Cheap and easy license plate bracket for dr650

I dont know about everyone else but i really disliked the way the giant mud-flap/license plate holder looked on the rear of my dr. So i began looking on TT for ideas on how to improvise something to get rid of the stock license plate holder. On the homemade side I saw everything from mudflaps to zip-ties and bungee cords. I then looked into what the professionals had to offer. The nicest option i found was from the dr-masters at Pro-Cycle in Springfield, Oregon. They have a beautiful laser cut bracket which is far a far cry above anything else i found.

The only problem was that Pro-Cycle's bracket is 30.00$ and i wasnt looking to spend that much so i went to the local hardware store and purchased a piece of 1/8" thick, 1" aluminum flat bar.

I removed the license plate and the giant black piece of plastic that suzuki calls a license plate holder.

Then i measured and cut two pieces of the flat bar at approximately 5". Then i bent the pieces in my vice at 3" and around a 45 degree angle. I drilled a hole 1/2" from either end of each piece (you will want to drill the holes on the 3" side first then screw the plates into the two holes where the old license plate holder went and then hold your license plate up to the brackets to see how high you want it to go).

The brackets wont line up with the holes in your license plate so i drlled two holes to match the width of the brackets (also called dmv to make sure that was legal).

then drill the holes on the two inch side of the brackets and attach your license plate. (i used the existing hardware for all of the connections).

One last task... the giant black license plate holder is also where your license plate light is.

I bought an l.e.d. license plate light that has an adhesive strip on itfrom pro cycle for a little less than 20$ If i wasnt impatient i wouldve bought one online for less. Also i just went to cycle gear and they have them for ten bucks. the light draws less current than the stock one so no worries there.

I wired the light into the stock wires and stuck it underneath the end of my rear fender.

I forgot to mention 4' of the aluminum flat bar cost me ten bucks and i have 38" left for my next project.

so if you buy a cheap l.e.d. and the flat bar your into it less than 20$ total.

heres a picture of the finished product.

http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb365/falconblumangold/Dr%20Mods/IMG_20110512_185352.jpg

Edited by Montana1

The only problem i see with your brackets is that your plate will crack and fall off do to vibrations. Even with the bracket I got from Procycle I had to reinforce the back of the plate with a thick piece of plastic and stitch the plate back together with zip ties. So keep an eye on it or you will loose it.

The only problem i see with your brackets is that your plate will crack and fall off do to vibrations.

Too true. Been there and done that.:smirk: I fixed mine by adding two straps to each side made of 1/8" by 1" aluminum bar from the top two holes down to the bottom two holes and then used 4 bolts with washers. For the OP's design, it looks like you could just make two new straps that are long enough to reach the bottom holes. That should stop the vibration cracks.:smirk:

The OEM license holder is made from 'brittle feeling' plastic to me.

I am going to do the same thing, remove the 'fragile' black plastic and streamline it.

smass, are you saying that the actual license plate will crack? hmmm, that thought never crossed my mind.

smass, are you saying that the actual license plate will crack? hmmm, that thought never crossed my mind.

Yep, they crack real easy. It just needs to be supported like jaeger22 said. I cut a piece of hard plastic about 1/8 in. thick the same size as the plate and then botled both to the bracket with 4 bolts. I havent had a problem since. It only took 2 or 3 rides for mine to crack. I also used the light from procycle wich burnt out, then they sent me a new one, and it also burnt out. to much water i think. So i bought a set of the led L.P. bolt lights and so far so good.

I also used the light from procycle wich burnt out, then they sent me a new one, and it also burnt out. to much water i think. So i bought a set of the led L.P. bolt lights and so far so good.

Darn, after reading this, i went and checked mine. Of 5 LED's only two are still lit.:prof: one more thing to fix.:smirk:

Here is my old tag showing what happens when you just mount it by the top:

IMG-20110529-00012.jpg

And here is my fix:

IMG-20110529-00013.jpg

So far so good!:smirk:

Not trying to diss on Procycle, but the led L.P. lights they sell just didnt work. But the led bolt lights are from the same company that makes the ones Procycle sells and so far so good.

smass, thanks for the info. in an attempt to delay my pro cycle l.e.d. from failing i went and gobbed some silicone where the wires run into the light. this should help unless the water is coming in around the lens.

