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how do you fix this?!?!?

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how can you fix this? one of the vale cotters was half way out when i re-checked my shim clearances...i pulled it onout before i realized what it was...is there any way to put it back in with out removing the head?

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If it was me, I would pull the head to put it back together. I'm not sure if there is a way to put it back together without removing the head? I would also spring for new valve cotters if I was in your shoes as well. I cant think of any good way to compress and then install that little bugger without possibly dropping a valve into the cylinder. Then you would have to take the head off. and in what ever position the motor was in.

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COTTER, VALVE retail price TT price

12932-24F00 8 $1.46 $1.31

I would also take a real close look at the offending valve too.

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Drop a small rope into your spark plug hole with the piston down until you can't get any more in. Then turn the motor over until the rope is pushed against the valves. This will keep them from dropping down while you compress the spring and install the keeper. I have used this method to change springs.

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If the edges of the valve or the cotter are rounded it can cause them to slip out. Different bike (dr350) but similar cotter design, a buddy of mine had this issue and it caused his valve to drop into the motor while running. From what we could tell after the carnage, was the edges of the cotter were "mushed" or rounded and then came out. As for an actual cause I'm not exactly sure, but I have some theories as to why it might happen. I don't know if I should start throwing theories around though. You might want to wait for Ed to chime in, or someone more knowledgeable than myself.

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Drop a small rope into your spark plug hole with the piston down until you can't get any more in. Then turn the motor over until the rope is pushed against the valves. This will keep them from dropping down while you compress the spring and install the keeper. I have used this method to change springs.

This is an interesting idea, but wouldn't the rope need to be under the offending valve? and how can you assure that the rope gets there? Also depending on the rope, does it compress when force is exerted on it? It sounds like a neat trick, but I would like a little more info on it. Before I might try it myself at some point;)

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When the piston is down let as much rope into the cylinder as you can so the cylinder is basically full of rope. Then just turn the motor over over and it will push up on all of the valves equally. You just need be at the bottom of the compression stroke when you let the rope in. Then to get the keepers back in I use this automotive brake tool I have. It's round and has big holes in the sides so I can push down on the retainer and use a small pick to push the keeper into place. I came up with this method a few years ago when I installed the wrong springs on a bike and didn't realize until I had the head installed. Its kind of redneck but it works.

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Use compressed air in the cylinder to hold the valve up.

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Use compressed air in the cylinder to hold the valve up.

oh excellent idea! but how would you do that?

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Use a compresion tester. Removed the shredder valve from the compression adapter and thread the adapter in to the cylinder then connectet compressed air to the end of the adapter, or use a cylinder leak down tester.

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I'm not at my shop so I can't. But once you get the rope in there and the valve held up it's just a matter of pushing down on #6 on the diagram and getting the keeper to fall in on it's own. If you clean thing up with brake cleaner it's easier because it will fall into place better without the slight drag from the oil. You can do it with a socket. Just push the keeper into place as best as you can. Then place the socket over it and compress the spring and wiggle it a little. When you let off it may or may not be in place. It will probably take a try or two but it can be done this way.

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what size threads is the spark plug hole?

I think it was a 12mm. I would very closely inspect the valve stem retainer & the cotter for ware before reinstalling the cotter and starting the motor. If it pops out when the motor is running you can drop the valve and do major damage.

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so your saying its best just to take off the head and re-do it...do i have to re-do all the valves or can i do only one?

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If you are going to rent one or buy one just take the spark plug with you to match it.

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I think it was a 12mm. I would very closely inspect the valve stem retainer & the cotter for ware before reinstalling the cotter and starting the motor. If it pops out when the motor is running you can drop the valve and do major damage.

^this^

so your saying its best just to take off the head and re-do it...do i have to re-do all the valves or can i do only one?

I would take the head off. Sucks I know, especially right after getting it back together:banghead: But I would take a close look at both the valve this happened too and the cotter. You might want to look at the other valves just in case. In the end it will give you peace of mind.

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so your saying its best just to take off the head and re-do it...do i have to re-do all the valves or can i do only one?

I would inspect it very carfully & most likely send it to a pro like Eddie.

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i dont understand how the air pressure way works?...doesnt the air escape through the exhaust pipe?

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