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09 crf450 shock stack

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I'm about 150-155 lbs, fast c/slow b rider. I went significantly softer on the shock already but its still stiff so I'm going to try a little softer yet. Here's the stack I'm going to try

4x44.2

36.2

30.2

2x42.15

40.2

38.2

34.2

26.2

2x22.3

Anyone else around my weight having to go this soft to get it right?

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I have a 5.1 which is what was recommended for my weight. 5.4 was stock. The spring is more for getting the ride height setup correctly though, doesn't have a large factor in the general feeling of how stiff or plush the bike feels.

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springs have a huge effect on the stifness( feel) of suspension

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Your stack will be absolutely too soft. There is no need to go that far from stock stack but you can improve the shock by using 2mm lowering spacer and that softer spring you already have.

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I'm about 150-155 lbs, fast c/slow b rider. I went significantly softer on the shock already but its still stiff so I'm going to try a little softer yet. Here's the stack I'm going to try

4x44.2

36.2

30.2

2x42.15

40.2

38.2

34.2

26.2

2x22.3

Anyone else around my weight having to go this soft to get it right?

That stack is all wrong. Do a search on shimming up the rebound needle via the shock clevis. What you need is more LS free bleed, not a wicked soft stack. Some have had success drilling the piston. Once you get that LS bleed problem solved, you can return to a more "normal" compression stack.

Just as a note dont use .2's for the crosses. Stay with .1 .11 or .15s.

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Some large companies are drilling bleeds into the piston...

I feel shimming the needle is not worth it.

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I've been running my rebound adjuster right in the middle and tried turning it out farther but the bike began to feel wallowy on rolling terrain which to me means I don't need any more bleed. I previously ran a stack very similar to this one except 1 more 44 and 2 more 42's and it was an ok setup but I still couldn't bottom the shock. Also I rode a friends yz450 that was professionally revalved and it was much more plush and didn't beat me up nearly as much especially over braking/acceleration bumps.

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Some large companies are drilling bleeds into the piston...

I feel shimming the needle is not worth it.

Would a bleed shim like say a 22.10 just on the valve face give similar results as a drilled piston or the effect would be different?

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Would a bleed shim like say a 22.10 just on the valve face give similar results as a drilled piston or the effect would be different?

Yes somewhat similar except it WILL close off in fast rebound situations unlike a drilled bleed.

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Give this a go! If you try it please follow it to a "T" Forks and Shock...you might be surprised!:smirk:

2009-CRF450-Jr-MX-jjy130

theDogger:thumbsup:

i think the stock stacks on the sheet are wrong.

i have 2x 11.30 on the mid , not 1x and ,112mm shims not ,10.

the mod shock looks good, also the fork with softer base and less float.:smirk:

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we're testing today/tomorrow an 09 crf450

if all goes well, i'll post it.

the bike has a pc link on it. not lowered internally.

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i think the stock stacks on the sheet are wrong.

i have 2x 11.30 on the mid , not 1x and ,112mm shims not ,10.

the mod shock looks good, also the fork with softer base and less float.:smirk:

It is poss. that the OEM stacks in Euro are slightly different, and yes the OEM shims a .12 but I replace with .10...easier to get and not much of a difference.....All the shops in the US will replace the .12 with .10

theDogger

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and not much of a difference.....

17 face shims with .10 = 1.70

17 face shims with .114 = 1.938

that equals 2 more face shims

it might make a difference...

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17 face shims with .10 = 1.70

17 face shims with .114 = 1.938

that equals 2 more face shims

it might make a difference...

This maybe true..but the fact is that only a Pro will be able to tell the difference...a week end warrior will not...

theDogger

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It is poss. that the OEM stacks in Euro are slightly different, and yes the OEM shims a .12 but I replace with .10...easier to get and not much of a difference.....All the shops in the US will replace the .12 with .10

theDogger

Us and EU are the same.

stock mid

20.11

18.11

16.11

14.11

11.30 2x ------only one listed on the sheet.

17.30 2x

0.3mm more float makes a big different.:smirk:

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Dogger, that fork base valve stack sounds good and is actually very similar to what I was going to try next, I don't have the exact shims that you call out. The shock is much too stiff though. I just ran the setup that I listed and it was the best I've run so far. It really helped the forks too now that they are closer to being balanced. The rear may still be slightly stiff though, I'll have to keep experimenting.

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I think you are trying to influence a region of damping with the wrong circuits..

AKA you WANT less low speed damping...

But you currently lessoning mid and high speed damping.

I would first focus on a low speed damping solution before trying to "address" the rest...

I think you will find better results this way too.

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Dogger, that fork base valve stack sounds good and is actually very similar to what I was going to try next, I don't have the exact shims that you call out. The shock is much too stiff though. I just ran the setup that I listed and it was the best I've run so far. It really helped the forks too now that they are closer to being balanced. The rear may still be slightly stiff though, I'll have to keep experimenting.

Ok just remember....

Springs are weight sensitive and valving is speed sensitive!

and to many times not people think that going to lighter stacks is the answer and keep going lighter because it is getting rougher and rougher. when in fact that a making it rougher because of the valving it is allowed to drop too deep into the stroke and as a result harsh....

Humor yourself and try the setup to the "T" on the forks and shock you might be surprised!

theDogger:thumbsup:

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