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I want KTM back brakes

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My bike is down for parts at the moment and a friend let me borrow his 2010 300 XC for a race yesterday. Originally I was concerned that I wouldn't be able to go back after sipping the Kool Aid. The bike was good but I actually missed my 05 YZ 250 more often than not. I have a Honda mc and calipers on front so I have no complaints there but I'd really like a Brembo set up on the back after riding the 3 hunny. Has anyone put a Brembo on theirs? What's involved as far as machining a bracket? Is this an expense not worth visiting? If all else fails I'll at least go for an over-sized rear rotor. I seemed to be able to maneuver the tight and semi-tight stuff better with stronger rears as opposed to using 95% fronts for everything.

Thanks,

Tim

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Raise the level of your brake pedal. Really.

The super cheap brake pads at Rock Mountain are grabbier.

I brake slide all the time.

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Make sure your brake clevis is free of any slop, new pads, de-glaze your rotor and get a good bleed.

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I've done all the mods mentioned to my 06 yz 250 rear brakes. They really suck. The mods helped, btu I woudl try anythign else if possible.

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What about fitting an 01 caliper and caliper carrier to your bike? I think it should bolt right on and the brake pads are a good amount longer.

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What do you all not like about the yz brakes? I find there only seems to be an on or off. They just seem to lock up if I touch them, not much else in between.

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Better brake pads and SS line. The stock rubber line is mushy. The loose Yamaha clevis sucks compaired to the KTM rod end.

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What do you all not like about the yz brakes? I find there only seems to be an on or off. They just seem to lock up if I touch them, not much else in between.

Same complaint here..on or off with nothing in between.

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If all else fails I'll at least go for an over-sized rear rotor.

KTM rear rotors are smaller in dia that late model YZ rotors.

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Im curious as i have a blown husqvarna with brembos in the shed they were pretty good brakes if i remember rightly :smirk:

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KTM rear rotors are smaller in dia that late model YZ rotors.

If this is true, I think it goes a long way in explaining why there would be better modulation in the rear... A shorter lever arm would have a harder time locking up the rear.

I also struggle with my yz rear brake on really hard surfaces.

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If this is true, I think it goes a long way in explaining why there would be better modulation in the rear... A shorter lever arm would have a harder time locking up the rear.

I also struggle with my yz rear brake on really hard surfaces.

KTM has kept the same rear rotor diameter since at least 1990, concidently the smaller 88-97 yz250 rear rotors are the same dia as KTM.

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Same complaint here..on or off with nothing in between.

My KTMs were that way until i had the rotor pretty worn. My YZ is MUCH easier by comparision. :smirk: I have to stomp the pedal to brake slide.

Three easy fixes-

Run organic pads.

Bust the bleeder loose and give a TINY squirt of fluid then retighten. The little air bubble will give easier modulation. Yes i'm serious. I've done it on a couple of light switch braked bikes.

Take a file to your pads and make some cross cuts.

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After wearing out the stock rotor, I went to a solid rotor and brake is more progressive. Solid rotor seems to triple pad life. I use both EBC MXS and Red (don't recall the letters) depending on conditions. I have a KTM too. I think both are similar in the rear when using the solid disk. KTM is much better in the front.

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I have a 2005 525 and a 2001 yz 250 the yamaha breaks are better. The back on the 525 overheats (both the pad a roter is smaller). The 525 front is spongy and needs to be blead often. The yamaha works great all the time with no maintenance. I did do the 05 yamaha old honda style reroute of the front break line and improved the yamaha front alot.

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I ordered a Galfer rear wavy rotor and a Zeta clevis. Maybe this combination will improve the feel and modulation.

Tim

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The good clevis helps as the linkage has a lot of play in it. I did not notice anything from the Galfer wave rotor, though.

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The good clevis helps as the linkage has a lot of play in it. I did not notice anything from the Galfer wave rotor, though.

I wonder if the Moose solid rotor would have a noticeable improvement?

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I replaced the lines with the braided steel lines and found them to make a big difference. Absolutely crisper/sharper. I find them easier to modulate as well.

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