedal is $95. The pedal has a lot of play in it as the hole for the pin is all elongated so I'll get that tigged up too. Might cost a whole $20

Just updating this old thread

Coo

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