96 xr200r timing chain

I did a search here, there is a lot of info on the 200, but I'm hoping this is an easy question.

There was a top end rebuild. Cam and bushing, valves. Piston/rings.

An off duty (Bike) mechanic double checked my work. Valve adjustment ok. Valves not hitting. Valves were lapped and he said they looked excellent. Timing is fine, bike is running fine.

Problem? Timing chain is noisy. Really pretty noticable.

It seemed loose (not enough to jump a tooth) when we put the spark advance gear back on. But we assumed that after starting we could adjust the tension and take up the slack. We did adjust like the manual says.....but still get the apparent chain slapping. Adjustment appeared to have no effect on the noise. It's almost as if it is not adjusting at all.

My manual's pictures appear to show that it would be a fairly easy thing to pull off the left crank cover and be able to see if the tensioner is working. ??

Are they prone to wear? The tensioner.

Can they just be broken?

Is a slack/stretche chain more likely

Can you replace tensioner fairly easily for people with moderate skills (like can do a top end rebuild. Is it as easy as it looks...

Or is thi$ one just an item to take to the Honda $hop and have them do the once over ?


The tensioner locking collars sometimes sticks. There is a spring that pushes the slider against the chain, and locking collars (#10) to hold the tension. The problem is if the adjuster is tightened too much the collars stick and won't release the pin (#6) when adjusting. Here is the fix:


The adjuster has two hex fittings; the top one is a 8mm cover bolt and the large one is the lock for the collars. Remove the 8mm bolt (I think it is a 10mm wrench), then loosen the big hex; insert a small Phillips screw driver or drift into the 8mm bolt hole and tap it with a hammer, this will loosen the pin from the locking collars and allow the spring to apply pressure to the slider. You can feel spring pressure on the pin when it is lose from the locking collars. Tighten the adjuster bolt.

Thankyou, I had not read that before. I will do exactly as you stated. Printed this off already.

/big help


im having the same issue, do you do this while it is running or while the engine is stopped?????

If you are going to do it the way Chuck is saying-you do NOT want to do it while the motor is running. After you get the locking collars unstuck it can then be adjusted while the motor is running.

The locking collars do get stuck sometimes.


Edited by Tx-Tom

Just got to this fix.

Just as the locking collars could stick #6 in the up position.... they can apparently get stuck in the down postition. I tried loosening the aforementioned adjuster bolts. And tapping down with a small phillips. Nothing moved. And it appeared very far down in position.

layed the bike over and pulled the left cover. Chain was slack, and the slider was way to the right. So without pulling the fly wheel I could stick a straight slot driver in the right side gap (where I could clearly see the pin all the way down). So I just put a little pressure to lift it .... and pop! The spring pops loose and the tension (#3) went on the chain.

So, good advise on it sticking. Just this time it was stuck down. I had to lift it from the gap beside the flywheel.

Thanks for sharing, hadn't thought that it could also stick at max slack!!

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