Bought DRZ400-Lots of questions

The vin says it is a 2002. It has seen better days. I guess the first big question is whether this should be a project or a parts bike? I want it to be a cross country dirt bike, maybe the coast to coast trail. The steering stem has a sticker that says off road only and the vin digit is a 3. I don't know if I can tag the bike in Alabama. There's no steering lock, Keihin carb, no vacuum carb, it has a compression release and both kick and electric start.

I have a long history with bikes and mechanical work but this is my first DRZ. Years ago I had an SP500, closest thing to a DRZ I ever had.

I looked at the FAQs.

You are the only one that can answer the part or not to part question. I can tell you just about every part of the DRZ comes in an aftermarket version, so if you build you can make it as good or better than new. It sounds like you have an "E" model which doesn't come as street legal. But tons of people make them legal, and Bama should be pretty easy. If you have a title you can probably get it tagged. If you don't have a title you can probably get one but the process will be Bama specific, talk to a salvage yard guy to start. Good luck

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Picture of my bike. Did any of them come with electric and kick starters or did someone add the kick to this one?

I changed the oil and cleaned the screen in the frame. Glad I did the screen, it needed it.

I've been looking the bike over. The list is getting pretty long.

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Is this a known problem or a fluke? It seems to spark ok but what I thought was a kill switch doesn't kill the spark.

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the Kick is an add on, never came from the factory that way. Most dont use the decomp when adding the kick start.

and wow, you still have the E snorkel on, read up on the 3x3 mod... One the E bikes its just removing the snorkel which leaves a 3x3 hole.

no idea on the melting on the box there, might just need to replace the connector.

case savers (tt store) and MCCT (Manual Cam Chain Tensioner, buy at tt store) , and locktite fixes are mandatory reliability mods.

-Zach

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Is the subframe supposed to be bent down in the back like this or is this one damaged? Got some cleaning and more inspecting done today. Probably check valve clearances and cam chain tomorrow.

There is a hose from the hot start valve that is loose and not connected to anything. It has a brass nipple in the end of the hose and looks like it connected to the air cleaner box. Sound right?

I downloaded a shop manual for a DRZ400 but it doesn't have e model information like the carb and wiring. Nothing about the hot start valve, I don't have a clue how it is supposed to work.

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Is this an automatic compression release? Do I have both automatic and manual compression releases? Inside of the engine is nice and clean. Cam chain looks like new and the tensioner is working fine. Valve adjustment within specs.

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Edited by DirtIsMyName

i would definately NOT part that bike out! The inside of the head is very clean

I started the bike and it sounds good. I guess I'm gonna have to ride it. The kill switch does work after all.

Thanks for the replies so far. I'll make this work, keep the tips coming.

Drz never came with a hot start lever. Take a picture of the carb.

yes! that is the auto decompression. on the exhaust cam. Do you have a compression release lever on the handlebar below the clutch lever? If so.. there is your answer you have both. cut the auto assembly off of the cam with a dremel. you don't need it. The subframe looks bent to me, but you might be able to straighten it out. the oem hot start assembly pulls fresh cool air through a hose connected to a brass nipple in the air box.

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So it is just an air bypass like the fast idle valve on a car? The arrow points to the hole in the air boot where the brass nipple hooks-up?

I tried a compression test and was foiled by the auto decompression. It is more of a decompression test than a compression test. I do have the decompression on the handlebar so I have both.

The petcock wouldn't stop flowing. I cleaned it out and removed the old rubber film off of the sealing surface inside. The rubber smiley-face had a couple chunks missing so I flipped it over, need a new one.

Is there an easy way to drain the carb? I had to turn the carb sideways to get to the brass plug in the bottom, way too much time involved.

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So it is just an air bypass like the fast idle valve on a car? The arrow points to the hole in the air boot where the brass nipple hooks-up?

yep, that's where it goes.

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Didn't do much to the bike (listened to it run), but I read some more. This may be a big clue, a condenser? So now I am thinking maybe this was a K model bike and came originally with only a kickstart. Someone switched the engine or added the electric start? I don't have a battery or a battery mount or wiring for a battery or wiring to the electric start. No starter button or relay that I have found. What would I look for to tell the difference between a K or E model? I want electric start and lights for street legal riding to connect the trails. Out with the condenser and in with a battery?

I am going to have to go through the carburetor. Any favorite threads or other sources of info that go into the gritty detail of cleaning every little passageway in an FCR? Any parts that automatically get changed when you break down the carb? What else needs to be done to the bike with the carb off?

float bowl gasket,float valve oring,needle jet and ap diaphram.
these guys have the rebuild kits

cw018-870sd i believe.scroll down near the bottom.

http://www.cyclewareables.com/pages/street_motorcycle_carb_repair_kits/streetcarbrepair.htm

From this thread:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=952159&page=2&highlight=fcr+rebuild

Lots of questions, the title said it.

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Edited by DirtIsMyName

No experience with that carb here, but if you plan on going through it, I would just order a rebuild kit for it and rebuild the whole thing.

No experience with that carb here, but if you plan on going through it, I would just order a rebuild kit for it and rebuild the whole thing.

Does anyone make a rebuild kit with detailed diagrams of the carb parts and passages?

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