Jump to content
Antigravity Batteries Product Giveaways - LAST NIGHT TO ENTER! Read more... ×
Sign in to follow this  

kickstart help for 2004 klx 110

Recommended Posts

I took it to the shop the other day and they said I needed a new kickstart shaft and that it was going to cost 400 100 for the part and 300 for the labor cause u have to take the engine apart. Isaac wondering if anyone could help me do it or have any tips cause I can't pay 400 to get it fixed. If anyone could send me a link to buy the kickatart shaft or even tell me what it is and does it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I took it to the shop the other day and they said I needed a new kickstart shaft and that it was going to cost 400 100 for the part and 300 for the labor cause u have to take the engine apart. Isaac wondering if anyone could help me do it or have any tips cause I can't pay 400 to get it fixed. If anyone could send me a link to buy the kickatart shaft or even tell me what it is and does it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Thank-you for the service manual it helped alot but exactly why do I have to take the engine apart to replace the kick shaft.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hell for that price ship the damn thing to me. If you are even somewhat mechanically inclined these motors are a breeze to work on. Is it the primary that broke?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Im not sure what does primary mean lol im a noob lol they just told me it was the kickstart shaft.and that it cost so much to fix cause u have to take the engine apart.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Its most likely the primary gear which yes the cases need to be split. If it is the "kickstart shaft" like they are saying(highly unlikely) only the clutch cover needs to come off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

oh and google is your friend i.e. "kickstart shaft diagram"; primary gear, etc. etc.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think that's it cause when u try to kick it it makes a weird noise like there is a gear wrong. Is it hard to change. And how expensive is primary gear.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And is it also called a primary gear or what would it be called if im looking for it on bike bandit

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

primary gear requires splitting of the cases so you must be somewhat mechanically inclined. Its not terribly difficult but can be overwhelming for someone that has never done it before. yes it should be called the primary gear.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

^^I think you mean the Output Shaft, not the Primary Drive Gear.

PDG's don't break. The pre-08' Output Shafts do break. Right at the oiling hole.

And you don't have to split the cases to get to the PDG. Just take off the clutch cover.

For the Output Shaft, you will have to split the cases.

But yes, if it's the kicker shaft, it's possible to remove it without splitting the cases.

It fits into a big cutaway in the center cases behind the clutch basket.

Unfortunately, it's more likely it's the Output Shaft.

If you do have to split the cases, you may as well put in CHP's billet 2nd gear & a 4th gear shift drum.

If you want more power, add a stroker crank, and bore the cases for a big-bore kit (bigger than a 144 kit) down the road.

Edited by XLR8RR

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks guys for all the help im trying to find output shaft on bike bandit buut cant seem to find it. is it an expensive part.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

when i search output shaft it comes up 2nd gear output shaft, top output shaft, 3rd gear output shaft. are any of those right or is it just output shaft?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just got the output shaft in the mail hope fully I can fix it now.anyone have any diagrams or manuals on how to do it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

just use google. Usualy in images some diagrams pop up -otherwise you may need to order a manual.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By jackfreese
      Had a different style intro, I had fun with it. Not sure if people will like it but let me know! I'll be posting more KLX stuff in the future
    • By oldmxer63
      Recently I purchased a KLX 110L for my 8-yr old, 65lb. Grandson.  I wanted to go with one of the little 110s as my Grandson is a beginner rider having only riden about 6-mos. on a CRF50F. I chose the "L" model because it has a manual clutch and I want my Grandson to learn a manual clutch as early in his learning curve as possible. I also chose the "L" because it sits 2" taller in the saddle and my Grandson is tall for his age. I thought the added extra suspension travel over the standard 110 would be nice as well.
       
      I decided against a full blown 65cc MX racer as I have no idea if my Grandson is gonna like the whole race scene..., or just choose to trail ride with his buddy who rides a TTR90. We will try a beginner 65cc MX class on his 110 this Spring and if he likes racing we will look for a racer in '15.
       
      Anyway, once I got the bike I was disappointed to find that the KLX110L's suspension was designed more for teenage or young adult riders (pit bike crowd), and not kid weight riders in the 60-80lb. weight range. The rear shock on the "L" is so stiff it won't even move when riden by a beginner kid weight rider! The forks are also pretty stiff but can be made to work well enough by adjusting oil volume and, or, viscosity.
       
