whoops did it again!

So what does someone think the problem could be? I have an 06 drz 400 sm. Pretty much since I bought this machine I have had a problem with hitting whoops or jumps. The bike does great everywhere except with the constant up and down. I hit three or four whoops and go to grab the gas and it falls on its face almost myself on some kickers as well. Loses fuel is what it feels like, and then as soon as I can get smooth everything goes back to normal. Anyone have this problem? Suggestions on a fix would be great hopefully with not buying anything to outrageous budget is low! 1 thought was the lock gas cap not breathing right. Thanks for any comments you might have. -N-

is it the side stand switch ?

No that was one of first things I thought of rigged it so I was able to eliminate that and the problem continued

Low float level perhaps?

How did you eliminate the side stand switch? Unplug it up under the seat and connect the 2 wires in the connector good enough that they can't bump loose.

Do you still have the smog canister on the bike? If yes then go to the FAQ and find the post on how to remove it, that could be part of the problem if it has raw fuel in it or if you have removed it and a vent line is plugged it could do the same thing.

Doublecheck you side stand re-wire like others have said cause that is exactly what it sounds like.

Did some one remove the slosh cup from the main jet thinking it was not needed?

what is the slosh cup? I will disconnect the switch when i tryed to make sure it wasnt the switch I taped ti up with zip tie as well hoaky I now I will try the pro way. As far as the float level is that even adjustable?

what is the slosh cup? I will disconnect the switch when i tryed to make sure it wasnt the switch I taped ti up with zip tie as well hoaky I now I will try the pro way. As far as the float level is that even adjustable?

The sloch baffle is a small plastic cup that sits over the main jet and it needs to be there. What I did was just what they say to do on the safety switch, cut it about 2" just past the plug, leaving the plug on the harness, and solder the wires together and tape them up and your done.

If all you did was zip tie the switch in the up position try this test, cut the ties and put the bike on a stand and with it running and in gear move the side stand down and it will kill the engine. Then after the mod it won't kill the engine any longer. That help?

thanks bro the help is awesome.

Found the float adjustment settings in the manual, the spec is 13mm+- 1mm.

You check it by turning the carb upside down and measure from the carb bowl face to the top (which is really the bottom since the carb is upside down) of the float.

Another thing I found when I first got my DRZ400E was that the ignition switch would play up and would somtimes cut out on the trail. I pulled the ignition switch apart and found a lot of carbon tracking on the switch contacts. I cleaned them up and re-assembled the switch and the problem went away. Might be what's happening to you. Only takes a few minutes to pull the switch apart, just don't lose the springs and ball bearings inside :smirk:

Hope this helps.

Cheers.

you are also dealing with the problem of the vacuum slide carburetor. Not sure what carb you have, but most of the street model DRZs have a vacuum slide. that means there is not a direct connection between the throttle cable and the slide, as you normally have on a dirt bike carb. Instead, engine vacuum actually pulls the slide up. When you get into the whoops, the severe up and down motion can actually cause the slide to move up or down, which interferes with performance. the only fix is replace the carb with a non vaccum slide carb, like the Keihen FCR that is so popular here.

Edited by bcs
I can't keep my carbs straight, but npm helped me sort it out--thanks!
......the only fix is replace the carb with a non vaccum slide carb, like the mikuni that is so popular here.

I think you meant to say Keihen FCR or FCR-MX.

Found the float adjustment settings in the manual, the spec is 13mm+- 1mm.

You check it by turning the carb upside down and measure from the carb bowl face to the top (which is really the bottom since the carb is upside down) of the float.

Cheers.

Don't check the float level with the carb upside down. The weight of the floats will compress the spring in the float needle and throw off your measurement. Lay the carb sideways. Take the measurement when the needle is just closed without any pressure on it.

I have the vacuum actuated carb and it moving with bumps makes sense I will check float and go from there

I have the vacuum actuated carb and it moving with bumps makes sense I will check float and go from there

I have the same carb on my bike with zero issues over whoops so I don't think that the silde is the issue. Unless the spring is missing of course. Could be the float level, too much or too little fuel will cause it to bog on you.

Have you re-checked the kick stand safety switch bypass?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now