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DP Clutch Kit Question

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The clutch in our 2009 RMZ250 has finally started slipping. I did some research and found most people recommend sticking with the stock clutch parts. However, in the interest of saving money, I ordered a DP clutch kit, although it may cost more in the long run if the kit turns out to be crap.

But before anyone condemns me too much, I do intend to provide some feedback on how well the DP clutch works and how long it lasts. So it's me being nice and spending money for the benefit of everyone else...LOL.

Anyway, I have a question. In the manual, it shows the furthest in (first installed) driven plate as being differrent to the other 6. The DP driven plates all look the same, although I didn't check their thickness yet in case that's the reason. Aside from the stock one being gray instead of silver like the other 6, can anyone tell me what the actual difference is?

Oddly enough, the stock clutch plates are shown as all being the same, but one in the DP Clutch kit has a black face on one side. I sort of wonder if it's DP's answer to the Suzuki driven plate that's different.

So the first part of my review will be "I wish they'd included some instructions".

Anyway, as soon as I understand why one driven plate is supposed to be different, than I can figure out what's going on with this kit.



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While I cannot comment on the difference in clutch pieces, I can say that I ran a DP clutch in my YZ125 awhile back with great success. Lasted same or longer then OEM too.

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We installed the new DP clutch this evening, and it's a huge difference. Looks like there must have been some slippage with the stock clutch (while shifting) that wasn't apparent to the rider, even though slippage while loading in high gear had become noticeable.

The DP clutch discs have 24 pads per side and the stock plate has 48. The DP pads are much larger though. Not sure if this is good, bad or doesn't make a difference.

Removal of the stock clutch did not reveal much in the way of problems. The original clutch plates looked good and were still in spec. The steell driven plates however, showed blue discolouration, very smooth, almost burnished, but otherwise OK. I couldn't identify any of the stock plates as being different than the others as per the pic in the original post. I did use a digital calipers to check the thickeness, and all seemed to be the same, or close to the same.

Next, in with the new clutch. Measuring everything, I found no difference in thickness or appearance with any of the new DP steel plates. One of the clutch plates was different as one side had black friction material, and the other side was gray. All the other discs had gray material.

I went to the DP-Brakes site and although I did find clutch installation instructions, they were for specific street clutch kits only. So what to do? I figured the only surfaces that were different for clutch faces were the inner washer (narrow surface) and outer pressure plate (aluminum vs steel). So I took a guess and put the black clutch face in first against the washer.

Now the springs. The DP springs are significantly longer and feel much stiffer. Once installed, there is no question the clutch lever takes more force. But it's not unrealistic. Just a little arm pump expected for a while.

The old springs measured in spec, and I bet the old clutch would have worked with only a spring change, but I admit, the stock steel plates wern't in that great condition when we inspected them.

First thing we noticed is how much we had to adjust the clutch cable after everything was buttoned up. A lot of slack there, but it adjusted within the mechanism's range with no problem. I take it we were reversing all the many little clutch adjustments we had done since the bike was new.

And so far, with only 30 minutes on it, it works great. Grabs hard. We had installed an FMF pipe and header recently and noticed a power increase, but now with the clutch working so well, the power is even more apparent. Perfect for the hole shot, if the nerve is there...LOL.

Clutch drag (engine off, in gear, clutch lever in, try to push bike) seemed worse before the bike was given a test run, but was normal once the test run was over. Probably due to oil getting into the clutch as we installed it dry as per the DP advertising hype.

Next step is to give it a good practise session and then change the oil. There was some fur around the new clutch friction material from the manufacturing process (just friction material from what appears to be not a clean cut). Between that and a little expected wear bedding in the clutch, it will be good to change the oil.

So now we see how long it will last.

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