      I searched the forums and retailers for a reasonably priced replacement shock sprung for a kid weight rider, but no luck. The standard 110 uses a 260mm shock while the 110L uses a 288mm shock. Not only could I not find a shock near the OEM length, but nothing even close to spring weight for youth riders.  Seems all the aftermarket shocks available at the retailers are the proper length for the standard 110 and sprung heavy for folks 150-250lbs. I could have a very expensive custom shock made for the bike and my Grandson's weight but that doesn't make sense to me as this 110 is a learner bike and not intended to be a full blown race bike.
       
      I spoke with a guy at BBR and learned that they felt the "L" was "jacked-up" too high in the rear and was told it handled better if it is lowered a little. Now the search was on again and I learned the KTM 50SX Senior shock from year models 98-01 was 277mm long and was for sure built for youth riders. The KTM shock has pre-load adjustment and so I was pretty sure this shock could be made to work for the application we were looking for.
       
      I learned the KTM shock shows as a new OEM part on the parts finder and reasonably priced at about $90.It took 3-weeks to get the shock but it did arrive. As of this writing the shock is still available as a new OEM part.
       
      The shock is almost ready to bolt right on the 110L, but not quite. The mount bushings on the KTM 50SX Senior shock are too wide to fit the mounts on the 110L, but can be turned down to the correct width and then the shock bolts right up (see photos)!
       
      Once mounted, the KTM shock's damping and spring rate seems perfect for a light weight beginner, youth rider on the 110L. The pre-load adjustment allowed us to set sag for my Grandson's 75lb (with gear) ride weight.
       
      In conclusion, let me remind that this modification is aimed at kid/youth weight beginner riders wishing to ride the KLX 110L model and have a working rear shock.  This mod. is not for advanced kid/youth racers, or teen weight riders.
       
      Hope this thread helps someone also unsatisfied with the stock "L" shock for their beginner youth rider.
       
       
      Randy
       
       
      KLX110L OEM Shock:
       
      Length: 288mm eye-to-eye
      Spring Diameter: 2.5"
      Spring Wire Diameter: 8.5mm
      Mounting Hole I.D.: 10mm
      Mounting Bushing Width: .780"
       
      KTM 50SX Senior (98-01) OEM Shock
       
      Length: 277mm eye-to-eye
      Spring Diameter: 2.0"
      Spring Wire Diameter: 7mm
      Mounting Hole I.D.: 10mm
      Mounting Bushing Width: .865"
       
      The KTM shock is about 1/2" shorter than the stock "L" shock. Using the KTM 50SX Senior shock lowers the KLX110L rear ride height by 7/8" compared to the stock "L" shock.
       
       
      The KTM 50SX Senior shock fits nicely on the KLX110L

       
      OEM KTM 50SX Senior shock & OEM Kawasaki KLX 110L shock

       
      OEM KLX 110L shock is 288mm long while the KTM 50SX Senior shock is 277mm long

       

       
      The KTM shock is made in Italy by Paioli

       

       
      Stock KTM Mounting Bushing is .865" wide

       
      Mounting Bushing must be turned-down to .790" wide for a perfect fit on my KLX 110L

       
      Preload adjustment rings are easy to access on the KTM shock mounted on the "L"

       

       
      Lower & Upper mounting

       

       
      OEM KLX110L shock ride height reference at 18-1/2"

       
      OEM KTM 50SX Senior shock ride height reference at 17-5/8" or, 7/8" lower than stock shock ride height

    • By StillCantRide
      March 2016 I bought my first motorbike
      A CRF50
      May 2016 I moved to a 2.5acre block and started creating jumps for my level of riding
      I really tried to make the most of the natural features that were hidden beneath the grass/weeds
      but I really just ended up adding to a worm line that we constantly rode
      and added lip to sections that we saw fit.

      Straight / last corner

      First Jump 
      Sandy burm

      Exit burm, minor woops into second jump

      Second Jump followed by small burm


      Small lip into into uneven decent into the last burm/beginning
      Perhaps this is a good start for a youngster on his/her first bike
      I failed to mention that I was born in 1995.
      This track was fun to start with but it was not long until this simply wasn't enough

      I started to build this line which opposed the direction of the original track.
      But the idea was to jump this, hit the small burm and then go onto hit a big jump..
      But I got distracted by what I accidentally created.

