Is This a Possible Fix for a Clutch Hub?

As I mentioned in another post, I broke one of the stays that one of the 6 spring bolts screw into on the inner clutch sleeve (hub).

I put a both through the back of the stay. If I add some JB weld, and so the same to the say across from it to keep some balance, do you think it will work? Here is a pic from the back:

IMG-20110531-00048.jpg

As far as I know, most of the force will pull straight out on the stay and not side to side. Any reason why this wouldn't work?

I could round the head so that it fit into the recess better. I could slot the top so that I can tighten it up.

EDIT: I think this may be even better:

IMG-20110531-00049.jpg

From the inside, you can't tell it was broken:

IMG-20110531-00050.jpg

If I used red loctite, I don't know if I would even need any JB weld. I will need to cut the clutch bolt down a bit to compensate for the thread length of the fixer bolt, so only the weight of the bolt head would be extra. Like I said, I could put the same bolt head on the other side (or in all 6) to keep it balanced.

I am no mechanic (or I wouldn't have broken it in the first place), so I need advice on whether or not this will work.

Edited by Mr. C

its going to take the basket out of balance

its going to take the basket out of balance

Even if I do the same treatment to each stay? I know it won't be perfect, but it would come pretty close I think.

The balance certainly is a consideration.

What is the 3rd picture showing me?

Yes that should work. Myself I would spot face the area in the back of the hub so the bolt head has a nice surface and good contact area.

Remember the clutch spins a lot slower then the crank so balance is not a big consideration. I probably would not worry about it at all but your idea if a bolt on the other side is fine.

Once you shorten the spring retainer bolts, you will have a harder time starting the bolt. You will have to compress the spring some to start the bolt.

I missed how you broke it. Holding the hub? Just put it in 5th gear and use the rear brake. Torque wrench or breaker bar, not an impact wrench in gear.

Thanks for your input, Noble.

The third picture is showing how well the part fits together. The stay on the right is the broken one.

Yep. Holding the hub using a tool I thought would work. I didn't realize that it was putting pressure on the stay (until it snapped that is!!)

Funny thing is that I looked all over the place on how to hold the hub. It isn't until now, after it is broken, that I see the 5th gear with brake idea. I don't know why I didn't even think of that. Oh well. That is how you learn I guess.

Also, do you feel that red loctite is enough to hold it, or should I put some JB weld or something like that around the crack as well?

Thanks again.

That's the kind of thing that would make me buy a new hinson clutch basket . I hate modifying my bike. Lol

If you are intent on fixing this, why not just weld the stay in place?

1:it is an interesting idea for a fix, and it should work.

2: me? It would be a temp fix till I bought a new clutch hub.

3: I second the idea of having it tig'ed back on....still would buy another one.

4: while 5th gear, front wheel against a wall, rear brake on work in most cases for locking the trans up, needs like this or countershaft nut, or?... For holding the clutch hub buying the right tool or making one from an old driven clutch disk is a lot easer to use, with much less possibility of damage

Buying the Motion Pro tool is the best thing. Oddly, it is possibly one of thier least expensive tools at onlu about $25

Holds almost any clutch hub, CS sprocket, a lot of flywheels from turning. I have used it to make bends in sheet metal too.

I have never been a fan of putting all that torque through the trans. Right tool to do the job.

Thanks for all the comments.

I should have mentioned that this will ordering a new hub, but I need my bike in the mean time.

I don't have access to any welding equipment, and since this is a temp. fix, I figure this will hold it.

Hobbyman: Hinson clutch, eh? Quick...someone hide my wallet!

Also, yes, the right tool for the job is always the best way. Using the proper tool would have saved me $100 or more and a time delay. :smirk:

Look at a wiesco if going new aftermarket.....

I have seen the Vise Grip pliers type clutch holders break clutch hubs. Using an old clutch plate to make a tool works well. There is no hazard to using in gear with the rear brake when the motor is on the frame. Torque on the nut is not that much (50 ft lb) and 5th gear is an overdrive ratio. Engine torque multiplied by the primary ratio is probably more than the nut takes.

You have limited assess for welding. If I was going to weld I, would make a whole new stand-off with a head on it welded in from the back side. Would not be hard to do with access to a machine shop.

I am assuming I can remove the hub by removing the round clutch cover only and not the entire side case. Is this correct?

I don't want to buy another side case gasket!

Yup, the center hub can easily be removed with just the derby off and the correct tools. You do have to (should) remove the brake pedal though.

It is not possible to properly torque the center nut using the trans to hold it. I strongly rec. against using it to hold the engine from rotating unless it is an emergency.

Seriously Ralph? I have been using the tool for over thirty years and never even marred a hub. The tool can only break the hub if used improperly, just like any other tool. Holding the hub with the trans is far from the correct way.

Haha, i just went through this with mine and ended up replacing the hub.

FYI, DRZ's can run with 5 out of 6 clutch springs!

William, why do you say it is impossible to torque to spec while holding the hub with the transmission? I got mine right to 50 ft-lbs the other day using that method? Had my girlfriend put all of her 95 lbs into the brake.

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