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HELP I've had it with my KLR 250!

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I have a 1999 Kawasaki KLR 250 dual sport. The bike starts fairly easy and idles great. Actually, I think it would idle all day, but as soon as you begin to rev and the tach hits 3000 rpms it shuts off. This is very consistent and acts the same as if I hit the kill switch. If I start with the throttle open and immmediately hit 5000 or more rpms, the bike will continue to run, but once I let the throttle drop to around 3000 it shuts off.

I have taken the carb apart so many times, I could do it in my sleep, boiled it, soaked it and still no change. I took the breather off and tried the same throttle actions to verify the slide was working correctly and all seemed normal. The drop of the slide came after the engine quit, not before.

I have swapped (with used parts) the coil, spark plug spark plug wire, cdi, and pickup coil with no change in behavior. Checked and rechecked all connections for loose or bare wire, set the valves, checked fuel flow and compression release. Compression is around 110 and does not leak. I am at my wits end and don't know where to look.

Surely someone much smarter than me can help resolve this. Please help!

Stan

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Have u checked the air filter, and also the electrical supply items such as rectifier and cdi?

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Yes, the air filter checked, re-oiled, dry, etc. all the same. The rectifier checks to specs. The cdi unit was switched with another one off of a running KLR and same results.

I am stumped....

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I wonder if the specific vibrations at 3k RPMs is having an effect on some electrical component. I'm guessing the fuses are the old glass type? Just to rule it out, I replace the main fuse with new.

Try to wiggle the wiring at the ignition switch and the switch itself while the bike is running.

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It has one glass at the battery which I replaced. I removed the tank and ran a long hose to the carb. Ran the bike and tried to move every component I could and did not find a short. I have not removed the harness wrapping yet to see if I have a hot spot, but guess that will be next. Thanks for the suggestions!

This saga continues...

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Do you have a good spark when it dies, also is the plug wet like it is flooding out for some reason. My klx 250 has a simular problem. When you find the problem please let me know.

mfrank

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I have good spark, and the plug is dry. I am going to take the carb off again and check everything. I don't know what I could have missed, but trying. I saw a video that showed how to check the slide using a shopvac, so will check and see if slide is working correctly. Next is just the fuel level in bowl.

If I find anything will let you know.

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Thanks for suggestions. I have seen the page before and tried everything I know. Not sure I know what the smal metal piece that you are referring to. I think I am going to take the carb into our local bike shop and let them do a once over to see if I am missing something. I don't know what else to do.

Thanks

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The small metal piece referred to is a brass needle jet that sets above the brass jet holder (the piece that the main jet is screwed into). It would seem that the mid range condition you describe could be affected if this piece was missing.

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I had a similar problem with my KLR250 not wanting to rev over maybe 3000 rpm. It was caused by the holes on the side of the emulsion tube being plugged. That is the tube the jet needle slides into, above where the main jet screws in. Once I cleaned them out, the KLR250 ran beautifully.

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Thanks for the tip. I had cleaned this once before, but just bought a can of carb cleaner and plan on soaking again. Does anyone know if the plastic elbows will unscrew on the cvk34? If not I will lay it on it's side so they are not in the chemical.

I talked with a mechanic yesterday and his opinion was that it wasn't the carb, but the stator. Anyone have any thoughts on this as I sure hate to spend the $$ on a new stator if this is not the problem.

Thanks to everyone trying to help.

Stan

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This is silly but I have had the tach actually nominate itself for an on its own make its own rules rev limiter.

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Thanks for the tip. I had cleaned this once before, but just bought a can of carb cleaner and plan on soaking again. Does anyone know if the plastic elbows will unscrew on the cvk34? If not I will lay it on it's side so they are not in the chemical.

I talked with a mechanic yesterday and his opinion was that it wasn't the carb, but the stator. Anyone have any thoughts on this as I sure hate to spend the $$ on a new stator if this is not the problem.

Thanks to everyone trying to help.

Stan

i've heard of others boiling their carbs in water to help clean out the varnish from tight areas.

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The best way to clean out the small holes in pilot jets and emulsion tubes is with a wire. I've personally found that just because it looks clean, you can see light through it and carb cleaner blasts through it - it may not be clean enough. Only by running a small diameter wire through there was I able to get it running correctly.

Interesting comment on the tachometer.

I'm no expert here, but I think you can check the stator by measuring the resistance on the leads.

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Thanks everyone for the tips. I soaked the carb for 2 days, cleaned and blew it out with compressed air. Also took wire and pushed through all the holes I could find. All seems clear as well as good movement witht he slide.

I checked the tach by disconnecting and running.

With each change the symptoms remain the same.

Thanks again...

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IT WAS THE STATOR!!!!!!

I ordered a used one from Ebay, put it on tonight and WOW! What a difference. I think I could do a wheelie in the first 3 gears. I could never get over 60 on level and 65 on a downhill. Tonight I had no issues with hitting 80 on the interstate with more throttle to go!

That's what I'm talking about! :ride:

Thanks to all that sent in suggestions and hopefully this will help.

Stan

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