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ATF in tranny questions

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Wondering if using ATF in tranny is better or is it a KTM thing? I have an 03' CRF450, been using since new Amsoils 10w-40, 20w-50, or gear oil 75-80w. Getting reading to install a new clutch next week, I wear then out because I'm a big guy and trail, dualsport my bike. Do you guys use regular atf or synthetic atf? Thanks

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lotta guys swear by it, it handles heat better and shouldnt glaze up the plates if that's what you have been having problems with

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show me a professional motor builder that uses ATF in all his motors, and i would someday be convinced this is a good idea. till then, I will continue using "OIL".. :ride:

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local builder here is who got me using it, lots of people use it, there's tons of threads documenting it's use on here and crfsonly

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local builder here is who got me using it, lots of people use it, there's tons of threads documenting it's use on here and crfsonly

slightly swayed MD, :ride: but not fully. Just don't see the need with the easy availabilty to good oils like Rotella (even Recluse recomends Rotella if your having issues).

IF there was some DISTINCT advantage to AFT, im pretty sure more riders/racers would use it. But it isn't even less expensive, so why? There must be no real harm though.. so will be one of those personal things like what to "lube" a chain with. :lol:

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there are 3 advantages, but the OP has a clutch burn problem, so probably only interested in one

it shifts better for most bikes

it wont glaze on plates like standard oil, it's made for high heat wet clutch, if the OP is glazing the plates and having them slip, atf may be the cure

it's cheap, something like 1-2 $ per oil change

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there are 3 advantages, but the OP has a clutch burn problem, so probably only interested in one

it shifts better for most bikes

it wont glaze on plates like standard oil, it's made for high heat wet clutch, if the OP is glazing the plates and having them slip, atf may be the cure

it's cheap, something like 1-2 $ per oil change

what brand do you run?

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I run rotella T6 in everything now, car/mower/truck/bikes both sides

if I was burning up clutches I would use atf again, Amsoil syn ATF or any of the syns really should do it

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I run Valvoline MaxLife, partially because I've got a case seal leak, and since this is a "high mileage" oil, it has seal swellers that slow down the leak. '99 KDX200, in this case.

The clutch works perfectly, and the bike shifts perfectly also.

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I prefer to use a true gear oil over ATF or even motor oil; hence I have used Bel-Ray Gear saver since the '80s in all bikes that have seperate gearbox oil.

ATF was used a lot in the '70s when gear oils weren't around and bikes used motor oil. The ATF helped the clutches and shifting on the old bikes.

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even newer oils will still glaze onto the plates and slip, atf is still the best for that afaik

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there are 3 advantages, but the OP has a clutch burn problem, so probably only interested in one

it shifts better for most bikes

it wont glaze on plates like standard oil, it's made for high heat wet clutch, if the OP is glazing the plates and having them slip, atf may be the cure

it's cheap, something like 1-2 $ per oil change

have at it, but i think your making a generalized and fairly unsubstantiated statement saying it "shifts better" and "won't glaze like oil"..

If i ever have shifting issues, glaze a clutch, or for some reason find decent oil has an issue i may try it. And sure, you can find some cheap ATF for $2/qt, but it wouldn't be my choice.. but then for all i know, the $2/qt stuff is just like the $5-10/qt stuff (but highly doubt it)

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have at it. If i ever have shifting issues, glaze a clutch, or for some reason find decent oil has an issue i may try it. And sure, you can find some cheap ATF for $2/qt, but it wouldn't be my choice.. but then for all i know, the $2/qt stuff is just like the $5-10/qt stuff (but highly doubt it)

I think you need to read the OP's post as to why he's asking about atf

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ATF was used a lot in the '70s when gear oils weren't around and bikes used motor oil. The ATF helped the clutches and shifting on the old bikes.

Uhh, gear oils have been around for over 100 years.

Anyhoo, to the OP, Providing it strictly for trans and not motor, ATF Type F is what you want. It has less detergents than Dex III or above. As for pro builders using it, well, most stick by a Name. But if you were to test Motorex trans oil to Type F, Guess what??? same/same.

There's nothing wrong with alot of oils nowadays, as long as it's MC specific. I have all 2 strokes and have run ATF Type F since 1974, never had an issue. Always changed religiously every 8-10 hrs ride time.

As a matter of fact, here's proof (read captions)

36micfrictionplate.jpg

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Uhh, gear oils have been around for over 100 years.

Anyhoo, to the OP, Providing it strictly for trans and not motor, ATF Type F is what you want. It has less detergents than Dex III or above. As for pro builders using it, well, most stick by a Name. But if you were to test Motorex trans oil to Type F, Guess what??? same/same.

There's nothing wrong with alot of oils nowadays, as long as it's MC specific. I have all 2 strokes and have run ATF Type F since 1974, never had an issue. Always changed religiously every 8-10 hrs ride time.

As a matter of fact, here's proof (read captions)

36micfrictionplate.jpg

I run it in all my GasGas bikes, pamp 280, ec 200, txt200, txt 280 pro.. they love it, its cheap, etc. I trail ride all these bikes in the gnarliest stuff you can find, slipping the clutch constantly, yet never had clutch or tranny issues using ATF Type F..

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I think you need to read the OP's post as to why he's asking about atf

i would like to know exaclty what oil he HAS been runing. It is possible he's running a moly oil in both sides, and the clutch is slipping, it could be as simple as not having enough cable play too. That could smoke a clutch in one ride.. or just his riding style is contributing to short clutch life. How about weak out of service limit clutch springs? LOTS of possibilities that just a quick change to some other fluid ain't gonna fix!

im not saying DON'T use ATF, im saying for every rider that swears ATF gives additonal clutch life, there will be as many or more that swear oil does the same. And if it were such an issue, why are yamaha 450's and others that share trans/engine oil having more issues than those that you can seperate?? And same goes for todays roadrace bikes with slipper clutches? I'm getting over a season from clutches and that is doing 5-7 starts a given roadrace weekend (5 sprint races, with a couple restarts for red flags thrown in..). Plates still spec out about 3mm after 10-11 race weekends.

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Like I had stated in the beginning, I use Amsoil either 10w-40 or 20w-50 or gear oil 75w-80. I tried Motorex in both engine and trans, trans shifted alot harder. I mean I'm prbably rough on clutch plates for being a big guy. Mine isn't slipping nor have I ever had a slipping problem. I'm going to be intalling new plates and springs next week and was wondering if a added benefict to heat from trail riding and also easier starting in gear. I last did plates and springs in spring of 08' and that was the original one. At that time the alloy plates where blued and fibers pretty worn, or really uneven wear, but never slipped, just the clutch lever grabbed at the end with not much feel just like this time. thanks for everyone's input.

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I'm 225 in gear and I've never had to replace clutch plates ever, my 200 has probably 400 hours on it's clutch, that blueing your seeing is the oil burning into them

I would try atf and see if they last longer for you, the atf will resist burning in

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