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rekluse z start pro guys

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I recently installed one on my yz 250 and unfortunatly I can only ride for a couple laps in the yard (shoulder issue) anyhow, I seem to have to have my clutch cable tighter then the manual calls for in order for it to not disenguage. I have checked the clearances, but I am only seeing max clearances, no mins. I called rekluse and they talked me through getting it to disenguage via tightening the cable (and they called ME back...props for that). anyhow, I keep hearing of tales of running without a clutch lever, but I just do not see it. I have tried a few spring settings and am still required to fan the clutch to get on the pipe from a dead stop. I do get 99.7% disenguagement. the thin shim plate is not mixed in my pack. my frictions are basically new and oil soaked.

so, those that have been here, what are your suggestions. I feel like I could snug up the cable more, but that would seem to introduce slip all the time.

thanks.

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I have the pro on my KTM XCW300. when I originally put it on, I too had to use the clutch at a dead stop, or it would quit, and i had to be careful on downhills about locking up the rear.

I called rekluse back and went to a different spring, and like magic - it idles perfectly, barely wanting to creep until I wick it up. I went to a left hand rear brake, but was worried about no clutch , so i actually mounted it (clutch lever) under the LHRB. I use it occasionally, to help find neutral, but I really don't have any need for it.

since you have apparently played with the springs - I am at a loss - have you tried turning up the idle just a bit? Did Rekluse say anthing about changing the number of balls?

Carl Johansson

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I have tried all and minus 3 balls. It sounds like I am close, but I can't imagine being faster the way it is. I am geared a bit taller then I would normally be, but I thought it would slip through it.

I am used to coming out of a corner and fanning the clutch for traction and get in the meat of power....I don't see that happening the way it is without a clutch lever.

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What you ae looking for might not be there. I run the med spring with 27 balls. The over-ride will provide disengagement unil you hit high revs...then you will get a certain amount of drive.

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I would like it to slip progressively less to about 2500ish rpm. It seems to lock up around 1200-1500.

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I do not mind keeping the lever, it just is odd having 1/2" travel. I do not want to break it when I crash.

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Did the guys from Rekluse suggest using 24 balls. The spring will determine the engagement point whereas the number or type of balls will determine the amount of slip

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yes, and Iam currently running 24 balls. I am thinking I need more spring. I am running the two right now that should be the stiffest, but perhaps one is sacked out.

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I have tried all and minus 3 balls. It sounds like I am close, but I can't imagine being faster the way it is. I am geared a bit taller then I would normally be, but I thought it would slip through it.

I am used to coming out of a corner and fanning the clutch for traction and get in the meat of power....I don't see that happening the way it is without a clutch lever.

the pro will make you rocket out of the corner, no need for fanning - this is one of the 2 biggest gains in speed in my opinion, coming out of a corner these things come out like they were shot out of a cannon, no fanning required. gearing isn't an issue for ridability, but you will; need the correct gearing for your powerband - the clutch will slip and engage at any rpm, but if you are out of your powerband - it won't help alot. you need to be in the correct rpm range.

If you go into a corner lugging - then pull the clutch rev it up and dump the clutch to get into the powerband, you may have to alter your riding a bit - go into the corner, get in the correct gear and roll on the power - your buddies will still be reving up their motors - while you are hooked up and blasting out of the corner

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that is what I am hoping for. right now it hooks up too soon and the bike is pulled down. It is all I can do to keep it from stalling the bike at idle. I know it will be great when I get it tuned, but I am running out of parts to tune with. I am going to order up some springs.

what takes the clutch cable place on the delete kit. my bike will stall 100% of the time w/o cable tension.

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Your problem may lie some place else. I you are having trouble with the motor stalling out at idle....your pilot settings are off. Clutch cable tension should not be a factor.

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It idles fine as long as it is not in gear. I can't get the clutch free play and the bike to idle at the same setting.....one or the other.

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Put the stock gearing on it and see how it works. If it works as designed with the stock gearing I am thinking you are either in the wrong gear or have the bike geared too high!

jOE

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the culprit was a stretched clutch cable. I added what seemed like too much cable tension and suddenly I see what the love is all about.

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