YZ450f chain type

[FZ1guy]

I was wondering if someone can tell me what chain comes stock on a new YZ450F the 250 may be the same not sure on that. I have a new KTM and the o- ring type is very stiff, I want to replace it with what comes on the Yamaha, seems very free to turn the rear wheel.

Chet

[SAthump]

It's a D.I.D. Try feeling your O ring chain when it's clean & lubed & warm; It will feel nice and lose too.

[grayracer513]

It's a D.I.D.

A very cheap DID at that.

If you want a non-sealed chain, buy a good one, not the OEM junk that they ship YZ's with. But know this: no dyno test I've ever seen has demonstrated any measurable loss of power with a good sealed chain.

If you think about it, the idea is a bit silly. A chain pivots in only 4 places at any one time, so one needs to believe that the friction from 8 little O-rings is going to hold back their 50 hp dirt bike.

[RiderX]

The OEM KTM chains are Regina I believe, and they are good chains. I would keep it on there, especially if you're riding it off road. They don't stretch as nearly as much, and last a lot longer. And as stated above, o-ring chains are stiff until they are warm. Check it again after riding it for a bit. Make sure you are using good lube.

[grayracer513]

Make sure you are using good lube.

This is important, and there's more to it than you might think. The lube that does most of the real work is the stuff that's in and on the pins and bushings, and that's sealed in place and can't be added to except by extraordinary measures. The lube used on the exterior lubes the outer exposed surfaces of the O-rings, the rollers, and the sprockets. The lube needs to be as tack free as possible so as not to attract and hold grit, and should be something that can be readily washed away with low pressure water and soap, like Simple Green. You should avoid using a pressure washer closer to the chain than 10", or at an angle that could force water under the seals.

[Yamiryder]

Hey gray, this is a little off topic but what's a good chain lube that doesn't clog the sprockets with mud? I have bel-ray and it collects all the dirt and then it sticks to my sprocket.?

[grayracer513]

I've had good luck with a Maxima product called Synthetic Chain Guard. I always apply it the night before I ride to give it time to "dry out".

[Yamiryder]

I've had good luck with a Maxima product called Synthetic Chain Guard. I always apply it the night before I ride to give it time to "dry out".

Thanks. I'll check it out!?

[brentn]

I used to use chain wax but it was staining my aluminum yellow.

Now I just use WD40, not the best, but on a part that is replaceable it still lasts a long time and is very very cheap. It also cleans as it lubes, any of the crap that flicks off on the rim/hub washes right off, which is really nice.

I ride some desert now, more like hard pack desert canyon stuff, and the WD lasts quite a while. You hit any puddle though and it's pretty much gone, but I found the exact same problem with the waxes.

I stopped using o-ring chains cause they were rubbing on my frame with the factory slack adjustment (this was on my 05 yz250). ALso, trying to get a master link back into an o-ring chain is a nightmare.

I use a D.I.D. 520MX gold chain, and it's holding up very well. I have just over 20 hours of harsh riding on this chain, and it has stretched but is still very much in spec. I Bought it with a brand new front and rear sprocket. I was riding mostly mountains which is very very wet, I took it through the winter snow/ice and -15 degree temps, and through way way too much mud and she's still good.

Probably will get another 10-20 hours out of it if I'm lucky. For 80$ I think that's pretty good.

Heard from many people that regina chains are the best of the best for non-oring. Might give that a try.

[RiderX]

I used to use chain wax but it was staining my aluminum yellow.

Now I just use WD40, not the best, but on a part that is replaceable it still lasts a long time and is very very cheap. It also cleans as it lubes, any of the crap that flicks off on the rim/hub washes right off, which is really nice.

I ride some desert now, more like hard pack desert canyon stuff, and the WD lasts quite a while. You hit any puddle though and it's pretty much gone, but I found the exact same problem with the waxes.

I stopped using o-ring chains cause they were rubbing on my frame with the factory slack adjustment (this was on my 05 yz250). ALso, trying to get a master link back into an o-ring chain is a nightmare.

I use a D.I.D. 520MX gold chain, and it's holding up very well. I have just over 20 hours of harsh riding on this chain, and it has stretched but is still very much in spec. I Bought it with a brand new front and rear sprocket. I was riding mostly mountains which is very very wet, I took it through the winter snow/ice and -15 degree temps, and through way way too much mud and she's still good.

Probably will get another 10-20 hours out of it if I'm lucky. For 80$ I think that's pretty good.

Heard from many people that regina chains are the best of the best for non-oring. Might give that a try.

WD-40 is not a very good lubricant. It's ok for a cleaner, but I wouldn't even use it for that on my chain, since it also dissolves lubricant. If you clean your chain with WD-40, and then follow it up with a good chain lube, the chain lube will not stick because of the WD-40. I've used Silkolene synthetic lube and Liquid Performance chain lube with pretty good results, I've recently started using the Primary Drive cheap chain lube that Rocky Mountain sells. It sticks really well, and actually stays clean.

Also, if you buy a $10 chain press tool getting the master link together and the clip is a breeze. ?