Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Fork seals

Recommended Posts

Can someone tell me what is involved in changing the fork seals on an 00 KX80? I am fairly good mechanically but have never had to change the fork seal ( or service forks always paid to have it done!) before. Thanks I would appreciate any assistance you can give! Thanks again

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had an older fork (1991). The bolt that holds the top tube/valving to the lower tube unscrews from the bottom of lower tube. Inside is the head/nut that has a hex shape taper. If everything is clean and not cross-threaded, you can take apart easy without any special tools. If needed used a rubber cork and wedged in to stop it from turning and remove the bolt. Afterwards I made a mating tool so I could reassemble the fork otherwise you will not be able to tighten it.

Fork comes apart in the seal area the same as others. Dust seals/wipers, ring clip, seal, washer, bearing,,,, You may not need to take apart the fork if you use a screw to rip the seal out. Just dont cratch the tube.

Edited by weantright

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

it's very simple but the tricky part is having the correct tools. Mainly the seal driver and most importantly, the service manual. The manual will tell you step-by-step and give you all the specs. As for the driver, talk to some local folks, they may have one you could borrow. I think they are 38mm. Can't remember.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Seal drivers are for the shops. You can use PVP pipe, old seal or just push in. I have done alot of forks and never had a problem pushing in seals. Now getting the seal over the threaded top tube, seal bullet would be nice.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bullets are like $5 or something at Motosport. You can use tape, plastic bag or an old rubber. :ride: You'll need to lube the tape and the plastic bag though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

sooner or later i am replacing my 97 kx100 fork seals but what i am stuck on is rebuilding the top end i am trying to find top end gasket kit and rings so far i found a gasket kit for 28.85 and 27.99 i am trying to find rings but not having that much luck

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just throw some duct tape over the top and make sure it covers the indented ring where the top bushing sits as well. Throw a little grease on them, and on they go. Use PVC pipe, unless your doing them all the time the driver isnt worth it to me anyways.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Seal drivers are for the shops. You can use PVP pipe, old seal or just push in. I have done alot of forks and never had a problem pushing in seals. Now getting the seal over the threaded top tube, seal bullet would be nice.

i disagree, nothing beats a real seal driver, although yes its possible without one. but i have a lathe and make my own.

P5020004.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For anyone who says a real seal driver is not needed, you really should actually try one. I think you will find it is so much better.

Great job on the seal driver, hi_im_sean!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By jace kornegay
      I have a problem with my stage 2 exhaust cam on my rmz whenever I kick it over the exhaust cam likes to stop at the lift unless I put it at tdc or kick it really slow it runs fine when it starts and I have played around with the shims right now all the valves are shimed and I have checked the timing everything’s to spec it just gets stuck at the exhuast I’m pretty sure it’s something to do with too much compression I probally will end upbuying stock cams but wanted to see if anyone knows how to fix this first
    • By frontline510
      I recently acquired a 1990 KDX200. The bike runs reasonably well for it's age. The first ride over 30 min the gearbox oil started overflowing into the airbox (overflow hose is routed to airbox). The oil that overflowed and the oil in the gearbox are an odd shade of dark forest green. The oil appeared to be overfilled slightly which explains the overflow. What I don't understand is the weird dark blueish greenish gray color of the oil.  I believe the PO used motul 10w40 ester gearbox oil because he gave me a half used gallon. I use Motul 710 2t oil which is blue, and run green coolant in the radiator. I drained the gearbox oil and there was a nice little clump of dark gray metalic paste on the magnetic drain plug, which should explain the gray hue. What I do not understand is the greenish blue hue. Anyone know what in the heck is going on with this old horse?
      The pic shows a sample of my drained oil. When held up to the light it turns more of a green color. Oil still feels slick as can be.

    • By 2strokeKyle
      I am wondering how a kx125 will do at at Glaims. I am 14 years old 5 foot 4 inches  and 100 pounds. I will have a paddle tyre in the back too. 
       
    • By Snox90
      will a clutch basket from a 98kx250 fit a 96kx250? How about the carb also?
    • By Kaelan Frost
      I have a new cylinder that i bought to rebuild my 1993 kawasaki kx250 with, because the old cylinder was destroyed. The guy said the cylinder is overbored a little but never gave us numbers. The new one i bought came with a piston thats been used and i would like to replace. I believe the piston that came with the cylinder is the correct size, but it very well could be off and i have no way of knowing. So how do i properly measure the cylinder bore, and how do i use this measurement to find what size piston I need to get?
       
      thanks,
      Kaelan
×