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Clutch Cover Problem

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Hi guys, I'm having a problem that I was hoping you could help me with.

I discovered that my clutch cover had cracked around the hole for the kickstart shaft, so I ordered a replacement and have been trying to install it.

When lightly tightened down the cover doesn't allow the kickstart to return to it's original position after being pushed through the 30 degrees-or-so where it isn't engaging the starter gear. Back it off a hair and it will slowly return to the starting point, back it off a little more and it will snap back as it normally should.

Everything inside looks normal, the small washer on the kickstart shaft is in place, the bent wire thingy above the shaft is aligned right and doing its job... I'm officially stumped.

Any ideas?

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Is the water pump pin fully inserted into the Primary gear slot. Check it real good. You can sometimes be tricked into thinking its OK as the side case can flex around it on that end, but may cause the other end to be slightly off and bind with the KS shaft. Something is not letting the cover sit square to the case. (you do have a gasket in there right?)

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The bike is a 20003 Gas Gas pro, by the way. Just realized I never mentioned that anywhere in my first post.

Trebor, when I first tried it, I didn't get far enough to get the water pump on. I only had the whole cover fitted loosely, with one bolt just more than finger tight (I was turning it in by hand with a socket). I now have the cover and water pump fully on and tightened, and it does the same thing. The more I play with it though, the free-er it gets. Just from wiggling forwards and backward a bit in the zone that rotates freely it's almost back to normal.

Could it be the washer on the kickshaft? I noticed that it was very slightly cone shaped (as in the innermost edge had been pushed further out that the outer edge). The kickshaft also returns freely when this washer is left out, as I found out by mistake.

Could putting it back in the opposite way that it was in the last clutch cover cause some additional friction and pressure there that could be causing this?

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I think you need to figure out why your case cracked in the first place.

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and I thought calling the new Raga a 2012 was pushing model years :ride:

lol, it's a retro model. Looks very similar to a 2003 model, but with lots of scratches. :lol:

I put the crack down to years of kicking and general wear, since it's one of the few things on my bike that still hadn't broken since new. I'd also imagine that anything floating around in the transmission that's big enough to crack the side cover in its thickest part would have made itself noticed.

But maybe this isn't the best assumption... Is a crack around the kickstart an exceptionally rare thing?

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FWIW: Cracks around the KS area due to fatigue are definitely not a rare occurrence on older bikes and can require some creative welding or replacement.

If the washer is cone shaped, it could be causing a problem. I would try to flatten it back out or get a new one. Are you using a new Gasket? Was the KS binding on the old case? any wear on the inside next to the washer? Is the KS Shaft in good shape around the washer?

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I just had this problem putting my cover on when I replaced My kick shaft. Mine is a 08 pro. Anyway if it has the silver cone washer thingy that's your problem. Tap it onto the shaft. Basically the problem is the kick shaft isn't sitting all the way into the hole in the case. So when you operate the kicker it works fine but when you tighten the case bolts it causes it to bind. Follow?

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FWIW: Cracks around the KS area due to fatigue are definitely not a rare occurrence on older bikes and can require some creative welding or replacement.

If the washer is cone shaped, it could be causing a problem. I would try to flatten it back out or get a new one. Are you using a new Gasket? Was the KS binding on the old case? any wear on the inside next to the washer? Is the KS Shaft in good shape around the washer?

If that washer is a dark color( dont know if they are always dark, the ones I have seen are) it may be a 'bellville' washer which is similar to spring steel- it wont flatten- intended to always maintain tension.

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It "supposed" to be a reg flat washer G - although it sounds like he may now have a Bellville style...

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Thanks for all of the responses guys. I haven't been getting back to you but I've been going through all of these things.

Trebor- everything you mentioned is normal. New gasket, no prior problems, or unusual wear, etc.

Aloha- yes, I know what you mean and that's the same advice I got from a local Gas Gas guy. It doesn't appear if that's the case though. With the side cover mounted the smooth part of the kickstart shaft (where it can form a seal with the side cover and springy-o-ring) is only expose 1 or 2 mm. Any further in and there wouldn't be much of a seal.

I left everything tightened as normal for a couple days, and the kickstart is practically back to normal now. I turned the engine over by hand and heard nothing scary, so I started it up and everything was still fine. And after about a minute of running there was only VERY slight drag when it sprung back into place. So I guess I'm just gonna put this one down to a slightly deformed washer or a brand new side cover, sorta like how the oil fill plug had to be turned in and out a couple times to fully seat.

Onto brighter things, I stumbled across some Dot 5.1 at my local Autozone and decided to give that a try...

HOLY COW! Definitely not for the novice. It feels great, but the clutch is now more or less a light switch. I'd read on TC that it doesn't compress like Dot 5 does, but I was not expecting this much of a difference. There's less than half of the modulation that I had before, using some quite dirty old mineral oil. I'm gonna have to get a lot better with my clutch control, but man does the bike jump now! Where I left off last summer, I was having a lot of trouble getting height on splatters and zaps. Here's an example: http://www.youtube.com/user/newtowntractor#p/u/7/9Zsxn4YzG0U

Try as I might, I just couldn't get any more height, it just transfered to horizontal speed. I had started to think that my clutch was slipping a bit (since I'm running one of Jackscycle's LIPSE springs, and I understand that they're intended more for the smaller displacement bikes). I think now, it was just that my clutch was engaging too slowly to really be able to get the snap necessary for some of the things that I was attempting. If my first couple minutes in the yard is anything to go by, that's changed now. :ride:

PS. technique advice is always appreciated, this is one of the few clips of myself that I have.

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As the sea lion said - nothing like a nice tight seal....Glad there was nothing major wrong and it seems to be working out OK. Its never as great feeling when things aren't perfect from the get go - especially after your prior problems.

Interesting feedback on the 5.1 - good to know. I know a few guys who may like that feature. Good to know the spring isnt slipping. You never know how hard some people can load the clutch. Nice form on the video. :ride: Looks like you were sticking the rear tire on the rock face and not spinning like the others.

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..........

I was having a lot of trouble getting height on splatters and zaps. Here's an example: http://www.youtube.com/user/newtowntractor#p/u/7/9Zsxn4YzG0U

.........

Splatter tips are a little beyond my scope when it comes to teaching, but from what I saw, it looks like a little late on the body part of the jump and maybe a little light.. Not much rear end compression at the lift-off spot... But better than I can do 'cause I don't even try to practice them. :ride:

..but I like the smooth slow motion edit... Is that the editor that makes it that smooth or was that shot on a high speed camera setting like maybe 120 FPS for play-back at 30?

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I watched the videos several times. Really help a rookie like me to see what's going on.

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