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Honda CRF-150R Throttle Response?

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What does it take to get rid of the off idle hesitation, dead spot that my 2007 CRF 150-R has. I have richened it up, I have increased the accelerator squirt. I would really like it to take the throttle off idle. Any suggestions? Mark

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Off idle hesitation is usually can be traced to a lean condition from pilot jet or fuel screw set wrong as in is too lean which is main reason why I have R&D Flex Jet (Remote Fuel Screw) or possable you have way too rich.

If the bike has stock pilot jet try getting the next size up that should help

It well know that CRF150R where way to lean when come out of factory.

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Have you done the AP o-ring mod?

Where do I find this Mod?? Anyone? Thanks in advance. :smirk:

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tie with either an o-ring or wire. I like the o-ring as it gives some stretch if something go bad. I belive the o-ring is a 3/16" ID with .060" dia thickness. Any size will work as long as it holds the arm to the lever without stretching when throttle is twisted.

If everything in the motor is good, the AP is responsiable for all the bogs. Before the AP can be adjusted the pilot and air screw needs to be correct!

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Off idle hesitation is usually can be traced to a lean condition from pilot jet or fuel screw set wrong as in is too lean which is main reason why I have R&D Flex Jet (Remote Fuel Screw) or possable you have way too rich.

If the bike has stock pilot jet try getting the next size up that should help

It well know that CRF150R where way to lean when come out of factory.

All bikes made in the last 10 years are lean and need to be jetted right from the crate. Many belive jetting is a "performance" mod and don't jet per riding conditions. These are the same peole wounder why my bike bogs, will not start easily and has poor performance.

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tie with either an o-ring or wire. I like the o-ring as it gives some stretch if something go bad. I belive the o-ring is a 3/16" ID with .060" dia thickness. Any size will work as long as it holds the arm to the lever without stretching when throttle is twisted.

Much appreciated. :smirk:

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All bikes made in the last 10 years are lean and need to be jetted right from the crate. Many belive jetting is a "performance" mod and don't jet per riding conditions. These are the same peole wounder why my bike bogs, will not start easily and has poor performance.

That depend on where you live at and min people didn't have any problem with the way it was but some of us had re-jet I know I use to live in ohio but move oklahoma and end up having to re-jet the my bike and boh of my atv as well.

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tie with either an o-ring or wire. I like the o-ring as it gives some stretch if something go bad. I belive the o-ring is a 3/16" ID with .060" dia thickness. Any size will work as long as it holds the arm to the lever without stretching when throttle is twisted.

If everything in the motor is good, the AP is responsiable for all the bogs. Before the AP can be adjusted the pilot and air screw needs to be correct!

A better way to go is from R&D there A/C Pump Linkage Spring and with adjustable Leak Jet with use of the R&D Power Pump 2 that help.

When I did my bike I spring for R&D Power Bowl 2 with option Accelerator Pump Filter, Flex-Jet (Remote Fuel Screw), A/C Pump Linkage Spring and Diaphragm, Diaphragm Spring.

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Yep! I have the QS3 whitch in design is the same without the bowl. I perfer the external adjustment and when needed a quick turn and done. I should have went with the flex jet vs. knob.

Ohio to Oklahoma, I guess you took care of the "O" states!

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