      A little dodgy I know, this is the creation of when you can no longer be bothered digging and use random items to fill the gaps.

      Imagining is a great thing to do and to visualize is even better ! I took photos of my jumps and drawn on them with my smart phone.
      Little did I know this was going to be the most crashed jump of my life (so far)

      This was the beginning of my laziest effort. Pallet down ramp.

      These are pretty great if done well.
      -Level the area for stable stacking of pallets
      -Use pallets to fill most of desired down ramp space.
      -Then put any type of thick wood on top (helps spread the load and not crack pallets)
      -Then carpet so soil doesn't fall through the cracks
      -Last add soil/clay and lots of it !

      I learnt the hard way

      (not the greatest effort on the jump but it puts the size in perspective a little)
      This jump quickly became our favourite
      And the little track quickly got forgotten and over grown.
      My lust for a bigger and greater jump and had clouded my mind...
      And with bigger jumps you soon require a bigger bike
      and this is when I upgraded to the KLX110L 2016

      My stupidness resulted in this creation

      It stood at about 6ft

      And shook in the breeze

      After the result of poor pallet down ramp I realised making these sketchy jumps is dangerous and requires a lot of maintenance.
      So I contacted a lot of earth moving companies. And tried finding companies that were working on clay sites.
      This was free for me and should be for you. Each load of dirt 15-20t costs roughly $450 to dump in some parts of Australia.
      So I offered free dumping within my yard, I get dirt for jumps and they save a lot of money, win win.

      My first load arrived, roughly 17t of dirt.... it sounds like a lot but it really is not.
      I got these big crate boxes from work and screwed a door across the top of them to help spread the load.
      The crates are only there to try and save anybody that is lacking the correct speed.

      Progress was slow, but I needed to move this first load up against the crates as much as possible to allow the track to back in closer to the pallets.

      When I cant be bothered digging or don't have the dirt. I like to visualize what it will be like in the end

      Finally destroyed the old ramp and created a new one with the most desired material.

      That's what 4 days afterwork of my digging looks like (4 hours a night),

      worth the giant blisters
      This is about 22-26ft jump which is a good/fun size I believe.
       
      This is currently where I am at but I do think my plans are pretty great

      This is the plan for the future
      Apologies for not numbering the above photo
      The yellow jump with the 16 beside it is my pallet jump which is jump #1
      And the second large jump of 21ft is the orange one that follows and that is jump #2
      From now I ask that you use your imagination and hopefully can figure out which ones are which in regards to the following images.

      This one is Jump # 3
      Note the burm will not swing around the tree and go to the left.
      This will be a bit of a hip and send you into a right hand turn quickly followed by a left as shown on the birds eye view.


      #4 is going to be a pretty hectic step down that I am already scared of the idea !

      #5 is going to be a 25ft hip

      #6 is going to be roughly a 20ft triple (rollable)

      #7 will be a 17-18ft tabletop

      #8 and #9 need to swap as I think double-table-double would flow a lot nicer rhythm wise....

      #11 a good sized triple roughly 18ft
      Into a hopefully very vertical burm
      Then into a +20ft hip to finish it off through the trees
       
      Hope you've enjoyed this read so far.
      I will keep you updated with the progression of the rest of the track.
      Please feel free to give me tips (other than spelling) in regards to the track and ideas.
      Cheers
      Jackson









    • By Joseph18roberts
      My dirt bike was driven daily no issues besides petcock leaking a little gas and one day It quit running while I was riding it and started acting up the next day I tried and it would start but it wouldn't idle I would have to rev it high to stay running and it would backfire real bad this was a couple months ago anyone know what could be the issue if so let me know please gonna look at it tomorrow thank you in advance 
    • By luke8500
      Hi all, I have a completely stock 2005 Suzuki drz110 (same thing as a klx110) and it is running way to rich. It wont idle at all but will hang before it dies. It puffs a little bit of black smoke too. It always starts 1st kick and has decent power. Jets are stock at 35 pilot and 80 main. playing with the idle and fuel screws don`t do anything. Spark plug is black but it doesn't foul plugs. checked all around engine for air leaks with carb and choke cleaner and have found none. Air filter is clean and valves were just adjusted. Im out of things to try. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
       
      Thanks
      Luke
×