Rekluse clutch downhill

I know the Rekluse gets rave reviews from almost everyone, and I think it sounds like a good set-up. I only have one concern: I ride alot of single tarck stuff, much of it with steep ups and downs. I rely on engine braking coming down rather than simply pulling in the clutch and riding the brakes(I actually slip the clutch as well). So if I am idling down the hill with the Rekluse, it is going to be dis-engaged, correct? So I would have to ride the brake anyway, right?

depends on how you set it up, and which clutch your talking about

on my rekluse pro and my revloc dynaring both are setup so I have engine braking from a dead stop, mine drags the clutch at idle, so as soon as your moving on a downhill it's engaged, I use the engine to slow me down, just like before I had the autoclutch. On my 2 stroke I dont notice it at all, on my 4 stroke it makes it more 2 stroke like, it softens the engine braking at lower rpm where the 4 stroke really wants to slow down

it will not let you engine brake/bumpstart with a dead engine, that's the only time mine freewheel

you would be faster and safer if you stopped relying on engine braking and learned to use your rear brake. It made a ginormous difference in my riding. I was forced to do it when I got a 2stroke, and within a couple weeks i was going faster, in more control and washing out the front much less often.

if you insist on not learning to brake tho, megadeth's explanation is a good one.

some bikes it's hard to modulate the rear, my ktm 200 it's like a light switch on/off

I take a hack saw and slice a channel down the center of the pad, that removes enough pad to make it easier to use the thing

Its not that I dont know how to use the brake; after all, I have been riding since I was 3 like Megadeth(just kidding-saw that in one of the posts the other day). I have been riding for a long time, and I started out on the old 2-strokes(CR480 was modern then). Part of the beauty of 4-strokes is the engine braking. In the terrain I ride, I am much better on a 4 than a 2. I agree with Mega, setting it up to drag is probably the way to go for me. I just dont want to shell out 650+ and be dissappointed.

650 is the full core exp hubs and all

try the cheaper 400 $ one

You can set up the EXP to engage just be blipping the throttle. It will not disengage as long as there is engine braking.

you can set it up to drag too like the pro cant you?

when my bike idles the back wheel pulses, it wont move the bike off the kickstand but you know it's in gear, I have to use the lever to find neutral

it will not let you engine brake/bumpstart with a dead engine, that's the only time mine freewheel

On a 2 or 4 stroke?

If I had one installed on my XR, I don't see why it wouldn't do a rolling bumpstart using the manual decomp.

On a 2 or 4 stroke?

If I had one installed on my XR, I don't see why it wouldn't do a rolling bumpstart using the manual decomp.

both mine are setup the same, it wont let me roll bumpstart, there's enough grab when it's running to engine brake from idle, but not when it's shut off

on my dynaring I can dial it out and bumpstart

you can set it up to drag too like the pro cant you?

when my bike idles the back wheel pulses, it wont move the bike off the kickstand but you know it's in gear, I have to use the lever to find neutral

Yeah, it does that. The EXP you can dial in just how you like it or change it on the fly. I like some drag, so the clutch engages early and often.

both mine are setup the same, it wont let me roll bumpstart, there's enough grab when it's running to engine brake from idle, but not when it's shut off

on my dynaring I can dial it out and bumpstart

Granted, I'm thinking of how the Centrifugal/ball bearing design works. I haven't seen the design specs of the Dynaring.

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