OIL: drained 200ml's short, but hidden 400ml's?

When I usually drain my oil I have it on the side stand that goes into the axle, and I usually drain it into a big jug. Well I had the wheels off and so I drained the oil while it was on the box stand into an old oil bottle this time.

After all the oil came out I leaned the bike in all 4 directions and nothing was left. I noticed on the bottle I drained it into only 700ml's came out. Which means there is 200ml's missing.

I went to fill it up but this time I took the check bolt out; normally I'll leave it in and measure what I put in. After only 500ml's of oil was in oil started coming out of the check bolt. I thought that to be very odd because I still have to add 400ml's. Any ideas as to what's going on?


The check bolt is to make sure there is oil in the bike.

It is not the full line for the oil level.

Oh okay, thanks. The manual was somewhat confusing. It was saying to put 900ml in there, but at the same time to let the oil drain out of the check bolt and that's the proper level. I went ahead and put in 900ml like I normally do. Thanks.-

The check bolt is a kind of minimum level, as in-if the bikes on a level surface and no oil flows out of here then don't start it.

If you remove that check bolt when you top up or replace the oil it will seep out there almost as fast as you pour it in. You are filling up the clutch casing and rhs casing, the oil sump transfer ports aren't big enough to let the oil settle into the other parts of the engine quickly (for a reason) so you need to give it time before touching this bolt. I just leave it now, I know how much oil I put in there, and I change my oil every 2 rides so I don't worry about it. The best thing I ever did when I switched to 4st was buy oil and filters in bulk, that way you don't economise with the engine maintenance!

On a side note, when I did my rebuild I noticed how much oil was still in the stator housing after I had drained it. So now I have a big drip tray with 1 inch sides and I remove the Allen plugs on the stator casing and lay the bike on its right hand side then left hand side a couple of times to get as much of the old oil through into the gearbox and out, I should measure it sometime but for now I put oil pads in the drip tray which soak it up.

Figured out all of my problems. The exhaust valves and piston rings were wore out and I was burning oil badly but since it was synthetic there was no smoke. I guess running it really hard for that race plus the fact it was burning oil, hence running low on oil, is what caused the crank rod bearing to seize.

Lesson learned: Always measure the amount of oil drained during oil changes.

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