i couldnt see your picture or link of your broken plate but i was wondering if the cracks started at the bolt holes or if it cracked in the middle. I have rubber washers on it which should help with the vibration stress but i did notice that when i rev the beast up the bottom of the license plate has about an inch of vibratory travel.

i have never had a tag crack like that (have the Pro Cycle bracket and l.e.d) although i bent one real good once. As for the l.e.d.'s it may be the vibes that are killing them not the water. they are probably soldered to a PCB and some where there is going to to be a voltage regulator in there as most l.e.d.'s don't run on 12 volts, i think they run on less than 6 volts but i don't know the exact number.

i have my tag light mounted to the underside of the rear finder and all 5 still light up (had to go out and check) maybe the plastic fender dampens the vibes a bit.

i was wondering if the cracks started at the bolt holes or if it cracked in the middle. I have rubber washers on it which should help with the vibration stress but i did notice that when i rev the beast up the bottom of the license plate has about an inch of vibratory travel.

My plate cracked at the bottom of the bracket and started makeing its way across the plate, not at the mounting holes. You just need a way to keep the plate riggid and not vibrating.Since you have the metal already, i would make it like jaeger22 did. If i can get some pics and learn how to post them i will.

I used a trailer truck mud flap

SANY0035-1.jpg

when installing the new sheet metal lic.plate braket to the bottom side of brake lite. is a good idea to use the rubber gromets to dampan the hi speed vibration???

BearingCrusher.......

Anything you can do (including rubber grommets, washers, etc.) To reduce vibration would be a good idea. If your having trouble finding rubber washers or bushings the sprinkler parts section of your local hardware store will have a nice selection.

And you mentioned you were attaching this bracket to the bottom of the brake light? I wouldn't do that, I would tie it in to the two bolt holes in the very end of your subframe.

Look at my photobucket picture to get a better idea...the only thing id change is I would make brackets longer to tie into the bottom of the license plate.

I made my own using only parts that came off the old one, and a sturdy metal license plate frame.

(I was trial fitting the bags)

a49b2463.jpg

91f99245.jpg

There was a stand-off bracket that I used to elevate the plate and aim it down, and there were rubber bushings that I used to mount it. You just drill a hole in the fender the size of the inner neck of the bushing so it fits snug, and bolt it together with fender washers nice and tight. It is flexible.

I also used my Dremel with cut-off wheels to cut a large chunk out of the bottom of the tail light. I then glued clear plastic into the hole I made so now I have white light shining on the plate instead of red.

Billygoat.......what are you planning on using to keep your bags off the exhaust and away from the tire? I made some halfway decent racks out of 1/4" thick 1 inch aluminum flat bar.

http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb365/falconblumangold/Dr%20Mods/IMG_20110530_141350.jpg

Of course their not as strong as the happy trails, etc. But they only cost 20$ to build, I also found some j-bolts to tie them in to the existing factory rack/grab handles.

Here's with the bags, the racks are surprisingly sturdy.

http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb365/falconblumangold/Dr%20Mods/IMG_20110530_172700.jpg

Billygoat.......what are you planning on using to keep your bags off the exhaust and away from the tire? I made some halfway decent racks out of 1/4" thick 1 inch aluminum flat bar.

http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb365/falconblumangold/Dr%20Mods/IMG_20110530_141350.jpg

Of course their not as strong as the happy trails, etc. But they only cost 20$ to build, I also found some j-bolts to tie them in to the existing factory rack/grab handles.

Here's with the bags, the racks are surprisingly sturdy.

http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb365/falconblumangold/Dr%20Mods/IMG_20110530_172700.jpg

I ordered the Happy Trails racks and some other parts from them but I'm starting to wish I hadn't because their backlog is more than a month long.

I should've made my own. Yours look great.

cheap.086.jpg

cheap.

But illegal, need a light to illuminate the plate.

But illegal, need a light to illuminate the plate.

Two years with this plate and no mirrors and probally about 3,500 miles on the highway and have never been pulled over. Had a few follow me but I don't know if that was to check the plate or because of the of my heavy throttle and Two brothers can. I've seen thousands of sport bikes with thier plates under the fender that you can't see and have no lights so I'll take my chance of a warning or a cheap fine over a crappy bracket all day. I was thinking about a led light when I did this and have seen some cool ones that use the two top holes of the plate and look like chrome caps that direct light onto the plate but I can't remember who sells them.

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