what i found about fork oil

so im on my quest to finish up the 450 i bought back 2.5 mo ago just have to finish putting on graphics ,which went well found the dry method worked best.

anyway not the point here .

so my forks were leaking and it was the last on the list to do , so i followed the steps with pics in the faqs above .

ive been putting it off because i had some black rub marks on the tubes , and when i bought the seals i didnt notice that , so i had order a bushing kit figuring they were bad too,when i got them apart nothing looked real worn ,but i replaced the bushing anyway, so next was the inner chambers , i had a 3/4 bottle of belray , and a full bottle a maxima , so i did the first one with the belray , the tube would run the full stroke top to bottom ,that one was good , filled the out side tube 13oz put in my new FC springs in and called it a day on that side , went to the other ,since i didnt have enough to do the whole thing i thought i'd just use the maxima on this side , what i found was no matter how many times i bled it and strated over i could never get the tube to extend on its own the last 1/2'' so i went and got another bottle of the belray ,filled it and presto the tube would extend no problem.

both were 5w anyone have a reason the maxima wouldnt extend the tube? ive heard thats normal but if one would fully extend i wanted the other too.

not that it matter to me know ,i'll just use belay from now on

It was more the luck of your bleed, not the fork oil. When they damper rod doesnt extend all the way is because there is still a significant amount of air and its displacing the necessary oil level in the inner chamber.

What happens is the all of the spring force isnt directly acting on the damper rod to extend it. Some of the spring force is being used up compressing the air in the damper and since air is squishy, it compresses before the pressure is high enough to over come the traction of the seal on the damper rod and the piston in the damper itself.

Ok , thanks ,Im a little nervous about the rub marks on the tubes now, the more i think about it , i really thought the bushings were worn out causing marks, now im hoping the tube isnt slightly bent from a hard crash, ive got it back together , or i would go role it on a flat surface to check , shawn or anyone have a suggetion where to initialy set the clickers , all stock just .48 springs my service manual doesnt say i dont think?

should i set it hard and go soft ,or vise versa

start with the compression at about 8 and the rebound at 10.

will do thanks

In the future, if you guys have a couple different kinds of fork oil you're going to use up, box it all together first so you've got a consistent mix at least.

Pour it all together in a clean coffee can or something and mix it altogether. That way you don't have something odd happening and if one is going to react with the other you'll be able to see whats happening BEFORE it goes into the fork. And if something does happen, you can at least go out and buy enough of the same oil to do the fork entirely.

Ive actually had to do this a couple times when guys grab stuff off the shelf and bring their junk over to rebuild and at the last minute notice they've got two different fork oils or weights or whatever...

I havent had an issue with it yet..but that might just be Irish luck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now